Author Topic: homelite xp 1100  (Read 799 times)

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Offline stihls066

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homelite xp 1100
« on: December 11, 2013, 03:12:10 am »
I have achance to pick up a running one just needs the starter fixed. whats a reasonable price? anyone got any extra parts or things to look out for?
chainsaws are chainsaws but stihl runs through my veins
Stihl 044,440,046,460,064,066,660,084,088,880
Ht 101,131
Mac sp125,125c,5-49

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2013, 03:38:20 pm »
Prices/value for these old saws is a tough question.  Condition, and what bars/chains that are included both play a huge part in determining the value as well.  These saws usually run 1/2" chain....................and that stuff is getting expensive and scarce.  If it has  one of the rare rim-drive sprocket adapters, that piece in itself is valuable.  Same if it has a .404 spur sprocket on it.

Common breakage areas on these include the drive case (in the area where the spike set attaches), the muffler cover (which is often broken and/or missing), and the area of the crankcase where the lower end of the handlebar attaches.  Pistons and cylinders are still available NOS, but are starting to get expensive.  Most other parts are out there too.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline stihls066

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Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2013, 07:04:56 pm »
10-4 thanks
chainsaws are chainsaws but stihl runs through my veins
Stihl 044,440,046,460,064,066,660,084,088,880
Ht 101,131
Mac sp125,125c,5-49

Offline stihls066

  • 6 cube
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  • Posts: 155
  • Karma: 7
  • Location: northern ca.
Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2013, 09:43:30 pm »
any other models interchange for parts? thinking im gonna need a new piston and rings and possibly starter.
chainsaws are chainsaws but stihl runs through my veins
Stihl 044,440,046,460,064,066,660,084,088,880
Ht 101,131
Mac sp125,125c,5-49

Offline Eccentric

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  • Magnesium and Iron.
  • Location: Northern California.
Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2013, 11:13:10 pm »
any other models interchange for parts? thinking im gonna need a new piston and rings and possibly starter.


An XP1130 or 1130G is largely the same.  For the piston/rings you could broaden your search to an XP1000, XP1020, XP1100, XP1130, 1130G, or 1050 (and the 'super' branded versions of those). 

Does your XP1100 have an overrunning bearing starter or the two-pawl type?  The overrunning bearing type was phased out during the XP1000/XP1100 production.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline stihls066

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Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2013, 10:30:23 pm »
Its the bearing type starter. Got it working but no spark :(
chainsaws are chainsaws but stihl runs through my veins
Stihl 044,440,046,460,064,066,660,084,088,880
Ht 101,131
Mac sp125,125c,5-49

Offline Eccentric

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  • Magnesium and Iron.
  • Location: Northern California.
Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2013, 12:22:12 am »
Its the bearing type starter. Got it working but no spark :(


In that case, you're limited to a starter from an XP-1000 or XP-1100 with the overrunning bearing starter.  Glad to hear you got the starter working.  That style can be cranky.  If need be, you could swap on a flywheel and starter (together as an assembly) from an XP-1020, XP-1130, 1050, or 1130G.

The ignition is a points type, and is all under the flywheel (except for the kill switch and wire).
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline stihls066

  • 6 cube
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  • Posts: 155
  • Karma: 7
  • Location: northern ca.
Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #7 on: December 15, 2013, 02:34:44 am »
yeah that's my current problem. no spark.  none of my sockets or bar wrenches fit the flywheel nut so im at a impass. all of them are too thick walled. gonna try the local saw shop the mechanic there is an oldtimer who collect old saws so he might have the right socket lol
chainsaws are chainsaws but stihl runs through my veins
Stihl 044,440,046,460,064,066,660,084,088,880
Ht 101,131
Mac sp125,125c,5-49

Offline stihls066

  • 6 cube
  • ****
  • Posts: 155
  • Karma: 7
  • Location: northern ca.
Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2014, 10:31:59 pm »
Is there a specialty tool for remiving the flywheel nut on these? The nuts so close to the wall i cant get a socket down to it!
chainsaws are chainsaws but stihl runs through my veins
Stihl 044,440,046,460,064,066,660,084,088,880
Ht 101,131
Mac sp125,125c,5-49

Offline Eccentric

  • Moderator
  • Nitro Hotsaw
  • *******
  • Posts: 2110
  • Karma: 217
  • Magnesium and Iron.
  • Location: Northern California.
Re: homelite xp 1100
« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2014, 12:39:44 am »
Is there a specialty tool for remiving the flywheel nut on these? The nuts so close to the wall i cant get a socket down to it!

The factory special tool was a thin-wall socket.  You'll probably have to sacrifice a socket and grind it down enough to fit into the starter 'tube' thing (called the inner race by Homelite) on the flywheel.  You could also talk to a Snap-On, Mack, or Matco tool guy and see if you can get a thin-wall socket from him.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

 

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