Author Topic: Homelite XL2  (Read 2846 times)

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #20 on: June 23, 2013, 03:21:52 pm »
Aaron whats the steps for getting the motor out first one I did has never gone back together, I notice all your throttle linkages are intact I thinks I removed way too many bits, I have both types of carbs on some of these  I have three more to work on and have been putting it off as a PITA but you make it sound easier than it was cheers anyone got a workshop manual for these I t would be a big help.  Had a bad day with poulan see new post

-Remove bar and chain. 

-Spark plug.  Tuck the plug wire inside the case.

-Four case screws.  Handlebar (two screws). 

-Flywheel cover/starter housing. 

-Unplug kill switch wire from the coil.  Move it out of the way. 

-Slide the engine out.  Make note of how the throttle link fits into the carburetor arm.

Reassembly is just the reverse.  Getting the throttle link into the trigger arm is a tad tricky the first time you do it.  After that, it isn't so bad.  Don't tighten the four case screws until you have them all threaded in. 

These saws are nowhere near as hard/frustrating to work on as a mini-mac.  Just a bit irritating that you have to take the engine out for EVERYTHING, as there's no separate clutch cover to remove...

XXV series Poulans are easy compared to these.  So are the Micro series saws.  I'd MUCH rather work on either of those than an XL2 or mini-mac.........or 020 and 015 series stihl (yuk).  The mini-macs and the 015 and 020 stihls are a terrible PITA to work on.

Al what symptoms are the S-25's showing?
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #21 on: June 23, 2013, 06:35:00 pm »
What the S-25's ? They might start then act like they starve for gas .I changed carbs ,same same .

I finally found some fuel line that I think will work .Carbs have been rebuilt ,one I changed the clutch side seal .

I just haven't had the time to fiddle with them here of late .Also there an 020AV I have to rebuild the carb and I'm not looking forward to disecting that thing either .

To make matters worse my little hot rod super duper lighting fast 200T is not right either .I'm down to one good running stock 200T as of the moment for trim saws .Well there's the Echo I suppose if worse comes to worse plus the mini Macs .Ah just remembered I do have another s-25 hiding in the shed someplace .

Offline brokenbudget

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #22 on: June 23, 2013, 10:26:49 pm »
al, i have an s-25 in craftsman red here that wants to rev to the moon and die. pressure tests out more than fine. i know the engine is properly sealed. the carb is perfectly clean, i mean brand new clean.
idles perfect.
throttles up perfect.
will not top out and burble, just wants to sing higher and higher.-- at "stock" settings.
tried the low speed jet open to just above a half turn open, re-adjusted idle, now a nice top rpm, and she really cuts very well.
i tried the low from just opened, to about 3/4 of a full turn. this saw just seems to like that spot. and it sort of makes sense to me now becaues when i recieved it, the low was just about where i have it now.
i remember some of the older homelites having carbs that needed to be set like that.
when I grow up, i wanna be an adult.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #23 on: June 24, 2013, 04:37:13 am »
What the S-25's ? They might start then act like they starve for gas .I changed carbs ,same same .

I finally found some fuel line that I think will work .Carbs have been rebuilt ,one I changed the clutch side seal .

I just haven't had the time to fiddle with them here of late .Also there an 020AV I have to rebuild the carb and I'm not looking forward to disecting that thing either .

To make matters worse my little hot rod super duper lighting fast 200T is not right either .I'm down to one good running stock 200T as of the moment for trim saws .Well there's the Echo I suppose if worse comes to worse plus the mini Macs .Ah just remembered I do have another s-25 hiding in the shed someplace .

Those S25's use a long fuel line.  Many twists and turns that could be ****/kinked and causing problems.  I use 3/32x3/16" fuel line on these.  You'll need to remove the flywheel to route it correctly.  That's easy to do with these saws.  Just loosen the nut until it's flush with the end, pry or pull up the flywheel (I hold a fin at the root with pliers and lift the whole saw just off the bench), and smack the non-magnet side of the flywheel with a wood block or plastic hammer.  Line goes through a loop cast into the case behind the flywheel.  That loop keeps the line from  contacting the flywheel.

Could be crank seals too.  530019051.  My Husky dealer ordered them for me the last time I needed them.  May want to take a look at the reed if it pressure checks fine but still acts like they're starving.  Sometimes a bit of crud will get through the carb and hold the reed off its seat.  Seen that a couple times with these and the Micros.

Good luck with the 020T and 200T.  Those damn things are no fun to work on.  The 200T's are sure runners when they're right.  When they're not......

LMK if you guys need XXV series parts.  Aside from P/C's (and handlebar AV buffers for the S25-CVA versions), I've got spares of most everything.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #24 on: June 24, 2013, 04:38:00 am »
Duplicate post.  Mods please delete...
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #25 on: June 24, 2013, 04:55:53 am »

Back on track.  This is the evil bastard that I worked on as a favor for a friend.  Wasn't even his saw.  Belonged to a friend of his at work.  Had it apart a number of times.  Cleaned about 2 pounds of crap out of it.  Carb rebuild.  All lines and duckbills.  Leaking oiler diaphragm.  Crank seals.  FW side crank bearing.  Cleaned and gapped points...

Think I put about $25-$30 in parts and about $200 worth of labor into that damn thing.  My friend has seriously hooked me up in the past, so I put the money and time into this little stinker without much complaint.... ::)





-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #26 on: June 24, 2013, 08:49:16 pm »
I've never had one of those little gems field stripped that far .---nor do I care to ---

Offline dutchsawdoctor

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #27 on: June 26, 2013, 04:00:20 pm »
Good job :o
Best regards,Saul
Dolmar  Stihl Solo Husqvarna Homelite Ole-mac Echo Jobu Ridgid Poulan Remington Pioneer Partner ,Danarm stanley
more chainsaw repairs Oldtimer-Motorsägen  http://pily.strojevlese.cz / http://www.sauls-kettingzagen-site.nl

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #28 on: June 26, 2013, 04:09:33 pm »
Thanks.  Once you get the engine out of the case and clean all the crud off that builds up around the engine................they're not hard to go further.  The case halves are sealed with a clear RTV type sealer that lets go pretty easily.  The remaining residue is hard to see and tedious to remove though. 

I made some shims to properly space the bearings out during assembly (per the Homelite shop manual).  Made mine out of some clear hard plastic from the packaging my compression tester came in.  Was about the right thickness.  You place the shims between the thrust washers and the crank shoulders, set everything in place in the cylinder half of the crankcase, carefully remove the shims without disturbing anything, and then install the other crankcase half.  I sealed it with Hondabond-4.  Same as Threebond 1194....
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: Homelite XL2
« Reply #29 on: June 26, 2013, 04:55:00 pm »
FWIW they used to use Indian head gasket shellac to seal the 10 series and Mini Macs .They didn't leak .It's been around for 100 years and is still pretty good stuff.

 

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