Author Topic: New Oregon Grinders  (Read 1023 times)

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Offline Philbert

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Re: New Oregon Grinders
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2015, 03:35:43 pm »
I picked up a pair of 520-120 grinders,  . . . this thread seems to say that the included wheels are junk and I should get better wheels.

Dave, the grinders you bought are a replacement for the 511A/511AX full-sized grinders.  They are probably made in Italy (?) and come with the pink, Italian grinding wheels (?) - please correct me if I am wrong.   http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/BenchGrinder_520-120.htm

The cheap wheels I mentioned came on the smaller, Oregon 310, grinder, made in China, and supplied with fine, brown wheels, also made in China, that were much lower in quality and performance.  I would start with the wheels that came with yours, and see how they work.

Yes, you have to change wheels to grind the depth gauges.  Some guys dedicate a grinder just for this task - sometimes they buy a used one off of CL, or buy one of the $120 clones for this purpose.  Worthwhile if used in a production mode to have 3 grinders, set up with 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" (or 5/16") wheels.

There are a number of threads on using these grinders on different forums.  My top tips:
- take lots of little 'taps', not big ones, to avoid burning cutters (all 'dots' and no 'dashes' if you ever learned Morse code);
- dress the wheels frequently to expose fresh abrasive, not just to maintain the shape (at least once per chain loop, and anytime grinding performance changes);
- only take the wheel down as far as you would file the cutters - go back and clean out the gullets on a second pass (move chain stop back 1/2 turn or so) if needed;
- don't assume that the Left and Right cutters will come out the same.  I grind all of the Left cutters first, then just one of the Right cutters.  Stop, hold it back-to-back with one of the Left cutters, and adjust the chain stop or wheel depth accordingly.

Take your time and you will soon fall into a rhythm.

Philbert

 

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