Author Topic: Clutch drum removal ?  (Read 449 times)

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Offline old guy

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2015, 04:37:36 pm »
Yup, me too.

  John

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2015, 04:39:30 pm »
Be sure and put everything all together and stick it into some wood right away.

I've heard all kinds of clutch flying off stories.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2015, 05:16:10 pm »
Thanks, guys.  Now I just need to do a bit of research on whether there are parts to swap to drive the oiler properly, an dI should be ready to go.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2015, 05:41:40 am »
What about putting it back on? Am I correct in thinking I can just snug it up as tight as I can by hand, then cut some wood to tighten it the rest of the way?

That's it exactly..........and is also why it's a bad idea to run the saw without a b/c..............especially if you haven't ran it with a chain since installing the clutch.  They can and will spin right off and do bad things.....
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline wild262

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #14 on: July 14, 2015, 10:22:34 am »
Good advice from everyone here.  I made me a clutch removal socket from a used deep well 1/2" drive socket.   Used a commercial  one from my neighbor many years ago and got an idea and copied it and made my own.  Easy to do.  I regulate my impact drivers psi down to 40-60lbs. and go up from there if I need more force.  Most of the time it don't take a lot.  I use the starter pulley rope and it works good so far.  Have to be careful with ported saws as it likes to find its way in one of them.  Bring your piston to almost TDC before inserting the rope, and it will prevent this.   Never tried the screwdriver method and don't think I need to.   Stick it in wood as was said earlier and you should be good to go. 

Offline aclarke

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2015, 11:09:27 am »
Start the saw with the chain brake on to avoid having the clutch gly off if you're not tightening the clutch with a wrench

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #16 on: July 27, 2015, 10:44:25 am »
Thank for all the advice, everyone. I finally got back out for a visit and swapped the clutch drum. I used a punch and hammer in the slots designed for that, and it came off after half a dozen raps. Did not need the rope in the piston. I did not need to replace the oiler gear.

I put some grease on the bearing and wiped a bit on the bore of the clutch drum and on the crankshaft, put it all back together and cut some wood right off the bat to tighten things up. Everything went as expected, and it's working fine. I showed the owner how to do it while I was at it, so he can replace the rim sprocket next time it's needed. (Owner's son is a bit hard on saws, and likes to keep cutting with a dull chain, so he puts wear on things faster than might otherwise be expected. I've given him a few sharpening lessons, but the need for it doesn't seem to have sunken in yet.)

Offline wild262

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #17 on: July 27, 2015, 12:50:16 pm »
If the boy is getting in the dirt with it, then recommend him to get a semi-chisel chain till he learns.  May cut down on the sharpening some, and will be much better on the saw.  Mostly, he needs to be safe, and the first step is allways use a sharp chain & learn how to keep it that way.  I got 4 grandsons to teach someday soon.  What fun  :)

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clutch drum removal ?
« Reply #18 on: July 27, 2015, 02:48:45 pm »
I suspect the problem is less about the type of chain he is using, and more a matter of him noticing that it's dull and choosing to do something about it. All of the other pointers I've given him he's taken to quickly (using PPE; looking for overhead hazards before starting work; waiting for a moment after the tree falls and re-looking for hazards, rather than just charging in; having clear escape route planned prior to felling; avaoiding use of the kickback zone of the bar). For some reason, sharpening just hasn't stuck with him.

 

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