Chainsaw Repair

 41 141 36 142 interchange -   Scotts used  41 says   Fits: Husqvarna 41 36 136 141

Used 41 crankcase https://store.chainsawr.com/products/husqvarna-41-chainsaw-crankcase-chassis-with-bar-stud-set-2

Part: crank case chassis oil tank housing with set of bar studs/bolts. 530069942, 530-069942, 530 06 99-42
Condition: good used/working shape. Has a melted section as pictured, no leaks.

More used http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xhusqvarna+41+crankcase.TRS0&_nkw=husqvarna+41+crankcase&_sacat=0

Might want to update to newer for same $

I am getting ready to put a new carb on a 4218 which has AV and a new oiler in a wood shark 3314 40cc or 42cc cant remember which for the strato. No AV on the 3314.

Have a PP260 42cc AV with missing chain brake metal piece that goes around clutch drum,

I can't seem to work up much enthusiasm for trying to re-glue, unless I make a winter project out of it or something. I did rough up the area with fine grit sandpaper and even tried some PVC primer (lol) as well. out of desperation. Never seen the quick steel epoxy before in my area (eastern KY) before, don't think. I'll look for some the next time I'm in the vicinity of an HD or maybe A-Zone.

There's an older Echo saw, plus a couple of the PP 42cc saws for sale in my area. Echo is a good saw, I believe. I used to have an Echo weed trimmer, and it was outstanding in every respect. I think Echo and Shindaiwa are both made by the same manufacturer in Japan. Don't know a whole lot about the newer PP's. Used to have an older used one, years and years ago, that wasn't much. But I think it was one of the smaller, junkier models, about 32cc's or so. d But did'nt I read somewhere or other that the PP Pro line are now made by Husqvarna or Jonsered? If so, might be worth looking at or trying out. Still a doubter about Poulan though.

Thanks for the suggestion. Using a hot soldering iron to reweld the crack seam is something I hadn't thought of. I think I might very well try that one. If done properly, should the weld / melt seam repair be flush with the surrounding surface, or will there be a depression / groove along the repaired seam? If the latter, should that then be surface coated with an epoxy product, such as the QuickSteel epoxy, do you think?

Yeah, it's probably borderline whether the model 41 is worth much more time and effort to get it going again. I guess it's the "raised poor" frugality in me that makes me want to try again, plus I hate to junk out a saw that was running & cutting fine just because of a crack in some plastic part. But regardless, the 41 won't be my go-to saw around the home again, even if repaired. Just an occasional use backup saw.