Author Topic: First Project - 357xp  (Read 4261 times)

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Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #20 on: October 29, 2012, 08:03:06 am »
This is how i ended up plugging the decomp fitting.  I zapped it with my mig welder, then pushed it back into the cylinder.  Hopefully this attachment works.
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #21 on: October 29, 2012, 08:19:14 am »
Here is the big crack in the bottom of the auto decomp line. 

I was able to replace the fuel line easily without removing the tank.  Once the carb was off, the carb support plate came off easily which allowed me to access where the line exits the tank.

Here's what i did:
Put on manual decomp valve
Replaced intake partition
Replaced impulse line
Replaced fuel line + filter
Replaced fuel cap
Cleaned it up the best i could

I re-assembled and tried running the saw.  The same problems persist.  The saw will kick over in a few pulls with the choke out. Once the choke is disengaged, the saw starts in high idle, runs for a few seconds then dies.

I believe the saw is getting plenty of fuel.  The plug is very wet with fuel, and when i crank it over, it puffs out fuel vapor from the exhaust. 

I tried removing the limiter cap.  I removed the plastic piece surrounding the adjustment screws, thinking this would take away the limiters.  It didn't.  The adjustment screws are still limited.  Do i need to cut the moulded high spots off the sides of the adjustment screws so they can turn beyond the factory range?

I bought a pressure/vacuum fitting for the saw, so i am going to try my first vacuum test to see if i can find any other air leaks. 

I have to go out and look again, but i'm fairly sure the carb is a Walbro.  It looks like the carbs are pretty expensive.  So, i'd like to make sure it's the problem before i buy one. 

Anything else i should look for?

Thanks.


Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline 660magnum

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #22 on: October 29, 2012, 11:14:01 am »
I cut the tabs from the sides of the limiter caps with my pocket knife.

If you pull the limiters off the needles, you ruin them and then you can not adjust the needles with the engine running

You can buy new limiters from husky but you then have to cut the tabs from them also.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2012, 11:57:50 am »
Ok, i just performed my first ever vacuum/pressure test on a saw. 

I used a piece of rubber to block off the exhaust port
I also managed to block off the intake boot, where the carb connects successfully (this part wasn't easy).

The saw held 10psi pressure for over a minute.  Similar for vacuum.  Does this successfully eliminate the possibility of air leaks?

So, does that leave only the carburetor?  What is my next step?

Should i first cut off the limiters off the carb needle screws and try that? 

I verified that this is a Walbro carb.

If that fails, should i try rebuilding this carb, or spring for a Zama?  If so, where should i get the Zama? 

Thanks,
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline 660magnum

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2012, 02:15:50 pm »
The saws seems to have passed the pressure vacuum test OK.

By all means . . . Cut the limiter tabs from your needle valves
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2012, 05:58:23 pm »
Well, the saw runs! 

I cut the limiters off the carb needle screws, and decided that, while i had it out, i would disasemble and clean the carb.  It didnt take too long, and went back together easily.  The diaphragm was in good shape, as were the reed valves. There was a bit of junk built up in a few spots, that came off easily with carb cleaner.

Put it all back together and it fired right up.

However, when adjusting the carb, i noticed a pretty nasty rattle.  Sounds to me like a bearing.

Here is a video, if i can get it to work.

http://youtu.be/0VYjpqRd2XA

What does this sound like to you guys?
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #26 on: October 30, 2012, 06:05:58 pm »
Here is another.  This is just pulling the starter cord with the decompression valve open.

http://youtu.be/a5w5Ai0oV4s

Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline mweba

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #27 on: October 30, 2012, 06:56:10 pm »
Is there a gasket under the cylinder?  Was the squish checked?  Sounds like the piston is tapping the cylinder but hard to tell from vid.

Offline Magnus

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #28 on: October 31, 2012, 05:17:23 am »
Could be shot wrist pin bearing.

Only one way to see...
Chainsaw nut!

Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #29 on: October 31, 2012, 07:09:06 am »
Ok, i have a plan.

First i'm going to run the saw without the clutch to verify that the clutch isn't making the noise.  I have read that a weak clutch spring can do this.  I also noticed that while tuning, it was difficult to make the engine idle without the chain surging forward a little.  Any reason i should not do this?

If this doesn't work, im going to order up some more parts and tools. 

Questions:
- The service manual says "press out the gudgeon pin".  Does this require any special tools, or will it just slide out by hand?

I'll probably get another base gasket and wrist pin bearing. 

Anything else i should get while i'm at it?
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

 

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