Author Topic: New project - 385xp  (Read 1201 times)

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Offline fatboycowen

  • 4 cube
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  • Posts: 48
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  • Location: MA
Re: New project - 385xp
« Reply #20 on: February 06, 2013, 08:34:12 am »
Last night i continued to tear the saw down. I removed the clutch (wow, it was on tight). I got the flywheel off. Used a 2 jaw puller, put a light load on it, then gently heated with a propane torch.  It popped off in a few seconds.  Flywheel is good. Flywheel key is present.

Then, i removed the oil pump.  DIRTY!  I found a big problem.  The play i was feeling in the crank was between the crank shaft and the inner bearing race.

When rotating the crank shaft with fingers (very smooth, almost no resistance), the inner race DOES NOT MOVE.  The crank spins inside the inner race.  However, i can easily move the inner race around with my fingers, so the bearing has not seized.  There is noticeable play between the crank and the race.

After removing the piston, i can feel a tiny bit of play in the big end bearing. It's very hard to judge this, especially with my limited experience.

So, i assume this means i need a crank shaft. This thing is turning into a money pit.  It's certainly not worth what i paid for it. But, at least i am learning. My wife is actually encouraging me to spend money on this thing to get it right, believe it or not.

I can get (what i think is an OE) crank shaft for around $220 with bearings and seals.  I already have a line on a meteor piston kit as well. 

Are there any other reasonable options for the crank shaft?  I hesitate to look for a used one.  Are aftermarket cranks even worth considering? I see them on Ebay for around $80.  I don't believe that includes bearings and seals, so that saves me around what, $100?

Thoughts?

The only step left is splitting the crank case. I have to build a tool, so that may take some time. I'll post pictures later when i get them uploaded. 
Jon
Stihl 020T
Husqvarna 345e
Husqvarna 357xp
Husqvarna 562xp
Husqvarna 385xp

 

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