Author Topic: Husqvarna 2100 2101 1100 298  (Read 2687 times)

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #40 on: July 30, 2014, 10:16:25 pm »
Husqvarna 2100 service manual  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxtqTb6j-rejRDBuQ3UtVWtXVWs/edit   save to your hard drive or print.

Husqvarna 2100 IPL  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxtqTb6j-rejUnoyS3lrdWhOLVE/edit   " " " "

Husqvarna 2101 owners manual  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwyFMP_THfM8MWhwNVh4cmxJVnM/edit  " " " "



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Offline aclarke

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #41 on: July 30, 2014, 10:29:45 pm »
Kev, are you saying the metering side carb cover is drilled? Kinda odd, but if that's the case, that would tend to mess with the carb mixture somewhat.  I.e stihl Intelicarb system.  Doubt that's the real issue but it may make the carb adjustment fussy.  Make sure the enrichment system us indeed defeated, short of that maybe case gasket or seals are bad.  Loose cylinder bolts??   Adam

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #42 on: July 30, 2014, 10:41:24 pm »
Checking the cyl bolts next. 



The gov has that flat piece metal I would assume in the early pics.  I seen 12's out of the wood and that 17/5" wasnt slowing it down any. 
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Offline aclarke

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #43 on: July 30, 2014, 10:59:47 pm »
Air leak or screwey carb IMO. Supper time here, homemade Shepherds Pie and a Guiness stout

Offline winland

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #44 on: July 31, 2014, 07:36:34 am »

Took it to the bench and pulled carb and tore it down checking things. I adjusted the fulcrum and the needle look new so put it back.  You replaced the needle right? Diaphragms looked good on both sides, so no use opening that new kit IMO. 

I made  4 full cuts in 17.5" dry maple no problems and starting on 5th cut when raised up out of wood to hit 5th cookie she went into a run on like on the race saws. I hit the kill switch and it did nothing. So I then took my hand and pushed into the green weenie filter to block off air to shut her down.

While still hot I started trying to start and check things and it was just erratic with it's idle and starting when hot.

I am thinking there are bigger issues here from a  air leak once warmed up.  What do you all think, seals, base,  etc?

I did replace the needle when I rebuilt the carb, along with the spring and diaphragms and gaskets. 
I did not replace the welsh plugs
Never had the shut off switch not work.



Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #45 on: July 31, 2014, 09:28:37 am »

Took it to the bench and pulled carb and tore it down checking things. I adjusted the fulcrum and the needle look new so put it back.  You replaced the needle right? Diaphragms looked good on both sides, so no use opening that new kit IMO. 

I made  4 full cuts in 17.5" dry maple no problems and starting on 5th cut when raised up out of wood to hit 5th cookie she went into a run on like on the race saws. I hit the kill switch and it did nothing. So I then took my hand and pushed into the green weenie filter to block off air to shut her down.

While still hot I started trying to start and check things and it was just erratic with it's idle and starting when hot.

I am thinking there are bigger issues here from a  air leak once warmed up.  What do you all think, seals, base,  etc?

I did replace the needle when I rebuilt the carb, along with the spring and diaphragms and gaskets. 
I did not replace the welsh plugs
Never had the shut off switch not work.

Switch probably does still work. I would guess it was due to the run on happening when it was hot. Had it happen racing before too. Went to hit kill switch and saw just kept on going. Have to either choke them off or flood them with squirt bottle.

I'll know for sure when I try it cold again to see.  Pretty sure I remember using the switch other times too.
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Offline aclarke

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #46 on: July 31, 2014, 09:47:15 am »
Kevin.  One more thing I thought of that would give erratic carburetion would be a bent fork on the metering needle /fulcrum.  The forks are often bent from the mfg.  Take a close look at that.   

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #47 on: July 31, 2014, 09:58:39 am »
I pulled the fulcrum etc and looked it over before I adjusted it, nothing bent.

One thing I did notice. It is using a pinned attached metering diaphragm.  I had read in service manual there was the pinned and not in 2100 HS?
 I remember one of my saws years ago had troubles with pinned attached diaphragm. Went to unpinned not attached dia, fulcrum style and worked.

winland do you remember what type of metering diaphragm came out of the carb  or have a pic? Just a grasping at straws deal here.
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Offline winland

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #48 on: July 31, 2014, 10:08:49 am »
This is a photo of the original diaphragm that I replaced.

Also I found this youtube video.  Sounds a lot like the problem I am having with the 2100.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7f9zNQTJBQ


 

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 2100 no power in the cut
« Reply #49 on: July 31, 2014, 10:24:43 am »
Only thing this dont use rubber boot. Solid intake block and I made sure all was tight. But didnt check the intake block you put on cylinder before bringing it.  I'll spray around it next start up and see there too then.

I also noticed your 2100 does seem to get leaner in the cuts yesterday.

Just so you know it had plenty of power in the 4 cuts yesterday till it went haywire on the 5th one.

Same dia so rules that idea out.
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