Author Topic: Anatomy of chainsaw chain  (Read 7152 times)

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #20 on: February 19, 2013, 01:08:28 pm »
I think I've got the book you are looking for, but it's too large to post here:  file 1.7 MB, and max allowed file size is 390K.

"Zip"-ing the file only gets it down to 1.6 MB

Any ideas?

John Mc

Idea you can just email him a copy.

or email it to me and I will see what I can do to post a link.  Let me know what you decide.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #21 on: February 19, 2013, 01:44:46 pm »
Already emailed it to him, as well as to someone else who said they'd get it on to you, Cut4Fun

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #22 on: February 19, 2013, 02:38:09 pm »
I got it and sent a copy to cut4fun   -THNX
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

Offline John Mc

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2013, 02:44:23 pm »
Great... I didn't know what username that email address belonged to.

Offline doreadeal

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #24 on: December 19, 2013, 08:57:47 am »
Wow, I had no idea. I assumed like many that each tooth just did a continuous cut. This explains why you don't end up with long chips I guess. I'd love to know what process led to this design. Was it intended, or was it a series of mistakes and trying new things, and the dolphin effect was just what happened when it finally worked?

Offline Philbert

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #25 on: December 19, 2013, 11:03:45 pm »
I believe that each cutter rocks back into the cut and stays in that posture until released at the end of the cut. I think of it like the iron sticking out of the base of a woodworking plane. If the depth gauges are too high, the cutters skip over the wood, even if sharp. If the depth gauges are too low, the cutters try to dig in too deep, and grab or stall.

When you are cutting across the grain (cross cutting/bucking AND ripping/milling) the chips break into little pieces as they curl into the gullets of the cutters.

When you are cutting with the teeth moving in the same direction as the grain ('noodling'), you get long, continuous curls ('noodles'), just as you would planing with the grain.

Philbert

Offline Gregg MacPherson

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #26 on: February 21, 2014, 01:29:21 am »
I didn't feel like signing up to Scribd either so I rummaged around and found this link to a free download of the Carlton Chain book.  Who actually has copyright? Don't Carlton want us all to have this? 
http://gepkolcsonzo.eu/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/complete-book.pdf

We could also upload this to the manuals section I supose,  if it's easier to find as a reference there..

Cheers,
Gregg

Offline brettl

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2015, 03:35:54 pm »
Hi guys. Is the Carlton book and the book mentioned that's been emailed around one in the same? I want to rad this but not on a smartphone screen. My email is bleinmiller@yahoo.com if someone would be kind enough to email it? I could have my folks print it and mail to me then. Thank you
Sthil Man. 011AV, 015, 020, 020, 024, 025, 026, 028 WB(2), 028AV, 028 Super, 029 Super(2), 039, 041, 192TC, 200T, 250, 260, 390, 440, 441

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #28 on: August 22, 2016, 12:37:27 pm »
Bump for person asking for info in first post. Shows the differences.

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: Anatomy of chainsaw chain
« Reply #29 on: September 25, 2016, 11:18:04 am »
The analogy of a dolphin swimming (leaping in & out of the waters surface), is how I picture the cutter "diving in & out of the cut".
Bump here too :)

Yes that's how the movement was always explained to understand the motion. But with only .025 clearance of the depth gauge it's so small.
Which leads to another part of the innovation of sawchain in the last 10 years...Oregon's AntiVibe or Stihl's Comfort cutter design.
By removing that small thickness of the heel of the cutter that contacts the bar...a shock absorber effect is made. Of course the opposite side link on the cutter doesn't have this clearance so the cutter can't "over rock". Only disadvantage is the chassis could  have a flex in it caused by the cutter having a slight side movement instability. Reason old school cutters without the clearance make the chain desirable for timbersport competition.

Does anyone own or have information on the Stihl .404 high tooth timbersport chain?
My question is did Stihl design it with the "Comfort" clearance or left it out and keep it old school for better speed performance ?


Making a living with a saw since age 16.
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