Author Topic: Hursqvarna 236e chain snagging/stopping  (Read 404 times)

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Offline hugo

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Hursqvarna 236e chain snagging/stopping
« on: February 25, 2014, 10:06:15 am »
Hi all,

Hi first of all,  hope I am not on here too much trying to find help,  rather just maintenance tips.  However...

first visit is for a poor cutting action. (Hursqvarna 236e)

I always sharpen my chain before I start cutting, 6/7 strokes of the file and take any burrs off the outside of the teeth.  It is a new ish saw,  not much used till recently and it revs freely when started.

The problem I am having is when cutting larger logs,  maybe 10" in diameter,  fine for the bar length.  It cuts into the log fine but soon seems to find cutting hard and grinds to a halt,  but the saw is still running.  I have to turn the log and attack it from all sides to cut through.

I am getting oil through,  clean the area around the bar clamp,  but not every time,  and the air filter looks ok.

Is the problem I am just not getting the chain sharp enough or is it that the logs are blunting the chain quickly??  The chain does seem to get very hot to the touch and the cuts produce chips of wood when it cuts.

Many thanks,

Hugo

ps

should I be cleaning round the bar clamp everytime I use it or every few times??
is there anything I could try to improve things??

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Offline Philbert

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2014, 10:32:22 am »
Welcome to the forum!

Your saw should cut cleanly through the log. When you say the saw is 'still running', you mean that your finger is still on the trigger and the motor is still turning, but the chain stops?  That could be a clutch/drum problem.

Otherwise, it sounds like a chain problem. Don't take offense, but 6-7 file strokes doesn't mean anything if they are not in the right place. If you can post clear, close up photos of your chain cutters, people can comment.

If you try a new chain we can maybe pinpoint your problem or rule it out.

Philbert

Offline fordrocks

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2014, 10:42:21 am »
Sounds like it could also be an oiling problem if the chain is getting hot. Have you cleaned out the groove in the bar that the chain rides in, and make sure the holes in the bar where the oil goes through are clear.

Offline hugo

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2014, 10:58:50 am »
Thanks for the replies,

Will re sharpen tomorrow as raining here at the moment and post a close up pic of a tooth when I have sharpened it.  I sharpen at the correct angle shown on the file guide and level,  so don't think they are too far out.  I cleaned out the chain clamp are a few days ago and cleaned the groove of the bar out also. 

However,  where are the holes within the bar for lubrication??  Are they just the two large holes in the bar about 1/4" in diameter or are there others I need to locate ??

Regards,

Hugo

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2014, 11:05:24 am »
Should be in either side of the bar and line up with the oil delivery tube in the saw when the bar is in place.
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

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Offline gunrac

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2014, 12:22:21 pm »
Thanks for the replies,

Will re sharpen tomorrow as raining here at the moment and post a close up pic of a tooth when I have sharpened it.  I sharpen at the correct angle shown on the file guide and level,  so don't think they are too far out.  I cleaned out the chain clamp are a few days ago and cleaned the groove of the bar out also. 

However,  where are the holes within the bar for lubrication??  Are they just the two large holes in the bar about 1/4" in diameter or are there others I need to locate ??

Regards,

Hugo

Try to get some pics of your bar, showing the channel and nose.  Also, your sprocket.

Offline aclarke

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2014, 01:39:07 pm »
Burrs on bar, unequal cutters and or rakers will cause that issue too

Offline hugo

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Re: chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2014, 02:02:04 pm »
Hi all,

cleaned it in the kitchen in the end so could put some pics up for you,  but don't tell the wife lol

took cover off and cleaned up to this



cover cleaned to this



I take it that the black strip is where the oil is sent to the chain through?



As for the bar and holes,  the sprocket hole was clear and I could see the sprocket through it and the bar holes were clean like this 





I gave the chain a re sharpen.  Before



after











Tension on the chain was like this



I files some small burrs from the bar too,  first time I have done this tbh.

Oil seems to be getting to the chain as all is oily under the cover and the chain is too.  I did a few cuts on some 6" logs and it does seem to be cutting better so might have been a cleanliness and sharpness problem,  but it did snag once. I am not sure if it was me tilting the saw and therefore snagged it that way but really need to get a bigger log tomorrow and test it.

Does all look ok for my cleaning and sharpening regime??

What is the raker distances you are talking about ??


many thanks again,

Hugo

Offline Philbert

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Re: Hursqvarna 236e chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2014, 02:40:04 pm »
Quote
. . .cleaned it in the kitchen in the end so could put some pics up for you,  . . . .I take it that the black strip is where the oil is sent to the chain through?

Very clean saw!  Helpful photos.  Yes, there is a hole in that slot where the oil comes through.  It empties into that slot because the bar moves forward and back with the adjustment, and it has to align with a hole in the bar.  Keep both clean with a toothpick.  The hole in the bar nose is for greasing the nose sprocket - that is a separate topic (some guys do, some guys don't).

Quote
I gave the chain a re sharpen. . . I files some small burrs from the bar too,  first time I have done this tbh.

It does not look like you are filing the cutting edges - they still look dull.  It is a common mistake to file the gullet of the cutter, instead of the top plate and side plate edges that actually do the cutting.  You should see clean, new metal on both these edges after you file, and not be able to see the reflected light visible in your photos. Compare your sharpened chain edges to a new chain for reference.

Check out the illustrations in this manual:
http://www.oregonproducts.com/maintenance/manual.htm (pages 2-3, 32-41)

I would encourage you to not file off any burrs on the teeth after sharpening.  They come right off as soon as you cut, and you may be damaging your new edge when you try to do this with a file or stone.  Filing burrs off of the bar edges is a good maintenance practice.

Also, pay attention to getting each tooth, on both sides, the same length and same angles.  Most guys are stronger on one side or the other, and end up with unequal cutters that cut rough, or pull to one side.

Quote
What is the raker distances you are talking about ??

"Raker' is a misleading term.  It is really a 'depth gauge', which controls how deep of a cut/how large of a chip you will make with each pass of the cutter.  If the depth gauge is too high, you will not cut much at all, even with razor sharp cutters.  If the depth gauge is too low, the chain will dig in and try to tear the wood, bogging down and giving a rough cut.

On your chain, you want to set the depth gauge at 0.025" below the top plate cutting edge.  See Oregon manual above.

Philbert

P.S. - here is an illustration I posted in another thread which may be helpful.

Offline aclarke

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Re: Hursqvarna 236e chain snagging/stopping
« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2014, 03:11:29 pm »
What size file are you using? Try a 5/32"

 

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