Author Topic: Can't split the case  (Read 618 times)

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Offline lwalper

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Can't split the case
« on: September 28, 2013, 10:21:47 pm »
I'm working on a Husky 365 (1998 model). The saw seized solid so I took the top end off thinking the piston was seized in the jug and would be an easy fix. Not so. The rod bearing seems to be completely shot so am needing to split the case and go through the bottom end as well.

That's the problem. I've got all the screws out and have slipped a knife in the gasket material all the way around the case. The case halves are loose and will come about the distance of the gasket (or just a bit farther) apart, but no more than that. how do I get the case apart? Is there something else holding the thing together? -- or are the crank bearings pressed onto the crank and case requiring a bit more heave-ho? I just don't want to break the case prying on it. ???

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2013, 10:30:09 pm »
The main bearings are a interference fit on both the crank and within the bearing pockets of the case.

The factory puller looks like a C-clamp that pushes on the end of the crank and pulls on the inside of the case at the bearing.

Warming up (with a hot air gun) the side of the case (around the bearing) you are working on helps to get the case half off
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Offline lwalper

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2013, 10:37:13 pm »
WOW! That was quick. I've got a puller and will try a little heat too. Thanks!!

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #3 on: September 29, 2013, 10:47:58 am »
There is also a tool that will help you pull the crank into the bearings after you have put the new bearings in the case. Husqvarna part number 502 50 30-15. This tool makes it very easy to get the crank into the bearings, eliminates any side thrust on the bearings and can be used to align the crank properly in the case. There are a couple of other tools that make the seals very easy to install.

Be VERY CAREFUL when disassembling the case especially on the oil pump/clutch side! Under the oil pomp there is a large flat washer that keeps the drive wheel from eating up the seal. There is a large bushing that the oil pump drive wheel rides on. Under that there is an o-ring (a very fine and fragile one) Do not loose or damage it. It is part 503 26 30-19 in the attached file.
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Offline lwalper

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2013, 11:15:25 am »
Thanks, I'll bear those tips in mind.

The case is split, crank bearings out (one of them ran like sand), gasket surface cleaned. Now, to the crank--how to get it apart. The rod bearings are shot!

And, in the rebuild should I go with the OEM piston/cylinder or try the big-bore 52mm set? I've seen some folks report that the 1998 model case will not tolerate the HP/torque increase of the larger set, but need the 1999 "special" and newer models for that.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2013, 12:08:01 pm »
You don't take the crank apart and replace the the rod bearings.

You get another good or a new crankshaft/rod assembly
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2013, 12:09:35 pm »
The weak part of the early crankcase is around the bar studs. It has nothing to do with more power
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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2013, 12:12:24 pm »
The crank will be problematic, as it takes a crankshaft shop to do the work properly, and it will be expensive! Probably more than a new OEM crank and rod will cost you. You can buy the crank OEM for 214$ from parts tree. There are different part numbers for the cranks in 365/372 saws but they are all the same. Sometimes you can find an OEM crank used on eBay or you might be able to get a used crank from a builder like myself.

I have a bunch of them right now for around 100$ plus ship if you are interested.

I have put BB kits on lots of 365 bottom ends without problem. The hot setup for a BB kit is use a 52mm Stihl piston instead of the one supplied with the kit. It is 1.5mm taller than the BB piston and will give much higher compression. You have to do a little metal removal from the inside shoulders of the pin boss but no big deal. You can then adjust squish by using copper shim stock for a gasket.
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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2013, 12:20:25 pm »
OBTW, 660MAGNUM is correct on the case weakness being in the bar mount area, same goes for the early 362 saws.  ;D

I use the Hyway BB kits when I do them from hlsproparts, and the Meteor version of the Sthil piston. You don't have to use copper for a gasket. You can buy gasket material in many different thicknesses from NAPA auto parts, you should be looking for a squish between .018 and .022!
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Can't split the case
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2013, 12:33:10 pm »
You can get a good used crank out of 362xp 365 371 372 jonsered 2063 2065 2171 to use for 50 or under most times.
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