Author Topic: Husqvarna 268  (Read 18622 times)

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #160 on: October 17, 2016, 07:17:57 pm »
Parts came in from Jacks small engine today. Installed and tested good.
Owner suppose to pick up tomorrow to give it a hard run with 20+ downed trees.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #161 on: October 19, 2016, 03:40:01 pm »
Owner picked up the saw today. Gave me a a 6'er for tip.  ;D :P

Also I took some pics of it comparing side to side and top to top with my 475.  Same way I did the 445 440 372 pics.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #162 on: October 19, 2016, 04:08:56 pm »
268 272 side by side top to top pics with my 475

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Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #163 on: October 19, 2016, 06:44:38 pm »
That 475 looks a little bit fatter.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #164 on: October 19, 2016, 07:08:09 pm »
That 475 looks a little bit fatter.

Yep and is.

Have pics of the 445 440 372 together too.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #165 on: October 19, 2016, 09:13:32 pm »
That 475 looks a little bit fatter.

Yep and is.

Have pics of the 445 440 372 together too.

pics below
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #166 on: October 22, 2016, 08:33:04 pm »
I have seen wear on the seal area of the crank like that before.  Have been able to work around it by seating the seal a bit deeper (check to see that there's room for the seal lip first).

Husky flywheels (at least on 100/200 series, 285/1100/2100/298/2101) always seem to be a **** to remove.  I always have to use a puller on them.  Most others (except old large frame Macs) seem to be more cooperative.  May have something to do with the tapers they use.  Just a SWAG...

So far I have always used OEM seals and o-rings on these.  I usually replace the little oil pump discharge x-ring as already mentioned.  When that leaks, oil dribbles out from under the pump rather than going where it is supposed to.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #167 on: October 22, 2016, 10:55:41 pm »
I have seen wear on the seal area of the crank like that before.  Have been able to work around it by seating the seal a bit deeper (check to see that there's room for the seal lip first).

Husky flywheels (at least on 100/200 series, 285/1100/2100/298/2101) always seem to be a **** to remove.  I always have to use a puller on them.  Most others (except old large frame Macs) seem to be more cooperative.  May have something to do with the tapers they use.  Just a SWAG...

So far I have always used OEM seals and o-rings on these.  I usually replace the little oil pump discharge x-ring as already mentioned.  When that leaks, oil dribbles out from under the pump rather than going where it is supposed to.

I set seal deeper and all good.  Between the marks on crankcase area and the crank wear seal area. Seems I got by both.

What is this x-ring? Is it the small o-ring where it goes into the bar oil tank?
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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #168 on: October 22, 2016, 10:57:21 pm »
Guy told me if it ever needs it crank bearing and split he wants it done. He loves the weight and handling etc of this saw.
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Husqvarna 268 272 questions
« Reply #169 on: October 23, 2016, 04:47:58 am »
That's how I feel about my 266XP and 272XP (and I'm sure I'll feel the same way about my 268XP after I rebuild it).

The 1/2"-ish diameter rubber bit that goes into the oil tank is the flange end of the pickup tube.  You can pull it out of the hole in the tank when the pump is removed.

The tiny 1/4"-ish diameter square-ish section rubber ring on the little roll pin sticking out of the backside of the oil pump body is the X-ring.  It has an X cross section (basically a square cross section with a shallow groove around the OD and another within the ID).  It seals the pump discharge port against a hole in the case that feeds a passage that leads to the bar oil feed slot in the bar mount pad.  Damn thing costs $3-$4 or so, but is important to replace if old and gummy.
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