Author Topic: Husqvarna 350  (Read 2987 times)

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Offline jmester

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Re: 350
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2014, 08:20:50 am »
I also found that  you need to trim off 3 plastic ribs on the inside of the clutch side of the saw to allow the 346 cylinder to sit flush on the riser.
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: 350
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2014, 08:49:26 am »
Good to know.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
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Offline farmboy

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Re: 350
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2014, 09:26:06 am »
Thanks for the link. Would you guys recommend the 357/359 carb.

Yep!

I also found that  you need to trim off 3 plastic ribs on the inside of the clutch side of the saw to allow the 346 cylinder to sit flush on the riser.

Saw that in an old post when Stumpy did one.  Forgot  about it.  Thanks for the reminder I have 2 to do.
Shep

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 350
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2014, 10:52:46 am »
Thanks for the link. Would you guys recommend the 357/359 carb.

JMO on this. If you have a HOT cookie cutting woods ported saw a 357 359 199 walbro is good for 10% quicker cut times. Can only be told by using a stop watch. 

The zama 357 359 carb wont flow enough for a hot woods port. Only  lesser and stock saws.

Carbs stock on the 346. I ran 1 on my woods ported 45cc 346 and a  199 357 carb on the other 346 45cc woods ported. You couldnt tell anything between them toill you put a stop watch on the cuts.

I ran a nice woods ported work saw 346 XPG 50cc at a racing GTG with the stock 346 carb and it ran right with the 50cc ones with the 357 carbs on them.  Like I said earlier your giving up 10% but wont notice cutting wood without a stop watch.

1st run 7.70  2nd run 6.85 NE 346, 357 carb

1st run 7.62 NE 346, 346 carb,  I only make 1 run at gtgs.

1st run 7.97 NE 346, 357 carb, 357 intake, ceramic bearings .

1st run 7.98  OE 346, 357 carb, 346 intake. 45cc



Offline weimedog

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Re: 350
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2014, 02:40:47 pm »
Just put together a 350 tried the 357 vs. stock carb. Started easier with the stock carb and with essentially stock timing I certainly couldn't see any gain with the 357 out in the woods. SO in my humble opinion unless you can see a measurable difference on a hot rod saw... save the money and stick with a stock carb. The other thing was I had to grind a little to make the left side  (adjuster screw side) throttle linkage/stop so it wouldn't interfere with the case with the 357 carb.

Offline Cut4fun

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Re: 350
« Reply #15 on: May 11, 2014, 03:00:35 pm »
Bingo weimedog well said.

Work saw you will never notice the difference. 


Offline jmester

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Re: 350
« Reply #16 on: May 11, 2014, 09:44:32 pm »
Thanks for the info. Think I will stick with the stock 346 carb. That way it will run the same carb kit as my 346 and 2152.
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Offline jmester

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Re: 350
« Reply #17 on: May 12, 2014, 09:40:33 pm »
Is the C3-EL17 part number 503283207 the non limiter capped carb and the C3-EL18 limiter capped. I ordered a C3-EL32 and then realized I have no primer bulb. Guess that is what happens when you are in a hurry.
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Offline jmester

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Re: 350
« Reply #18 on: May 17, 2014, 09:36:31 pm »
Got the parts in the other day. Got the crank and riser back in the saw. Intake and new clamp on the cylinder. Test fit every thing and the transfer loop is awful close to the clutch side of the case. Do you guys think it will get hot enough that low on the cylinder to melt the case. It is going to be a climbing saw lots of start up and run for a minute or so then back off. Not a firewood saw.
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: 350
« Reply #19 on: May 18, 2014, 01:34:19 am »
There's not enough heat at the lower end of the transfers because the incoming fuel helps to cool the area off a little bit.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

 

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