Author Topic: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE  (Read 548 times)

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Offline Gregg MacPherson

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Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« on: February 22, 2014, 05:45:18 pm »
I just bought a 254SE to either fix or use for parts for my 154.   The 254 has some cylinder scoring and maybe some galling or metal transfer from the piston.  I'd like to try dressing that with wet and dry or emry paper,  but it's hard to know without experience whether the cylinder damage is too bad.   

It's really hard to usefully photograph.  There is some scoring and galling or metal transfer above the exhaust port.  The scatches don't look too deep.  Just below the exhaust port there is some heavier looking scoring and galling. Just below the main inlet port there are a couple of deep,  short scratches.  If all this is dressed of level with sand paper and my compression is good,  are we OK,  even if some scratches remain,  below the finished level?

To dress the cylinder I was going to wrap the paper around a tube slightly smaller than the cylinder.

I don't know how this damage happened.   Running too lean,  not enough oil in the fuel?  Can the bearings or seals be damaged at the same time,  or does the piston,  cylinder damage stop things before that happens.

Cheers,
Gregg.

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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2014, 05:59:33 pm »
Look here for how one builder does it:

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid/

His technique works quite well! The scotch brite trick really works like a charm!
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

Thomas Jefferson
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Offline Gregg MacPherson

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2014, 09:53:30 pm »
Thanks.  That was an interesting watch.   Seems like it's the hard layer of chrome is what makes this work.

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2014, 09:59:43 pm »
You are correct, sir!
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

Thomas Jefferson
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Offline aclarke

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2014, 11:19:11 pm »
Keep in mind that if the chrome is compromised down to the base metal the acid isn't a good idea. Use a Dremel or like with a rubberized diamond wheel (fine) to remove the aluminum.  Works well without chewing up the chrome if done with care

Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2014, 01:06:36 am »
Keep in mind that if the chrome is compromised down to the base metal the acid isn't a good idea. Use a Dremel or like with a rubberized diamond wheel (fine) to remove the aluminum.  Works well without chewing up the chrome if done with care

How about using craytex.   
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline aclarke

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2014, 11:01:41 am »
I've always used Craytex wheels...

Offline SawTroll

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2014, 04:16:24 pm »
Finding the reason for the scorching is very important. There is little point in fixing the top end, unless what caused the damage is eliminated!

Offline Gregg MacPherson

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2014, 04:36:00 pm »
Finding the reason for the scorching is very important. There is little point in fixing the top end, unless what caused the damage is eliminated!

In the case of the 254 I just got,  the owner says he got the saw like that,  which may be true.   So I don't have any given history.   How can one find out?

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Cylinder scoring, sanding, 254SE
« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2014, 05:36:47 pm »
Well you probably should get used to removing the muffler before disassembling the saw to see what cylinder/piston damage there is. Then do a pressure/vacuum test. You can use some sort of soap and water mix to spray onto the seals, around the crankcase and everywhere else the case could leak, including the cylinder base and decomp valve as well as the input tract. When you put pressure into the saw the soapy water will bubble up around the leaking air.

Finding the reason for the scorching is very important. There is little point in fixing the top end, unless what caused the damage is eliminated!
"When the people fear the government...you have tyranny....When the government fears the people....you have liberty"

Thomas Jefferson
1743-1826

 

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