Author Topic: Chain breaker and spinner  (Read 975 times)

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #30 on: November 14, 2013, 01:30:23 pm »




It has .058 drive links thinned down to .050. Oregon 3/8 Low Pro drive links are straight .050. Nothing else I have fits.



Thanks!

Philbert



Thanks for sharing that info.   I never paid attention to this stuff like that till here recently.
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Online Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #31 on: November 14, 2013, 02:15:13 pm »
A lot of chain, including some Oregon and STIHL models, use a thicker drive link (.063, or .058) that is thinned down to fit in narrower gauge bars.

This is why, for example, you can use the same pre-sets for many Oregon .050 or .058 chains.  Not usually a problem.

For this 3/8 low profile chain (similar to type 91), Oregon doesn't make a thicker gauge version, so the pre-sets were only made to fit .050 chain.  Oregon does make a thinner version (type 90, .043 gauge), and I see that Bailey's stocks separate pre-sets for those.

The Carlton N2C chain was also 3/8 low profile, .058, but is not listed in the current catalog.  Fortunately, my local dealer has been in business for many years and has an eclectic stock of parts. 

Philbert

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #32 on: November 14, 2013, 02:34:40 pm »
Speaking of Breakers, Spinners, presets, and tie straps

When you start to buy Stihl presets, they make no mention of the gauge (.050,.058,&.063) I was visiting Cut4fun this afternoon and I brought this up. So we got some Stihl RS33 off the nail and measured the thickness of the drivers. They were .050" where they run though the bar rails BUT were .063" between the tie straps.

In the Internet link supplied in the post earlier about Oregon presets, I noticed the preset numbers were the same for .050" & .058" with a different preset number for the "75" chain. Cut4fun measured some Oregon LGX72 chain and it was .050" where the driver runs through the bar rails but .058" between the tie straps.

With the presets, there is a shoulder where the driver link rides on the rivet. It is a larger diameter than where the rivet goes through the tie strap. The length of this shoulder has to be the same as the thickness of the driver link within the body of the chain itself.

With Oregon chain if you use a .050" preset on .063" gauge chain, it will bind up and be stiff because the shoulder is not long enough. With Oregon, .050" gauge presets will work fine on .058" chain. But .063" presets on .050" chain will be sloppy.

Cut4fun had mentioned years ago that Oregon presets would not work on Stihl chain because the joint would bind. That is because his Oregon presets were for Oregon .050" chain and they had a .058" shoulder on the rivet. Where as Stihl 3/8 chain has drivers that are all .063 thick between the tie straps.

The moral to this story is that Oregon presets for .050" gauge 3/8 chain will mostly work with Oregon .058" gauge chain.

With Stihl 3/8 presets, one size fits all three RS gauges (.050", .058", & .063")

What counts is the thickness of the driver links up inside the chain.

Here is when I started catching on to this stuff.  I was way late to figure out what was going on.
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Online Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #33 on: November 14, 2013, 08:46:18 pm »
Quote
Cut4fun had mentioned years ago that Oregon presets would not work on Stihl chain because the joint would bind

STIHL is another story.  Even if the pitch and gauge of a pre-set fits, the diameter of the rivets may not match the holes in the drive links or tie straps.  Different manufacturers have different specs.   I have seen guys try to drill these holes larger to try and make something fit.

And there are even different versions of some Oregon 1/2 pitch pre-sets that are not compatible!

That is why I mentioned earlier that as long as you are running a few types of current model chains, it is usually not a problem.  Once you start to get into new and old chains from different manufacturers, it can become quite a challenge.

Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #34 on: November 14, 2013, 10:59:41 pm »
The moral to this story is to keep your chain selection simple so that you can have presets and straps for everything?

Your odd ball stuff is a candidate to go out with the next saw you sell off?
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
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Online Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #35 on: November 14, 2013, 11:40:31 pm »
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Your odd ball stuff is a candidate to go out with the next saw you sell off?

Or an excuse to fraternize with other oddballs who share your interests  .  .  .

Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #36 on: November 14, 2013, 11:45:42 pm »
I have a few semi chisel safety chains. I sharpen - tune them up well and use then. They all came on some used saw I purchased. They do OK but I would never buy a new "green" chain.
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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #37 on: November 14, 2013, 11:48:34 pm »
I have a few semi chisel safety chains. I sharpen - tune them up well and use then. They all came on some used saw I purchased. They do OK but I would never buy a new "green" chain.

That is exactly what I do also.
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Online Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #38 on: September 11, 2014, 01:09:42 pm »
Bumping up this thread 'cuz we were getting on this topic in an another thread: http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chain/i-think-my-chain-is-screwed-any-tips-are-greatly-appreciated/

Regarding the pre-sets: sometimes you can switch between brands and sometimes you can't.  I got some Windsor pre-sets only (no tie straps) and figured that I scored for Oregon chain.  Turns out the rivet diameter is fine, but the rivet spacing is just a hair off.  I can fit the Windsor pre-sets in the Oregon chain, but not into the Oregon tie straps.  To use them, I will need to drive the pre-set rivets out of another Windsor pre-set, making it into a tie strap (everybody follow, or should I wait for folks to catch up?).  I have done this before, but back to my original comment: 'sometimes you can and sometimes you can't'.

I know that you can do 'field repairs' by grinding a rivet head off and peening over the head of a new one, but I much prefer a spun rivet that looks as close to factory/OEM as possible.  May not actually last longer, but gives me confidence.  I have seen many 'creative' field repairs on chains that need re-work, including: mixed chain/cutter types; upside down/inside out tie straps; 3/8 tie straps used on 3/8 low profile chain; rivets held on by a fingernail of spread; etc.  'My favorite' was the Pop rivet.

Again, to me, a good spinner/breaker set was very empowering.  It has really helped me understand chains more, and let me save a lot of money by repairing/resizing/salvaging usable chains.

Philbert

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Re: Chain breaker and spinner
« Reply #39 on: September 11, 2014, 01:29:49 pm »
I bought a couple 60 DL loops of 3/8" Oregon "CL" square chain from Bailey's.

Now with this chain Bailey's doesn't sell factory loops but spin up custom loops at so much per Driver Link.

When I got the chains, the connecting links had the preset rivets spun over the tie straps with one of those Oregon Electric Spinners. The spinner insert bit was either worn out or the wrong size? The rivets were spun as flat as could be and mashed flat over the tie strap with ragged flashing all around the rivet. Not what you would expect for a so-called professional shop?

Shortly after then, I bought some loops from cut4fun as he had a roll of Oregon CL chain. His loops looked as professional as Oregon factory loops. I was impressed. 
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
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