Chainsaw Repair

5. Reassembly is the reverse. Slide the card all the way in to keep the little bearings from dropping through the rivet holes. It may help to pry apart the bar tip with a small screwdriver.

Once the sprocket is close, a little manipulation with a scratch awl helps align the other holes. Small nails can be used to hold things in place while setting the first rivets.

* For a STIHL bar with the side shims, I would either try to tie these in place with a very thin thread, or clean the shims and center disc with acetone and try a drop of SuperGlue to hold them in place.

7. Done! Lubed the bearings up with some light oil (3-in-One) to keep them happy until used.

Philbert

P.S. Next chaps demonstration will be with a hard nose (no sprocket) bar.

. . . where or what did you use to put under bar for pushing rivets through . . .

That nose sprocket anvil came with my WoodlandPro (Bailey's) spinner/breaker set, and fits into the base for alignment.  I did not think that I would use it at first (which is why I marked it - to remember what it was for!) but it has come in handy.  If you don't have one, I assume that you could drill a hole of the right size in a block of hardwood or metal, and line it up visually.

Philbert

Great posts Philbert. Thank you. When the weather gets hot and/or on relaxing evening at home, I'll fix mine using your well-illustrated posts. Thanks again to everyone who has posted.

I had bought one of those woodland pro sets ( 7 years ago give or take)  and didnt receive  that. Interesting.  Thanks.

I have one those sets from Baileys  and I believe the part for bar rivets came with it.   I have never used it though.