Chainsaw Repair

Newby maintenance question here (I've not done much maintenance beyond cleaning/swapping filters, deburring bars, sharpening chains, and replacing a recoil spring).

My cousin has a 455 with a badly worn spur sprocket. I'd like to replace this with the rim sprocket style. I've heard of folks doing this with an impact wrench (and not bothering with a piston stop, or the rope trick). I assume you need a clutch removal tool to do this, so you have something to put the impact wrench on.

Is using an impact wrench a bad idea? Is it likely to cause damage? (Yes, I know it's left hand thread.) When replacing the drum, I assume I do not want to use an impact wrench - possibly more likely to damage than when installing. I'm wondering of it's necessary to really torque this back on, or if just normal use will tighten it up, since it's a left hand thread. Is that correct?

Does Husky use the same removal tool across a range of saws?  I currently have a Jonsered 2152 and a Husky 357XP, both of which wil need a rim sprocket replaced before too long. When one of these finally dies, I'll probably replace it with a 550XP or a 555/562XP depending on which saw craps out. Do any of these use the same removal tool?

I don't mind using a hammer and old screwdriver with a rope in the sparkplug hole to remove the old drum, but if the impact wrench is safe, and since I'm planning on doing this myself from now on, rather than paying someone else, the ease of just firing up an impact wrench for removal sure sounds interesting.

Are there other things I should be doing while the drum is off? Replace the bearing? Check condition of oiler parts (all saws seem to be oiling well at this point)?  See if I can figure out why my 2152 has leaked bar oil when stored since it was new?

I use the special clutch removal tools.  This video shows 'an alternative' method with a screwdriver, if you are willing to take a chance - of course, he is doing this on a brand new saw, so things always go better (occurs around 3:17):   
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAtqBtAbmGE 

Note that if you are changing from a spur to a rim sprocket, you may also need to change your oil pump gear, as the end of the spur or splines drives this gear.  This was an unexpected surprise on my Husqvarna 353.

Philbert

I certainly wouldn't pound on that clutch where he did, if you look just below his screwdriver in the vid you will see an angled notch in the clutch, this is what I always use, I have never seen one come off that easy, most take 5 or 10 sharp smacks with the hammer, if you hit that point where he did it will break or deform.
  I don't use a piston stop, I just bring it up to comp and use a short punch & hammer, a punch is better than a screwdriver
as it absorbs less of the hammers energy.
 A piston stop or rope would be better but I never have one handy.

  John

       

I certainly wouldn't pound one that clutch where he did, if you look just below his screwdriver in the vid you will see an angled notch in the clutch, this is what I always use,  . . . a punch is better than a screwdriver . . .

Agreed!

I carry some short lengths of cord with my CS tools, and have clutch removal tools for my saws - might not have them so someone else's.  Boot lace sounds like a good way to improvise in the field. Although, last time, I ended shearing off one end of the cord in the exhaust port - ended up having to pull the muffler to recover it!

Philbert

What about putting it back on? Am I correct in thinking I can just snug it up as tight as I can by hand, then cut some wood to tighten it the rest of the way?