Author Topic: DOLMAR 6800  (Read 1479 times)

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Offline 660magnum

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DOLMAR 6800
« on: March 23, 2013, 06:19:21 pm »
Well, I now have a Dolmar 6800. It looks pretty nice and is a low time chainsaw. It has a new OEM 6800 cylinder and a new Meteor 6800 piston and Caber rings.


I've owned the chainsaw three years. It started life as a Dolmar 6000iH. A local casual firewood guy was the original owner. It is a 1997  model but I think it set on the shelf in the store a couple years. Along about five years ago, it started running bad so he traded it in on a new red top Dolmar 6400. So again the Dolmar 6000iH sat on the shelf for over a year until I bought it. The Dolmar dealer said it came in with a bad impulse hose. Only thing is, the 6000 doesn't have a impulse hose. The impulse path is though the insulator block. So I assume it was the fuel line??? Anyway, it has always run perfect for me.

It has a 20" replaceable tip bar and a Stihl RSC chain. And is just a sweetheart.



I've had the itch all along to change it into a 6800 by changing the cylinder and piston. I've put it off and finally decided I was going to do it. So I went to the dealer to buy a Cylinder and piston set. He said that the distributor, Central Power in Columbus, OH said it was NLA. So I tried Edge and Engine who have Atlantic Power as their distributor. They took my money but then contacted me the next day that the Cylinder and Piston was NLA. So then I went to Randy the engine man on Ebay and he said he had ten of them for $100 higher price than what the dealers wanted. The next day, he also, said they were no longer available. I tried a place in San Diego and another in Salt Lake and they also said NLA a day later.

Looking on Google, there was a "Dolmar Head" that came up on Ebay $100 with some off the wall part number that didn't match any cylinders I could find on a parts list. But the picture was was of a 6800 cylinder and he said it was 49mm bore which is correct.  So I bought it. It came from Oregon across the country in 3 days. I then bought a Meteor piston from the the guy in Israel $35 including shipping and it took three weeks to get here.

Cut4fun has been against me changing the saw because it was very nice as a 60cc chainsaw heated handles and all. He had taken all these pictures of it.



Today was a nice day so I changed it over. The old 60cc cylinder was not a Mahle but I think it is a Kolbenschmidt? Anyway, the  old cylinder and piston looked brand new on the inside except for smut on the combustion chamber. The hone marks are stihl in the cylinder and the lathe marks are stihl on the piston skirt.

The change over was uneventful except for the wrist pin clips were the plain "C" type and were very hard to get seated in place.

The chainsaw started right up like nothing ever happened. It looks and runs the same as it always did.

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2013, 06:40:52 pm »
I was impressed with it being a 6000 and the torque it had. Wonder how she will feel now in the cuts.  What is it 8cc more?
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2013, 06:43:14 pm »
Dolmar 116Si and 120SI

The Dolmar 116S and 120S are the same bore and stroke as the Dolmar 6000 and 6800 respectively.

In later years, Dolmar sold the same piston and cylinder for both types. The 116S and 6000 were 60cc and the 120S and 6800 were 68cc.

Actually the early cylinders didn't have any fins at all behind the spark plug and the later cylinders had fins all around the spark plug but only a tiny fin below the exhaust port.

Most everything else on the early and late chainsaws is different.

Yes, my chainsaw is 8cc more now.
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Offline rms61moparman

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2013, 06:57:56 pm »


I certainly hope it brings you as much joy as my 120SI has given me!!!
They are the startingest scoundrels I've ever seen.
If you start it more than once a month, it will fire on the first pull almost every time!


Mike

Offline 660magnum

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2013, 01:04:39 am »
The piston sat around here a day before I put it in the chainsaw.

To study the porting/timing layout, there is little hop up that you can do to it especially when using the Meteor piston as this piston has angle reliefs on the lower corners of the skirt that will free port if you do anything to adjust the squish. The skirts on either piston are only wide enough to effectively cover the port openings.

There's not much you could do even with a OEM piston except squish.

The exhaust bolt holes are too close together to widen the exhaust yet the exhaust port is as wide as the practical skirt width.

The narrow skirt width is not wasteful as the relieved area is utilized for the intake transfers.

There is no meat around the transfers so only a minimum amount of widening can be done maybe towards the back of the outlets?

It is a closed port cylinder of the upper and lower window in the cylinder wall type. The distance between the top of the piston and the beginning of the window is exactly the same as the distance between the bottom of the top transfer outlet and the top of the bottom transfer inlet. This ring land area of the piston fits exactly in the transfer intermediate space at bottom dead center. At top dead center, the entire upper and lower transfer openings and all in between are exposed as part of the interior crankcase volume.

The intake port is just completely open at top dead center and the tip of the uvula that sticks down in the center of the intake barely covers the bottom ring at bottom dead center. The width of the intake takes up the practical skirt width.

As is typical German, the interrelationships of all the ports, distances, piston dimensions are extremely well thought out.

To fully port this cylinder, the ports would stihl not be as large as the stock ports on a 372 cylinder.

Yet this chainsaw is a true sweetheart whether a 60cc 116S/6000 or a 68 cc 120S/6800.

Just for the record there are older plain 120's floating around that are only 61cc but I'm sure they make a good showing for their displacement?
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2013, 01:15:03 am »


I certainly hope it brings you as much joy as my 120SI has given me!!!
They are the startingest scoundrels I've ever seen.
If you start it more than once a month, it will fire on the first pull almost every time!



Mike
There is a secret to this very important statement.

The secret is the "i" which stands for "injection" on the Tillotson carburetor. It is not a running fuel injection system but a starting primer injection system. The Dolmar "i" chainsaws will start up with the choke lever "on". You turn the choke off after they start. In cold weather you have to leave the coke on a little bit. Other than the starting primer, the Tillotson carburetor works just like a regular Walbro or Zama carburetor.
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That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
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Offline Old Iron Logging

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2013, 11:45:41 am »
Have to agree on the starting of the "I" series Dolmars. Best starting saws I ever had. And the 116, 120 si models more than held there own in terms of power with anything out in the same time frame.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2013, 03:41:40 pm »
Cut4fun and I were out running 3 cube Huskies today and out in the open fields, the steady wind blowing will get you at 32 degrees. Where we were cutting was in the deep woods though and there was little wind.

When I got to my house, I had to get the 6800 out and do a little cutting with it. All I can say is . . . . oh my! How nice.
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2013, 03:58:46 pm »
On a day when the wind is not steady at 18 mph I want to get that 6800 all heated up - jerk the covers and recheck all the bolts with the chainsaw hot.
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Offline Cut4fun

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Re: DOLMAR 6800
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2013, 04:13:10 pm »
Next trip lets take the 6800 and this old 702 I have.  http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/b802b7aceee6125e88256d0d001e6622?OpenDocument

Let me know if you are going to put a 7 or 8 with 3/8 and I'll do the same.  I'm only going 20"  though.
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