Chainsaw Repair

One thing i dont like sharpening chain is the pink wheel picks up dirt, oil, grease, etc. off the chain easy. I have to clean it if it gets black lookin with the stone.

One of the key things I had to learn with the grinder was to dress the wheel regularly to keep bringing up fresh abrasive, and not just to shape the edge.  This helps it cut faster and reduces overheating (from rubbing dull grit against the cutter).

I always clean chains before I grind them.  I know that some guys think that I have OCD, etc.  But it lets me see what I am working with, if the chain has any damage, etc, and keeps the crud out of the grinding wheel.  Compressed air for fairly clean chains.  'SuperClean' (purple stuff with sodium hydroxide) for chains crusted in crud.

660magnum is correct - if you use a strong degreaser you need to rinse and dry your chain quickly to avoid rust.  I do 200 degrees for 10 minutes in the oven on an old cookie sheet to remove the moisture, then coat heavily with WD-40 (penetrates in-between the links and around the rivets better than viscous bar&chain oil).

Philbert

Learned something else today. Do not lift hand into grinding wheel while on. Makes a nice mark right on the ole knuckle.   

I have been trying the 'resinoid' grinding wheels recently, and comparing them to the standard 'vitrified' wheels (Oregon, Tecomec, Molemab, etc.) on my Oregon 511A grinder, based on some comments posted by others.

The resinoid wheels look like masonry or steel wheels used in cut off saws, angle grinders, etc.  The only ones I have found for this grinder are TOTAL brand wheels (TL64-R and TL66-R), which I ordered through a local shop from Tilton.  Cost was about the same as conventional wheels ($15-$20 each).   Also available on line from sharpchain.com.  Some resinoid wheels are, apparently, also available for Silvey grinders.

I tried them on several .325 and 3/8 STIHL chains.  My initial impressions were positive:
- much less likely to 'burn' a cutter, although, I was able to do this intentionally on some scrap chain;
- left less of a burr on the outside side plate of Left hand cutters, using a non-reversable grinder (not sure why, exactly);
- leaves an acceptable finish on the cutters, although, maybe not as smooth as the pink, vitrified wheels I was using;
- makes more dust.  I try to grind out doors, or in a garage with the door open, but this could be an issue in a small shop;
- has that same smell as the cut off wheels mentioned above.

I would encourage anyone having problems or concerns with 'burning' or 'bluing' cutters to try these - could be a low cost solution.

Philbert

Yes. They come with a square/flat edge, and I shaped them with the small dressing stone that came with my grinder.

I dress them periodically for shape, out of habit, but not sure if I need to dress them to expose fresh abrasive, as they are supposed to wear faster.

Have only done about a half dozen chains with them, so these are still early impressions.

Anybody have experience with them on a Silvey?

Philbert

Cool


I should be good to go on wheels for a long long time. I bought a bunch of Madsen's wheels with adapters for my USG.