Author Topic: First Project - 357xp  (Read 3415 times)

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Offline fatboycowen

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First Project - 357xp
« on: October 12, 2012, 06:53:18 am »
This is my first post here, but i have been lurking for quite a while.   I also lurk at some of the other saw forums, but i decided to try posting here first due to the nature of the post (repair). Plus, i like the layout of the forum, and most of the posts seem informative.

I'm pretty much a noob compared to most of you.  But, i have this unexplainable addiction to saws. 

Anyway, i've been looking for a cheap saw to tinker with, so that i can learn the ins and outs.  So, i have been searching craigslist for something reasonable to add to my collection.  I started on Husqvarna, so i have been sticking with them, even though i have nothing against Stihl saws or other brands. 

I found a 357xp locally.  Seller says it won't idle and may need a carb and fuel lines.  I went to see, pulled the plug and muffler, and the piston/cylinder look excellent.  No signs of scoring. I offered $75 and got it.  All plastic is in good shape (one small crack in upper plastic piece).  Saw came with a nice condition 18" bar and almost new Stihl 3/8 chain.  Saw had a new looking plug and filter.  Fuel lines in the tank look good (to my untrained eye)

I tinkered with it a little last night. Pulled the bar and chain.  Sprocket was in good shape (good sign i hope?). 

I think it has a significant air leak.  With the exhaust off, plug in (wire off), when cranking the saw, you can hear a hissing sound which sounds like it is coming from the rear (carb) or side.  I pulled out my 345 and, under the same conditions, the hissing noise is not present. 

Questions: 
How do i identify the date of this saw?  I can see the tag under the handle.  I suspect it's an 03.
What's the next step?  This is as far as i have disasembled a saw yet.  I'm thinking i'll pull the carb, take it apart to clean it, and look for an air leak. 

Let me know if you guys are willing to walk me through this first project of mine, or if i should look elsewhere.  Just looking to learn and have a bit of fun with it.  I'm fired up to get into this thing. 

I'll try to post up some pics tonight if i can figure out how.

Thanks in advance.
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2012, 07:10:49 am »
If you post the numbers from the tag behind the front bar on the chain side, one of us can tell you what year it is but you are most likely correct already.

If the impulse and fuel lines do not have holes in them, it usually requires a crankcase pressure check to find the leak?

You can get the Illustrated Parts Manual from the Husqvarna USA website.

Some of us  have a copy of the Workshop Manual that can be sent over Email. It might also be available from a website?

Make sure the compression release is not leaking.
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Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2012, 07:36:39 am »
Ok, i downloaded the IPL from Husqvarna and went on parts tree to identify the parts.  The decompression valve may be what is leaking.  My saw has the decompression valve 537128-05, which has the banjo fitting and hose attached.  I don't really know how this works.  The hissing does sound like it is coming from there.

How do i do a crankcase pressure test?  Do i need special tools? I have a mity-vac, compressor, etc.  Most of my tools are car related.
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline 660magnum

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2012, 10:21:56 am »
First of all I would get rid of the automatic decompression valve and put a manual one in there.

Those automatic decompression valves were something that didn't work out for Husqvarna and was replaced by a manual one on the later 357's.

Get the correct number for the manual valve from a later model 357 IPL

You may not have any other problem? Let's wait and see?
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2012, 11:05:48 am »
The is another thing that was problematic on Husqvarna chainsaws of that era.

The clamp for the rubber carburetor boot at the cylinder was a plastic snap on affair.

The clamp tends to unsnap and the rubber boot then leaks at the cylinder causing all kinds of air leak symptoms.

The fix is to replace the plastic one with a later metal one. But it is not that simple for there is extra plastic on the baffle plate that must be removed for the metal clamp to fit properly or else by the later baffle plate that was used with the metal clamp.
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Offline farmboy

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2012, 11:11:14 am »
When you replace the auto decomp valve you will need to plug the fitting @ the bottom of the cylinder.  Follow the hose down to the bottom of the cylinder.
Shep

Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2012, 08:12:03 pm »
I made some progress tonight.

I pulled the decomp valve off my 345 and it fit in the 357 nicely.  I plugged the hole in the hose temporarily and tried it. Note that i didn't plug it at the bottom, so it's possible that the hose has a leak.  What should i use to plug that hole permanently? 

The saw starts with the choke on.  Once the choke is off, the saw starts again, revs up and dies.  I tried changing the idle speed screw and low speed screw in multiple positions, with no luck.  Same symptoms, but different start up speed. 

I then put it back on the work bench and started tinkering again.  I found the fuel line from the carb to tank is very **** and leaking.  So, how do i go about replacing it?  Do i have to pull the tank?  Should i replace the other line while i am in there?  That one looks more difficult to access.

I pulled the carb.  It looks pretty clean.  I may disasemble it and clean it.  Should I?  Do they make a carb rebuild kit for this carb? 

Another problem is that the fuel tank leaks.  The saw has the older style fuel cap, which i like better than the new.  Do they sell the o-ring for this? 

Also, the saw has the older style (i think) limiters on the carb adjustments.  There is a one piece cap that covers both screws.  What is the best way to remove the limiters on this saw?

The clamp at the cylinder is plastic as mentioned.  I don't know if there is a leak yet. 

I have a few dealers nearby, but i've never visited them.  Do dealers typically carry parts like this (decomp valve, fuel hose, filter, etc)? 

Thanks again. 

Jon
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline 660magnum

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2012, 08:26:26 pm »
I would start with looking closely at the parts list you downloaded plus I would download the newest parts list too.

Some people can get the fuel line in the tank with the tank just dropped down in the rear but you may as well take it all the way off?

While you are there, you want to change the fuel filter too. It is on the end of the fuel line.

You will need to remove the top handle before taking the tank off. There is a limiter screw in behind the clutch cover that will need to be taken off also to get the tank to drop down.

I wouldn't mess with the carb too much until I got the other things fixed?

You can get new O-rings for the old style caps but the new caps have a ribbed flat rubber gasket that goes around the caps

On the needle valve limiters, all that stuff will pull off if you look at the parts list carefully.

Do you have the repair manual yet?

You can PM me with your Email address and I can send the file to you?
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Offline fatboycowen

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2012, 08:52:34 am »
I was able to find the repair manual.  I've read through it.  I used it to help pull the carb.

I'm putting together an order at Jack's Small Engine now.

Question:  From the diagrams, it appears that there are two separate hoses from the tank to the carb.  Is this correct?  There is a spiral hose in the tank (with filter), but i can't tell if it stops at a fitting somewhere inside or just outside the tank, or if it is the same piece of hose that goes to the carb. The diagrams show 2 seperate pieces. If that's true, the only cracks i can see are in the hose outside the tank.  Maybe i'll have to do more disassembly before i order. 

On my order i have:
Manual Decompression valve
New fuel cap
Fuel Filter
Fuel Hose 544325002
Fuel Hose 503400602
Partition wall intake 537251302 (comes with the metal clamp)
Impulse hose 544325101

Anything else i should order while i'm there? 

Big thanks for the help so far.  This is fun stuff.
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

Offline Cut4fun

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Re: First Project - 357xp
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2012, 09:10:31 am »
The fuel line comes out of the tank through the carb base and connects to the carb. All 1 line.

 

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