Author Topic: Husqvarna 2100  (Read 1072 times)

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Offline Magnus

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Re: 2100
« Reply #20 on: October 17, 2013, 01:14:14 am »
Thanks - I wanted to see if it said 1984 or if the number just started with a four!  I'm trying to find out exactly when they started putting the numbers that is decodable to the week on the saws.  ;)
You know there is more than one system right?
Is is a year you are after you will not get it right very easily as they had models without system parallel those with.
Let me know what you come up with I help you test your theory.
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Offline SawTroll

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Re: 2100
« Reply #21 on: October 17, 2013, 02:58:58 am »
Yes, I know that very well.

I believe I can date most Huskys made 1985 and after to the week, with the possible exception of some "special series" ones, like Swedish Army saws (or saws for different agencies).
So far, all 1983 and 1984 saws that I have seen have had the full year on the tag, but I am not sure if that means all 1984 saws have it - actually I suspect the late ones may just have a 7 digit number starting with 4, but obviosly not this one....

I am generally not able to date a Husky saw made before 1983 - some times there seem to be a hint to the year in the "Assy" number, but I don't trust it......

Also, from earlier exchanges of posts, I know that you have (or had) a list of numbers that doesn't "fit in" - I always thought those were from "special series" saws.

Offline Magnus

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Re: 2100
« Reply #22 on: October 17, 2013, 06:03:10 am »
I doubt it is from "special series" as it is from normal users I got them from in most cases.
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Offline SawTroll

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Re: 2100
« Reply #23 on: October 17, 2013, 05:16:14 pm »
As I said, I don't know for sure what's up with the "odd" serial numbers you have observed.

However, it surely tells me something that they have used the "datable" serial numbers as reference to changes made in production as long as that system has existed - both in Service Bulletins and IPLs.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: 2100
« Reply #24 on: October 17, 2013, 06:59:10 pm »
Couple little points on this model .First it has to be the most difficult saw ever made to pull over .High compression with a relatively  small rope drum .A D-handle rope pull makes it tollerable .

It has a rather large bore  Tillotson model HS carb and floods very easy .It took me a while to figure it out .On a cold start choke it until it fires once then release the choke and crank it until it starts which they usually do .If you stay on that choke too long and flood it you are in for a workout before it goes .

These things have some power .Before the 3120 Husqvarna these were the things they made hot saws out of .

Online 3000 FPS

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Re: 2100
« Reply #25 on: October 17, 2013, 08:38:43 pm »
Couple little points on this model .First it has to be the most difficult saw ever made to pull over .High compression with a relatively  small rope drum .A D-handle rope pull makes it tollerable .

It has a rather large bore  Tillotson model HS carb and floods very easy .It took me a while to figure it out .On a cold start choke it until it fires once then release the choke and crank it until it starts which they usually do .If you stay on that choke too long and flood it you are in for a workout before it goes .

These things have some power .Before the 3120 Husqvarna these were the things they made hot saws out of .

Hot saws, that's cool.   I am keeping it stock except the muffler. 
 
I could hear something rattling around in the muffler and could see some loose metal in it but could not get it out through the exhaust port.   So I cut a square out of the back of it and the whole baffle was broken free in pieces and rattling around.   So I removed all the metal pieces blew it out with the air hose and then welded it back up.   Weird.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: 2100
« Reply #26 on: October 17, 2013, 09:22:02 pm »
I guess some of them had a two piece muffler.Mine doesn't or else the baffles would be out of it already .

Yeah mine is going to stay stock also .It runs just fine the way it is .

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Re: 2100
« Reply #27 on: October 17, 2013, 10:24:44 pm »
I guess some of them had a two piece muffler.Mine doesn't or else the baffles would be out of it already .

Yeah mine is going to stay stock also .It runs just fine the way it is .

My muffler was not two piece either that's why I cut a square out of the back.   Weld it back up and you cannot see it.
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Offline Cut4fun

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Re: Husqvarna 2100
« Reply #28 on: December 18, 2013, 01:27:54 pm »
I dont usually buy these ...... :o......  ;D (not wanting to ruffle any feathers)  ;D  .

Anyhow looking at this one missing some parts.  What you see is what I have seen only.   Guessing cylinder cover, af cover, filter.  Is there a filter box or anything else?

Known issues with these to ask about?

Your opinion of what one is worth to buy that looks like this (says runs great)?  Do you think I could find the parts to finish easily? 
REDNECK Saw Repair

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Husqvarna 2100
« Reply #29 on: December 18, 2013, 03:32:27 pm »
Looks like top cover, AF, and AF cover.  There's no filter box.  Top covers aren't too hard to find.  Filters aren't either.  A good AF cover is HARD to find nowadays.  They were all broken or discarded.

Not many known issues.  The o-rings around/under the manual oiler pump can leak.  When that happens you get fuel in the bar oil tank.  The stock fuel tank vent is a complicated piece with NLA parts.  It is best replaced with a molded fuel line (they're still available for these........both OEM and aftermarket) with a white plastic Echo tank vent on the end of the line (in the carb box area).  Look out for stripped screw holes, especially for the handlebar mounting screws (both on the bottom, and on the right side).

If it runs great and the P/C are good (I'd be worried about the intake side being 'dusted' if he's been running it without a filter) then it's worth a couple Franklins.  Maybe a tad more.  Pull the muffler and look at the P/C through the port at least.  Rings are standard 56mm x 1.5mm.  You can replace 'em with Cabers or with OEM 394XP rings.  Crank bearings are standard 6203's.  Crank seals are the same ones used on 181/281/288 and 394/395 Husqvarnas.

If you get that thing cheap enough and don't wanna keep it.............well then the dynamics of that trade we've been talking about may change a tad. 8)
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

 

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