Author Topic: 359 Etech any good?  (Read 662 times)

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Offline aclarke

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2014, 04:23:26 pm »
I'd like to get another one and tweak it a little.  The ones we did on the build off years ago had the 199 and they had tons of power on the top end but ran erratic (lean) on the low side. Ran great after a little carb work!!!

Offline SawTroll

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2014, 08:25:31 pm »

Adam the walbro 175 199 carb IMO is still the way to go if wanting the extra 10% in a cut time for a ported 346 357 359. The zama couldnt feed enough fuel to the better ported saws from testing that the guys were doing. Now if you opened one up like you know how ;).  Maybe?
Zama was fine for stock saws though.

It would of couse have to be a 191 here, as I wouldn't buy a saw that isn't heated!   ;)

Apart from that, my understanding from many years at different saw forums is the same - the Zama is out, for modded saws (it simply has a smaller venturi).

Offline aclarke

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #12 on: June 17, 2014, 10:27:50 pm »
I Think it comes down to really lean factory drill patterns on the Zama and Walbro.  This early generation of saws were some of the first to have to pass much stricter EPA regs and really lean low sides and Cats were used to meet the regs.  The ms200t went though a bunch of carb changes during these years to try and meet the smog regs and still run ok. The shaft actuated accelerator pump on the little zama C1? Was a great example of a crappy fix that usually had issues after a short time of use.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #13 on: June 17, 2014, 10:46:08 pm »
The EPA carbs had a smaller high speed jet in the floor of the metering valve chamber that ultimately limited how rich you could make the high speed mixture.

The high speed needle merely reduced the mixture the jets (limited) amount to a lesser amount.

To drill this jet would make the high speed needle more sensitive and also make the carb able to meter more fuel. 
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Offline cuttinfornotting

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2014, 09:38:34 am »
Well I still haven't had a chance to go over the saw. I got it almost for free because it wouldn't start and was making kind of a rattling sound when you pull it over. When I tried to check compression I took the spark plug out and the ground electrode was broke off the spark plug when I pulled it over it locked up. I think the ground electrode is stuck in a port between piston and port. Maybe a parts saw? Why would the ground electrode break off a spark plug unless it hit the piston? I will take it apart tonight.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2014, 10:52:50 am »
Things happen
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

Offline SawTroll

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2014, 12:07:58 pm »
The EPA carbs had a smaller high speed jet in the floor of the metering valve chamber that ultimately limited how rich you could make the high speed mixture.

The high speed needle merely reduced the mixture the jets (limited) amount to a lesser amount.

To drill this jet would make the high speed needle more sensitive and also make the carb able to meter more fuel. 

I didn't know that.

The non-EPA carbs were the 190 (heated saws) and 198, and likely the 174 before that.

Offline Bluegill

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2014, 05:58:25 pm »
I'll take it if you don't want to fix it. :D

Offline cuttinfornotting

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2014, 10:56:04 pm »
2009 359 E-tech ...  I took it apart finally tonight. That carb is a **** to get off, that throttle rod from the trigger to the carb was almost impossible for me to figure out how to get it off. I ended up pulling the cylinder with the carb on to get it up enough to get that rod off the carb. It had a Zama C3  EL42  8ZD were the numbers on the side of carb. I pulled off the cat muffler, and took the cylinder off. I found the ground electrode that broke off the spark plug sitting on top of the piston. There was no real damage to the cylinder other than some dent marks from the piece of electrode that was causing it to lock up at TDC, and dent marks in the top of the piston, but no scoring on piston or cylinder wall. I noticed the single piston ring is not real free it is a little seized in the piston ring groove opposite the little pin at the ring gap. I think I can clean everything up and slap it back together. The crankshaft looks good the bearings all seem tight. Is there a good way to smooth out all the dent marks in the top of the piston? Or should it work ok with just leave all the little dent marks as is on piston and top of cylinder? What should I do with the cat muffler just toss it and get a new non cat muffler, or is it worth cutting the cat muffler open and gutting it out? Another thing I noticed when I was taking it apart the throttle linkage rod from the trigger to carb seemed like it was not opening the carb all the way to full throttle do you just bend that rod I don't see any other way to get it to go full throttle?

Offline 660magnum

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Re: 359 Etech any good?
« Reply #19 on: June 22, 2014, 12:05:54 am »
Get what's left of the sparkplug electrode out of the piston and leave the rest alone.

Getting the ring unstuck without breaking it may be a challenge?

You can bend the pushrod a little. I have a 357XP that is almost the same saw and the pushrod is touchy.

It would look more original to put a new non cat muffler on it. The aftermarket mufflers for this engine have the pipe out the side and I figure are no better than the catalytic muffler without modification.

My 357XP has a nice OEM non-catalytic muffler but they tend to be expensive from Husqvarna.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

 

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