Author Topic: Husky 272 FlyWheel  (Read 202 times)

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Offline Cat-Face Timber

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Husky 272 FlyWheel
« on: March 20, 2015, 10:29:21 am »
I need a Husky 272XP Flywheel.

When looking for one, I found there are different part numbers for a flywheel that "looks" exactly like the one I need.
Does the part numbers have to match exactly?
What do you think of AM Flywheels?

thanks!
MIGHTY HUSKY 235
BESTEST SAW EVER!

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2015, 12:51:09 pm »
One of the places I buy parts at says this on their 272 flywheel OEM.

NOTE: 3 DIFFERENT FLYWHEELS WERE USED ON THESE MODELS. PLEASE PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE PICTURES AND PART NUMBERS TO ENSUE PROPER FITMENT.

I dont know these well enough so I would be replacing with same part # it came with or took off.
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Offline Cat-Face Timber

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2015, 12:54:52 pm »
Thank you so much!
I think I will do that!

MIGHTY HUSKY 235
BESTEST SAW EVER!

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2015, 02:49:21 pm »
I knew there were different starters and pulleys for the various saws in these series (including a special setup for the 268K demo saw and the  stump grinder based on the 272XP), but didn't know that there were three flywheels.  Something to keep an eye on when building a saw from a buncha parts (as I often do).  Thanks CFT for bringing this up, and thanks for the info Kevin.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Spike60

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2015, 07:02:14 am »
I'm only aware of 2 flywheels for the 272, (and most XP Husky's for that matter.) There's the standard flywheel on regular models and then the "G" flywheel for the saws with heated handles. The flywheels for the "G" models have internal magnets and are cut a little different so the stator will fit under it.

There may be a 3rd for the "K" saws, but I don't mess with stone saws so I really don't know.
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Offline EHP

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2015, 08:22:07 am »
Am thinking what there talking about is the keyway , older 272 use a steel keyway where the newest ones have the keyway molded into the flywheel

Offline Spike60

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2015, 09:34:13 am »
Ed is on track here, and it gets a little involved. Found a service bulletin from 1994 that explains what went on. I didn't know about this myself.

Models 61, 268, 272 are covered. There was a different flywheel AND a different crankshaft and ignition module at this time. The new flywheel has a different taper along with the cast key and can only mate with the new crankshaft.

The new and old coils are interchangeable, but they state that use of the old coil with the new flywheel could cause some backfiring when starting as was discovered with the 61 which got the new flywheel at the end of 1993.

Changes in this SB took place:

61: 4211130 (just the new coil)
268: 4261951
272: 4270001
272G: 4310001
Husqvarna-Jonsered

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2015, 03:10:54 pm »
Very interesting.  Now I need to check the SN on my 272XP.  Haven't had the FW off of it yet, so I don't know if it has a keyway or a cast in key.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline EHP

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2015, 09:20:38 pm »
we found out cause on the alcohol piped race 272's that had the molded key way built into the flywheel would sheer off where the older steel key that fit to the crank and flywheel would not

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Husky 272 FlyWheel
« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2015, 09:29:19 pm »
Before today I wasn't even aware that there was a cast-in key FW or a different matching crank for it.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

 

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