Chainsaw Repair

At the end of cleaning it does not look so bad.
I disassemble and riassemble cylinder and piston, they have a good tolerance and they are in very good condition. I riassembled with new base gasket.
Also the base bearings and needle cage are good.

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I disassembled carb and I replaced gaskets and diaphragm. I replaced also spark plug, wire and cap.

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I cleaned up and repaint muffler and mounted with new bolts.

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Dismounted, cleaned, greased and remounted oil pump. New oil hose too.

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I replaced starter rope and reassemble with fan cover and I mount the handle.

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Today mechanic at shop find an old used sprocket cover with complete brake assy from a 116si or 120si. I buy them for 50€, I'm feel very lucky.
There's only one problem: the brake spring it's broken, several years of use worn out it.
The hand guard is good but the lever it is bended; it's not a big problem.

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Then, this is my idea for rebuilt the brake spring
I use a steel band; I bend them around a pipe and after that I file the parts where it overlaps (where it must be less wide).
At one extremity I bend it for fix it into the cover, at the other extremity I fix it with a pin at the part connect with the brake lever.
I don't really know if this solution works but the steel band seems strong and thicker than the original spring. We'll see...

In my hand a steel band, the same I used for rebuilt the spring.

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At the left the new spring "self-builded" compared with the old one at right (you can see the worn out extremities).

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I have not reassembled the brake in the cover yet.
For now I'm at this point, during weekend I will go on.

Real will have white lettering stamped on the line TYGON and type # every few 6" or feet.  Fake wont.

Hi guys,
I'm new of this forum, I'm Italian and I live in Nothern Itay near Switzerland.
I want to present you my recent project.

This autumn I decided to clean the toolshed at my granparents' house and in the middle of junk and sundries I found this:

It's a 1989 Dolmar Sachs 120si in bad condition (subsequently become 6800, if I'm right).


I immediately decided that it could not stay in those conditions anymore and that I would have taken some time to fix it.

I did not have much time at home so far but now it's time to start, so I decide to start this post to tell you about the restoration live.

I want to start with some information that I collect: my grandad buy this chainsaw used from a friend in 1991 (the production year could be 1988-1989) and use it for several

It could be a late 1990-'91 by looking at the Made in Germany name tag not West Germany (1990 and older).
I used a older Sachs Dolmar 123 in the mid 1980's,  it was a quick powerhouse of a saw. I believe these saws had quad transfers which why they ran so strong plus the good muffler with oversized outlet pipe.
Husqvarna  got quad porting on a 68-70cc saw  much later on the 372XP. Not sure
 about the earlier 371XP

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7167.0;attach=26485;image

It could be a late 1990-'91 by looking at the Made in Germany name tag not West Germany (1990 and older).

Excellent observation.
On the brake cover that I had bought recently there is "Made in West Germany" because probably it arrives from a older chainsaw.

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I reassemble the brake system with new home made brake spring.

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At hte end I file the chain and mount it on the bar with two new very well made nuts, two nice pieces.
They have an inset that moves freely when you tighten the nut, in this way they never grind on paint.

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The chainsaw works perfectly, he turned on at the third shot; it only needed a carburation adjustment.
Now it needs new stickers, I plan to have them made by a graphic shop near my town, after that it will be ready for a test.

For the moment, in conclusion I'm pretty satisfied about the result and I'm glad the engine did not have big problems.
I'm very happy to have brought back an historical chainsaw.