Author Topic: Homelite XL2  (Read 2846 times)

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2013, 03:22:47 pm »
Oh and you'll get pretty good at R/R'ing that engine in a hurry..........since you have to do that when you make any repairs other than replacing the AF or spark plug on these damn things.  You might as well change ALL the lines and replace the fuel tank and oil tank duckbill valves (69451) while you have it out.........or you'll be pulling it apart again soon.  Like I said however..................you'll get to the point where it takes about 30 seconds to get the engine out and about a minute to put it back together...

I see your saw is like the evil XL2 and my early saw.  Has the snap ring clutch retainer (rather than the threaded crank and nut used on later saws in the series).  That little bastard is NOT fun to remove from the crank.  Crank seals are the same as what's used on the Poulan Micro series saws (2000 etc).  530019059 at your local Husky dealer (mine stocked 'em), or SKF 4913 at your bearing house.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #11 on: June 22, 2013, 03:31:37 pm »
nein nein nein  ;) :D :D  Aaron you dont understand.  I dont want to see the little saws anymore. I have this xl2 and a running  cutting xl   a poulan pro 236 builder that starts but needs work and a running cutting 1800 I want to trade off.

I just want to clear some shelf space and get out of these series of saws all together.
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #12 on: June 22, 2013, 03:46:30 pm »
nein nein nein  ;) :D :D  Aaron you dont understand.  I dont want to see the little saws anymore. I have this xl2 and a running  cutting xl   a poulan pro 236 builder that starts but needs work and a running cutting 1800 I want to trade off.

I just want to clear some shelf space and get out of these series of saws all together.

LOL.  Good luck with that Kevin.  Like I said..............they have a tendency to multiply.  They're even more prolific than the mini-macs.  Whenever one of THOSE finds its way into my shop through a 'free saw' connection I immediately dump them off in my buddy's shed.  He's gotten wise, and now does the same thing to me with the XL2/super2 saws.  Ugh...

The only small 'shell cased' (not talking 'clamshell' engine........although many 'shell cased' saws are 'clamshells as well) saws that I don't mind multiplying here are the Poulan Micro series.  I could have a dozen of 'em and wouldn't mind.  They're great truck/loaner saws. 

On that note.................I am still interested in that PP236 of yours.  Shipping quickly makes any deal go beyond the scope of what any saw of this type is worth to me however.  We need to talk.  Tradeja a nice used 20" (72DL) Husky branded D009 (272/372/etc) mount 3/8-.058G Oregon Powermatch bar for it...
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #13 on: June 22, 2013, 11:34:22 pm »
nein nein nein  ;) :D :D  Aaron you dont understand.  I dont want to see the little saws anymore. I have this xl2 and a running  cutting xl   a poulan pro 236 builder that starts but needs work and a running cutting 1800 I want to trade off.

I just want to clear some shelf space and get out of these series of saws all together.

LOL.  Good luck with that Kevin.  Like I said..............they have a tendency to multiply.  They're even more prolific than the mini-macs.  Whenever one of THOSE finds its way into my shop through a 'free saw' connection I immediately dump them off in my buddy's shed.  He's gotten wise, and now does the same thing to me with the XL2/super2 saws.  Ugh...

The only small 'shell cased' (not talking 'clamshell' engine........although many 'shell cased' saws are 'clamshells as well) saws that I don't mind multiplying here are the Poulan Micro series.  I could have a dozen of 'em and wouldn't mind.  They're great truck/loaner saws. 

On that note.................I am still interested in that PP236 of yours.  Shipping quickly makes any deal go beyond the scope of what any saw of this type is worth to me however.  We need to talk.  Tradeja a nice used 20" (72DL) Husky branded D009 (272/372/etc) mount 3/8-.058G Oregon Powermatch bar for it...

Oh I have a poulan S25DA I tore down for a look see and never put back together. Never pulled the cyl etc. Just took it down as far  as you would for fuel line replacement.
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #14 on: June 22, 2013, 11:43:14 pm »
That S25DA is a good saw.  A class above all the 'shell cased' tophandles.  I run my S25-CVA's quite a bit.  Strong, rugged little 38cc saws.  Easy to work on too.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #15 on: June 23, 2013, 01:25:36 am »
I'm glad it was you wrestling with that XL2 rather than me.

I had to work on a Echo SRM-2400 carb and did some whacking around noon. Between 7 & 8PM I did some more. Beautiful running weed whackers.
I have a PB-2400 blower and a SRM-2100 whacker that is just as good as the 2400. I also have a new TC-2100 rotor tiller

Ordered some rubber parts for the pump, fuel line, and stop switch wiring for my 7900
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
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Offline pete

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2013, 04:49:07 am »
Aaron whats the steps for getting the motor out first one I did has never gone back together, I notice all your throttle linkages are intact I thinks I removed way too many bits, I have both types of carbs on some of these  I have three more to work on and have been putting it off as a PITA but you make it sound easier than it was cheers anyone got a workshop manual for these I t would be a big help.  Had a bad day with poulan see new post

Offline Al Smith

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #17 on: June 23, 2013, 05:06:46 am »
Those things are every bit as bad to work on as a mini Mac. For that matter the Poulan s-25 in my opinion is a pain in the buttocks too.

Fact I've got two S-25's on the bench right now that have me baffled as to what's wrong with them .

Offline Sawnami

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #18 on: June 23, 2013, 07:25:58 am »
The little XL series don't seem that difficult to get apart to me. I'd rather take one of those apart than my Super 2100. The recoil cover, 4 case screws, and the bar nut and the engine drops out. My biggest challenge is remembering the throttle link going back together. I learned that you always dig out the air filter before trying to start one that's been sitting for a long time. The first time that it fires up, it'll suck a deteriorated filter through the carb and into the engine in a heart beat.  :-\
Super 2100, 750, XP1020, C-91, XL-98, XL-850, XL-700, Zip, 450, SXLAO Limited Edition, Super XL-12, XL-12, 150, Super EZ Automatic, EZ Automatic, XL2, XL
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #19 on: June 23, 2013, 10:30:01 am »
XL2   only took like 5 mins to pull the motor as seen in pic.   4 bolts, 2 top 2 bottom.  Pulled flywheel and both tanks. Removed sparkplug and slide whole unit out.

Yeah Al I like the power and the cut of the S25. Not to my liking to work on either. Guess I have got spoiled.
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