Author Topic: 371xp Oiler question  (Read 385 times)

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Offline winland

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371xp Oiler question
« on: April 23, 2014, 09:26:23 am »
As I noted in the "Wanted" section, I am working on the oiler for my 371xp.
I got the clutch off with 660magnum's inspiration to make my own tool.
Next is the propeller looking part, the drive wheel.
The 371 workshop manual says to unscrew this and remove.
Well mine did not need to be unscrewed.  I was able to just lift it off.
It does not screw on or off.  There are good threads on the outside of the drive wheel, but do not see what it is suppose to screw on/off of.
Also, I am not finding the oil pump washer, PN 503 23 00-59.



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Offline 660magnum

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2014, 09:55:04 am »
There are supposed to be left hand threads on the crank shaft for the clutch spider frame to screw onto.
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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2014, 10:28:24 am »
There are three parts that are needed for the pump drive. The washer you noted used to keep the pump drive from eating up the seal, 503521501 the pump piston, the drive wheel engages the splines on the piston, the crank shaft bushing 503779101 this is what the pump drive rides on, there should be a very thin o-ring  beneath this 503263019, it seals the crank going through the inner race of the bearing.

Have a look at your pump drive to see if perhaps the bushing came off with the pump drive.

So here is the assembly order, o-ring on the crank against the inner race. Sleeve over the crankshaft, large end into the seal. Then the washer over the bushing against the seal. Then the pump, then the pump drive spins down engaging the splines on the pump piston.

I suspect the problem to be a severely worn piston shaft or the drive is going past the pump piston because of the missing washer. Post a set of pictures of your parts.
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Offline winland

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2014, 10:50:36 am »
Here are some photos of what I have.
All the screws look to be in good condition, not worn.

The part number on the inside of the pump is a husqvarna # 5035214
503 52 13 is the number in the IPL

when assembled, should you be able to pull the drive wheel off the shaft, or must it be unscrewed?
I can lift the drive wheel off the shaft, out of the pump no need to unscrew.






Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2014, 11:38:26 am »
Your third picture clearly shows the sleeve in its' proper position, the sleeve just slips inside the seal, underneath it is the o-ring mentioned in my earlier post. The washer you are missing slips down over the sleeve and rests against the seal. It is there to keep the rotating pump drive from chewing up the outer lip of the seal and to keep the drive fully engaged with the pump piston. On the 365/372 series of saws the oil pump is driven off the clutch drum not the crank shaft. E.g. the pump drive just spins freely on the bushing when the clutch engages.

In your second picture you can see the pump shaft with splines that engage the outer threads on the plastic pump drive wheel. If the washer you are missing is not there the pump drive wheel will sometimes go in too far and not engage the splines enough to drive the pump efficiently.

Lastly take your pump drive and lay it across the notches in your clutch drum to make sure that the ears on the drive protrude a tiny amount past the notches in the drum. Sometimes people put the drum on without engaging the drive in the clutch drum causing premature wear on the drive.

Sorry, I missed one of your questions. You should have to unscrew the pump drive from the shaft. What you are really doing is disengaging the pump drive from the pump shaft. The threads of the pump drive should be centered over the pump shaft equidistant from either end of the threads on the drive wheel.
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

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Offline winland

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2014, 11:56:30 am »
Is it possible that because I am missing the washer, that the drive wheel is sitting to low and not catching on the clutch drum?

Any chance I can get my missing washer, 503 23 00-59, at my local ACE hardware or Lowes?
Need to know size?

Chuck
PS: thanks guys for helping this non-mechanic

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2014, 12:06:25 pm »
Yes that is also a possibility, also the drive wheel threads are supposed to meet the pump shaft at the 12 o'clock position. Too much either way toward 11 or 1 o'clock will not drive the pump correctly and may cause the drive to slip past the pump shaft at high RPMs, just where you need the most oil.

Unfortunately I do not think you are going to find the washer any where but Husqvarna, if you have to order it you might as well order a new drive wheel as well.
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2014, 12:10:36 pm »
If you order the pump drive make sure you order the exact one you have. HVA have two versions of the pump drive, the one like yours and a newer style with only one ear. I have never been able to get the new style to work properly on older pumps designed for the style your saw uses.
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

Thomas Jefferson
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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2014, 01:46:46 pm »
The missing washer is P# 503 23 00-59 is $3.40.
The pump drive gear is P# 503 75 61-02 is $13.61.
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

Thomas Jefferson
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Offline winland

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Re: 371xp Oiler question
« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2014, 05:50:19 pm »
Ordered the parts, hope to get it back together first of next week.

Question, will running a chainsaw when the oiler is not working properly or sufficiently, cause the bar to heat up and pinch the chain?
This appears to be what has happened to the 24" bar that was on the 371.
Anyway to correct the gauge of the bar?

 

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