Author Topic: Homelite XL  (Read 1287 times)

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL
« Reply #10 on: January 05, 2014, 05:44:46 pm »
They're decent running little saws.  Tough.  A friend of mine calls them 'bics' in reference to the cheap/reliable lighters and pens. 

They're a PITA to work on, but not too bad once you learn the 'tricks'.  I'd MUCH rather work on these than mini-macs.........but that's not saying much.  Damn things keep multiplying in my shop.  I've never paid for one...................yet somehow probably have 5 or six right now, despite my best efforts. 

The really early ones have a clutch drum that's held on by a NASTY little snap ring rather than a nut.  Later versions thankfully have a 'normal' threaded crank and nut.  Fuel/oil lines and duckbill valves are often melted/dead.  The 69451 duckbill is still available from Oregon and Stens (and costs about $1.50-$3.00 each depending on where you get 'em).  Crank seals are SKF 4913, or Poulan/Husqvarna 530019059.  Easy to find and shouldn't cost more than $5 apiece. 

Some versions have diaphragm oilers.  Damn diaphragm will cost you more than the saw's worth.  Most later versions have a simpler pressurized oil tank system without the diaphragm oiler.  Some late ones have that 'fancy' adjustable setup like what's on the first saw pictured in this thread.  Overcomplicated, with more hoses than a 1979 Chevy Monte Carlo.

The Poulan Micro and XXV series saws are thousands of miles ahead of these in both performance and ease of service.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.
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