Author Topic: Husqvarna 372 XP (Read 6558 times)

Hill Billy · « **on:** December 30, 2012, 08:47:11 pm »

Hello, I was just given this saw because it needs a top and bottom rebuild. It's old owner was told it would run him close to the cost of a new saw to repair, so he bought a new one. Anyway, I have done top end on dirt bikes, but never a saw. I'm looking for a repair manual, hopefully a download, since I got he saw in a box. I would also like some ideas on parts to rebuild the saw ie... $20.00 no name piston kit, something in the middle price range or OEM parts, this goes for the crank also. Lastly, the best place to purchase these parts. Thanks for you help!

660magnum · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2012, 09:20:33 pm »

Look in your mail, I just sent you a workshop manual and a illustrated parts list

Hill Billy · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2012, 02:22:53 am »

Thanks for the info, any thoughts on best bang for your buck parts?

Cut4fun · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2012, 06:37:19 am »

Do you have the older xp 50mm with de-comp out side of cylinder or the newer 50mm xp XT with de-comp on the top of cylinder going through top cover?

Lot of cylinders can be clean up, pistons too. Pics?

660magnum · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2012, 09:25:28 am »

I have some of the ones with the decompression button on the chain side. They run pretty good as stock. Maybe a second port on the muffler?

Hill Billy · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2012, 12:02:08 pm »

Thanks to all for the service manuals.
The piston skirt on the intake side was broken, about 4-5mm across and 2-3 mm up the skirt, so it's an ash tray. However the jug seems to be ok, no gouges or any thing that jumps out at me. I would like to clean some of the carbon from the inside top of the cylinder and be sure. It's a "MAHLE" cylinder with the De-Comp on the side. Are these coated, so I should not hone the jug. I do still see some cross-hatch in their. Piston is 50mm. Once I split the case I'll know about the crank, but I'm think to replace as a kit.

Chris J. · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2012, 12:22:00 pm »

Disclaimer--I've never seen, handled, or used a Meteor piston.

A lot of folks like the Meteor pistons for their quality, but many say use OEM circclips in place of the ones provided by Meteor. I noticed this OEM piston on feePay, it's listed for a Jonsered 2071/2171, but might also be for a 372:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200856942308?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

660magnum · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2012, 12:40:46 pm »

Quote from: Hill Billy on December 31, 2012, 12:02:08 pm

Thanks to all for the service manuals.
The piston skirt on the intake side was broken, about 4-5mm across and 2-3 mm up the skirt, so it's an ash tray. However the jug seems to be ok, no gouges or any thing that jumps out at me. I would like to clean some of the carbon from the inside top of the cylinder and be sure. It's a "MAHLE" cylinder with the De-Comp on the side. Are these coated, so I should not hone the jug. I do still see some cross-hatch in their. Piston is 50mm. Once I split the case I'll know about the crank, but I'm think to replace as a kit.

I wouldn't be doing very much to that cylinder in the way of honing. Run a little fine crocus cloth or wet/dry paper around in it with some oil and then clean it out.

The cylinder is most likely chromed. Make sure the worn out broken piston pieces didn't mess up the cylinder or anything else? Get all the pieces out of the bearings and crankcase?

Some of those Chinese pistons look pretty good but you cannot depend on which one you are going to get and they cost just as much as a Meteor.

Chinese rings are terrible. Use caber rings

The Meteor piston can be had in single ring.

The single ring is thicker than the twin rings.

Use the original circlips on the wrist pin.

Hill Billy · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2012, 09:34:47 pm »

wouldn't be doing very much to that cylinder in the way of honing. Run a little fine crocus cloth or wet/dry paper around in it with some oil and then clean it out.

The cylinder is most likely chromed. Make sure the worn out broken piston pieces didn't mess up the cylinder or anything else? Get all the pieces out of the bearings and crankcase?

Some of those Chinese pistons look pretty good but you cannot depend on which one you are going to get and they cost just as much as a Meteor.

Chinese rings are terrible. Use caber rings

The Meteor piston can be had in single ring.

The single ring is thicker than the twin rings.

Use the original circlips on the wrist pin.

Sounds like Meteor pistons are the best deal. Are the single rings better then double?
Who has the best prices on the piston kits? Also, I know the crank bearings are bad, the rod will not make a full turn with much effort. If the crank and rod look ok on inspection would you reuse or just replace the entire crank assembly? If replace, again who has the best product for the best price? Much thanks in advance..

660magnum · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2012, 10:04:16 pm »

I like the idea of the single rings but all my 372's are double ring except one that only has one ring on a double ring piston.

After you get the case split and the crank out, I would carefully inspect the rod/crank bearing. If you feel any roughness you can not clean out or any up down slop at all, it will need to be replaced. Some of the Hong Kong cranks are OK. I would buy from a good place?

The bearings are SKF 6202 C3. I've seen the genuine articles - two for $15 online lately. These will probably come as double shielded or rubber sealed but you can take them off.

There are far eastern gasket and seal kits floating around on a card together from several sources.

People like to buy the Meteor pistons from the Greek from Ebay but many other places sell them too.

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Author Topic: Husqvarna 372 XP (Read 6558 times)

Hill Billy

Husqvarna 372 XP

660magnum

Re: Husqvarna 372 XP

Hill Billy

Re: Husqvarna 372 XP

Cut4fun

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660magnum

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Hill Billy

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Chris J.

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660magnum

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Hill Billy

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660magnum

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