Author Topic: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345  (Read 402 times)

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Offline DaveJ

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My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« on: August 21, 2015, 05:53:54 pm »
I realize it's not the best saw but it's served me well for 10 years and I want to see if I can replace the piston/cylinder.
I'm having trouble right off the bat just getting the cyl apart. The shop manual I have saye to just undo the 4 bolts.........Nope!
I've read that the 345 has a clamshell design cylinder. Can someone explain what that means and how do I get it apart?

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Offline dannyupsolate

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2015, 08:46:21 pm »
if I ever work on one I would watch this.   https://youtu.be/pIE0UxzNAHs

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2015, 11:46:58 pm »
Ok I looked at a parts lists and it shows the 345 as a clamshell design.   
Turn the saw upside down and see if there are 4 bolts on the bottom holding the engine in.
Make sure you have the flywheel off, the clutch off and the oiler off first before trying to remove the engine.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline DaveJ

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2015, 12:25:06 am »
Yep that was it. Didn't have to pull the flywheel. Once I realized I needed to take off the handle/tanks assy. it was obvious. The piston is very heavily scored on the exhaust side.

Now where to get parts?

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2015, 12:38:47 am »
Which way you going to rebuild it? Back clammy or use a 350 riser and then bolt on top?
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Offline wild262

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2015, 12:59:35 am »
You have several build options with that saw you know.  You could go back to stock (clamshell).  Or if you want a boost in power, make a 350 out of it.  Last option would be an ultimate 346NE.  Whatever you choice is , just make sure that if you have a black plastic intake clamp, change it out to the updated metal clamp intake assembly.   That has been responsible for frying many of these saws by letting unwanted air in.  If you don't make the change, it will score it again.  I have a half a dozen on the garage floor now with the same problem. And if your muffler bolts are loose all the time, you can put a 346/353 muff. bracket on it to solve that problem.   These are good little homeowner saws once you make the necessary improvements.  Have fun. :)

Offline dannyupsolate

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2015, 02:19:00 am »
next step is see if cylinder will clean up.  some use abrasive some use acid.  maybe new piston,and  rings and intake boot and clamp will get you sawing.  If you want more power cheap asian big bore kits are available as well as high quality aftermarket.

Offline DaveJ

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2015, 10:58:45 am »
Thanks for the advice. I am leaning toward the bigger bore, but feel a little apprehensive about making the rebuild more complicated.
Those $20 aftermarket kits are scary. I have no clue as to which kits are quality. OEM is off the table as they seem to be in the $250 range.  Is there an aftermarket mfr or parts house that I should be looking at?

As far as the cause of the failure, I really don't know. I don't know how to detect an air leak. The intake has the metal clamp and showed no signs of leakage. I am very careful with my fuel. The only thing I can think of is that my loacl saw shop had recently put in a new carb and could have it adjusted too lean.

One more question. Is it a normal thing to pull the crank and service it "while I'm in there"?

Offline Cut4fun .

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: My first piston failure and repair. Husky 345
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2015, 11:18:13 am »
Check the impulse line and the nipple part too. 
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