Chainsaw Repair

2100 2101 1100 285 intake block

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-2100-CHAINSAW-INTAKE-BOX2096R-/351066034333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bd2a909d

http://store.chainsawr.com/products/husqvarna-2100-chainsaw-intake-manifold

There is a compound called 'Plast-Aid' that you can make a new one from.  You will need to use the old one as mold.  Take a look;

http://www.plast-aid.com/

Ive called them on some projects and they were quite helpful.

I got the intake block Monday morning and installed it.
Still have the same problem. 
No worse, no better.

I just spent 2hrs with this 2100. First tested and seen what owner was talking about. Start making cut and it would shut off. Tried it a couple times same thing.

Took it to the bench and pulled carb and tore it down checking things. I adjusted the fulcrum and the needle look new so put it back.  You replaced the needle right? Diaphragms looked good on both sides, so no use opening that new kit IMO.  The choke wasnt closing all the way but that is another story. Fixed.

Checked spark with the new tool and even after stops and testing it showed. GREEN (flashing) Proper voltage, ingnition is OK

I made  4 full cuts in 17.5" dry maple no problems and starting on 5th cut when raised up out of wood to hit 5th cookie she went into a run on like on the race saws. I hit the kill switch and it did nothing. So I then took my hand and pushed into the green weenie filter to block off air to shut her down.

While still hot I started trying to start and check things and it was just erratic with it's idle and starting when hot.

I am thinking there are bigger issues here from a  air leak once warmed up.  What do you all think, seals, base,  etc?

I dont know 2100's so hoping you all can shed some light. 
 

The way it acted once warmed up made me think seals. 

When cold had perfect idle and blipping up to rpm. Walked to back to make test cuts and after it got hot after 4th cookie is when it acted up.

Also noticed someone at one time drilled a much larger hole in the carb cover over metering diaphragm. The oem one is still there too off to  the side.

Something weird I noticed is this cylinder is black. Dont look painted?