Author Topic: hand square filing  (Read 8920 times)

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #90 on: December 01, 2012, 02:41:44 pm »
My hardest challenge in sharpening square chain whether it be free hand, jig, or grinder, is keeping the corner of the file or wheel centered with the outside corner of the chain.

Before making a few chains square, I thought the big challenge would be keeping up with all the angles. eg,-  top outside taper, side outside lead, and interior angles all at one time.

With the ATOP jig and with the grinder, if you get the inside/outside corners aligned, everything else will take care of itself.
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #91 on: December 03, 2012, 06:45:25 am »
I usually start out with a work chain with the cutters worn back about half .Flat file all the round part out of the cutters then square it with a multi bevel file .

You know I can't do it all in one fell swoop .Danged fingers get so stiff I have to wait a few days in between steps until I get-er all done .

I think it's one of those activities a person probabley gets better at the longer it's done .Now a couple versions of a race type chain is  one thing but I can definetley understand why the west coasters use grinders .

Offline Miller-Thinner2

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #92 on: December 25, 2013, 04:57:35 pm »
I read in this thread about tunneling, what size file or type of file is used and is there any certain trick to it.

http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/RacingTechfacts_93099.pdf  tells me a little about it but not much. or is it just as it looks grab a small file and go at it lol but not to much ?

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #93 on: December 25, 2013, 05:12:21 pm »
Personally I didnt tunnel. But owned chains that were that were for real racing at events. 

I would get good at sharpening square chains first before searching for little things in the hundredths of difference JMO. Look for the tenths first in just sharpening the cutter 1st IMO.

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #94 on: December 27, 2013, 11:51:07 am »
Personally I didnt tunnel. But owned chains that were that were for real racing at events. 

I would get good at sharpening square chains first before searching for little things in the hundredths of difference JMO. Look for the tenths first in just sharpening the cutter 1st IMO.
I've taken advice from saw chain field engineers notably Gary Walrath from Oregon and he told me several times on a race chain there needs to be enough thickness  profile of cutter to clear the chips from the kerf. Too thin and chip flow goes downhill.
Its a balance of geometry to make everything work together, different diameter wood , species and moisture content all fall into the equation. Then after all that work getting everything just right to your ability...then comes the moment your up on stage at the log with all your peers watching you and with experience you will get stage presence and confidence needed to win.....a little good luck helps too. :D

 One tip I can share is the inside edges of the left and right top plates both cross the center line of the drive links by quite a bit. By filing both edges you reduce cutting edge width but don't take too much off .....you need enough cutting edge on both cutters to overlap the center line a tad allowing for sideways expansion of cutters in the kerf.
 
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Offline mdavlee .

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #95 on: December 27, 2013, 03:46:00 pm »
I guess you were talking about stoning the outside edge?  It does help to even all the teeth up and not have a tooth here or there pulling sideways on the chain as much. I did the tunneling with a Dremel and small wheels. Much faster than filing.

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #96 on: December 27, 2013, 08:48:56 pm »
I guess you were talking about stoning the outside edge?  It does help to even all the teeth up and not have a tooth here or there pulling sideways on the chain as much. I did the tunneling with a Dremel and small wheels. Much faster than filing.
No I meant the top plate's inside edge. Look straight down at your b/c and you can see the left and right cutters overlapping the center line of the chain. By filing these edges down you can narrow the width of the cutting edge reducing wasted friction and taking a narrower chip.
When you build a race chain some parts you have to file to get them spec on, a lot of mistakes can be made with a grinder.
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Offline mdavlee .

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #97 on: December 27, 2013, 09:19:55 pm »
Gotcha now. I had never thought about doing that.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #98 on: December 27, 2013, 09:30:22 pm »
You start measuring on a new chain out of the box and you will come across broader tolerances than would have thought.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
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Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: hand square filing
« Reply #99 on: January 02, 2014, 08:16:40 pm »
Personally I didnt tunnel. But owned chains that were that were for real racing at events. 

I would get good at sharpening square chains first before searching for little things in the hundredths of difference JMO. Look for the tenths first in just sharpening the cutter 1st IMO.
I've taken advice from saw chain field engineers notably Gary Walrath from Oregon and he told me several times on a race chain there needs to be enough thickness  profile of cutter to clear the chips from the kerf. Too thin and chip flow goes downhill.
Its a balance of geometry to make everything work together, different diameter wood , species and moisture content all fall into the equation. Then after all that work getting everything just right to your ability...then comes the moment your up on stage at the log with all your peers watching you and with experience you will get stage presence and confidence needed to win.....a little good luck helps too. :D

 One tip I can share is the inside edges of the left and right top plates both cross the center line of the drive links by quite a bit. By filing both edges you reduce cutting edge width but don't take too much off .....you need enough cutting edge on both cutters to overlap the center line a tad allowing for sideways expansion of cutters in the kerf.
 

That is a great tip, thanks for sharing that.
PP 505, 475, 445.

 

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