Chainsaw Repair

11 tooth will not act up if you have sharp chain and rider set correct to the wood you cut.

Quote from: SawTroll on November 30, 2012, 02:10:59 pm

but I surely wouldn't want "Super Guard" noses on any (standard width) Power Match bars - must be very annoying when borecutting!

Well, I have never had any sort of issue/problem borecutting with 10 and 11 teeth noses (.325 or 3/8"), and I fail to see the point of starting "streight on". As soon as the tip is in there no longer is any real issue with kickback, and the pushback that may/will happen is easy to control.
I am sure that the boring itself will be faster (more effective) with a wider nose, as the chain is closer to cutting in a proper way at the tip.

Yes Niko I was just explaining how smooth the smaller radius 9T nose does bore referring to your original comment of it "must be annoying".
"Straight on" boring is nice in smaller trees not offering alot of room directly behind the facecut  in the backcut area. The narrow bodied Windsor Mini Pro bar takes up even less space when bore cutting.
 I think the speed handicap reference comes from back in the day when sawchain was not designed as it is today. Since close to 10 yrs now the major 2 companies Oregon and Stihl have introduced the "anti-vibe" and "comfort" design,which by lowering the heel of the cutter makes the cutter tip backwards which in turn changes how the cutter attacks the wood and also reduces the tail of the cutter making contact in the borecut, making less interference and vibration.

On my 1/4" carving chains I "boat tail" the cutters by grinding the tail of the cutter at the top plate edge at an angle to improve bore cutting with my wee little dime tip nosed bars. I own Stihl 1/4" chain that already has that modification done in the factory [chain in top of photo].
The lower chain in the photo is unmodified Carlton.