Author Topic: "Hard" chain link problem?  (Read 1090 times)

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Offline John Mc

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2013, 09:36:16 am »
This chain had 3 or 4 teeth hardened.  I tried multiple times with the file I had been using with no luck.  Pulled out a brand new Pferd file, still no luck.  Both files subsequently did OK on another tooth in the same chain.

I know a grinder would probably do it, but I don't fancy bringing it back in for that, since that's probably what caused the problem in the first place.

John Mc

Offline brokenbudget

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2013, 09:49:07 am »
hit those teeth with the dremmel a bit to get rid of the surface.
when I grow up, i wanna be an adult.

Offline John Mc

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2013, 10:06:23 am »
hit those teeth with the dremmel a bit to get rid of the surface.

Now WHY didn't I think of that?  I forgot I even owned one.  It might even be worth picking up the appropriate sized bit for the dremel...

Offline Al Smith

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2013, 07:23:26 pm »
Whatever that brand of files that Baileys sells has a finely toothed surface which I have found works better for me on hard chain like Stihl .It's not as agressive as say Pferd files .

Offline John Mc

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2013, 12:14:31 pm »
I had been using Oregon files.  Just started the box of Pferd files a month or so ago.  I thought I'd also try some of the Save Edge files next time around.

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2013, 12:40:13 am »
I have the first Carlton chain that I bought in 20 years on my workbench that I bought from Bailey's last fall, and it has one cutter that is as hard as heck right out of the box.
Good luck removing the case hardened surface with a dremil, will only keep the cutter hard. Good idea if you want to remove foreign hard metal stuck in the gullet.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2013, 05:28:10 pm »
It's probabley not just case hardened .I'd imagine the whole cutter is hard .Well I suppose in some freak way just one cutter might have over heated while it was being ground and cased it a tad .

If they factory grind it like I assume it's done with coolant .Periodically the wheel needs dressed for two reasons .They get out of shape or they get loaded up .A loaded grinder wheel coolant or not will really drive heat into the steel .It's a form of tool steel and can it ever get hard .

Offline Philbert

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #17 on: October 04, 2013, 11:01:05 pm »
It's possible for a 'hard' link to come from the factory if they screw up in the heat treating process.  But most of the time they are the result of overheating or 'blueing' on the grinder.

Good news is that the cutters will still cut, and you can grind past this to make the cutters 'file-able' again.

Philbert

Offline sharkey

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #18 on: October 05, 2013, 04:18:51 pm »
A couple of years back I bought some loops of Sabre '880' 3/8 chain for a Homelite I was running.  I was intrigued by the shape of the cutter because it isnt quite semi chisel nor is it full chisel.  It has an odd groove running down the side of the cutter.  Even though its new chain, its very hard and difficult to sharpen.  Thinking it was the chrome plating, I used it when in dirty wood.  The aggressive Save Edge files wont clean it up unless you push it.  If I can get a couple pics to come out, I will post them up.         

Offline Playinwood

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Re: "Hard" chain link problem?
« Reply #19 on: October 06, 2013, 01:06:07 pm »
Lesson learned..Carleton is crap and always has been,QA is not there strong suit.
Stihl is tough to file also but a good tooth. Oregon is the only chain worth a darn as far as I'm concerned. Stihl is better  but hard to file and is hard on files.
Lately Woodsman pro has a 73LGx tooth, which is the best, on a Carleton chassis, which is fine, already narrow if you want to race, for like 14 bucks or whatever a 20inch loop.
Ask before you buy though.

 

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