Author Topic: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits  (Read 2111 times)

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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #40 on: May 04, 2014, 08:42:49 am »
OK, just so I understand what I am looking for, you need:

Husqvarna 503436501 LOCK SPRING
Husqvarna 503838102 CATCH
Husqvarna 537008701 BRAKE LEVER
Husqvarna 503202512 SCREW
Husqvarna 503775201 BUSHING

PM me an address and if I have the parts I'll send them along.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #41 on: May 05, 2014, 06:41:14 pm »
This really not correct at all. For one thing, prices are not coming down. Beginning of the year saw a price increase on all Husky jugs. They are not "feeling the heat" in any way. Trust me on this point. I'm one of the few guys who live in both worlds here. Both the enthusiast/hobby world here on the saw sites and also in the real everyday world in my own store. There is a huge and very real disconnect between those two realities.

I do fully understand the sentiment that most of you have regarding OEM prices and the feeling that you are getting hosed in a system that you feel is stacked against you. So, AM prices allow you to beat that system.

I've been sharing in Weimedog's experiments and my comclusions are a little different, as I do not see ANY of the Asian sources as being of consistant enough quality to use in my store. Too many middle men clouding the discussion, and with the Asian crap, the name on the box has little if anything to do with the name on the part. Just a bunch of guys re-boxing and selling the same crap. Sometimes you can't even trust the box will have the same part. Weimedog and I each bought a Forester 372 kit. Same part number, a few weeks apart, yet each kit was from a different source. Mine runs OK, his blows up. Which kit is representative of that Forester part number? What's going to be in the next box? I ordered a Mako 372, and guess what? It's the same "Pacme" labeled jug that Walt got in a Forester box, with the same ring hang up on the intake port. Sent it back and Tilton is looking into it. 272 kits on the other hand, from both Forester and Mako look like nice stuff. But it's all a crap shoot and regardless of what the various sellers are saying about their fake "brands", most of this stuff is coming from the same few sources "over there". It's all a little bit of a scam IMO. Creating fake brands selling the same junk in different boxes at prices that are all over the map. Talk about a system that's stacked against you! This is far more a hosing of the customer than what's going on with OEM parts.

This not the case with the European stuff. A Meteor is a Meteor. A Tecomec is a Tecomec. Same way a Mahle is a Mahle. But the European kits really offer me no significant price advantage over OEM, so I mostly stick to the real stuff in the store.

I do sell the OEM kits at a fair price, and I look at this all from a cost standpoint. My cost on and OEM 372 kit is $100 more than my whiolesale cost on a Mako or Forester kit. For a $100 difference, OEM is the better way to go IMO. And my customers want the OEM anyway. My shop has a great reputation and I won't compromise that by using Chinese AM junk.



I could go on and on about this. Probably will tonight, but I've got plenty to do here in the store. Some of these parts do work fine, and external bits are a little easier to do right.

I also think that AM pistons are usually pretty decent for that same reason. And likely the cheapest way to go of all the rebuild options. After all, most dead saws will come with a cylinder, and the majority of the time that cylinder can be salvaged. A refinished OEM jug is a FAR better option than an AM top end, using either an OEM or AM piston.

I also have to remark here that it's a wonder my Forester 372 kit runs as good as it does, or even at all for that matter. If you look up the exhaust port it's so out of wack that you'd swear the cylinder was on crooked. No real contour to the exhaust port roof and it will open a good 2mm on the left before it begins to open on the right side. What kind of port timing is that called?  :D

But here again, I'll correct myself: I should NOT be calling that a "forester" kit. It's an unmarked kit in a Forester box, again from a different source than the one Walt got, in the same box with the same part number. Calling it a Forester plays into the same "brand language" game that all of these re-sellers are using to confuse us. Creating these phony brands selling the same stuff in different boxes is where all of these vendors, jobbers, and re-sellers fabricate the mist that we have trouble seeing through. I have identified at least 3, maybe 4 sources of cylinders that are sold under the same brand. You could open a box and get a "pacme", a "star gry", or something with no markings on it. It's like Cracker Jacks; a surprise in every box. THIS is the central point in my argument that there is a bit of a scam going on here. Not necessarily intentional, but there's so much BS with this Asian stuff that we never get to see the man behind the curtain. The many layers that exist in the marketing of these cylinders from the casting houses making them til they get to your work bench makes that impossible. My suppliers were just as baffled as I was. My questions received answers like "What's a pacme?" "What's a Star Gry?" "We get these from our vendor in Australia" "They tell us they have people on the ground in the factories checking quality". Nobody's got a clue what's going on.

Another example: Ordered 2 of the 372 big bore kits with that dark finish on them that are likely all coming from the same place. Same company, same part number, same pretty box. One came with the split ring style piston rings. Lasted about 2 minutes and destroyed itself. Total waste. Other kit had standard rings and runs fine. Consistency just isn't there.

Also, before someone throws this out there, I do not have an OEM parts agenda. When Walt and I started messing with this stuff my objective was to find a reliable source of this stuff to use on less expensive saws such as 55's or what not that are almost never rebuilt. I'm not saying that none of them work, as many do. Just that the consistency doesn't exist for a real shop environment, but is fine for the DIY guy who owns multiple saws.



Come across  this info from Spike today.  Good read.

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #42 on: May 05, 2014, 09:24:51 pm »
+1, really good read and enlightening information!
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Offline weimedog

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #43 on: May 05, 2014, 10:27:09 pm »
:) Time to move on to other subjects.  :)

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #44 on: May 12, 2014, 12:32:06 pm »
A Day In The Woods . . . . Playing with saws . . . Aftermarket Cylinders . . . Having fun

This what it's all about fellows. I didn't make this video nor am I in it. The one guy is Spike, a member of this forum and the other is Walt? This location is possibly South Eastern New York? It Doesn't matter?

What does matter is that they have a shelter and they cook a little and try out some of their "hobby" chainsaws. This is what the chainsaw C.A.D. is all about. Been out in the woods and done this a few times. A lot of fun! Worth watching again. One 372 has a Forester top end and the other 372 is almost entirely Huztl with some parts Forester.



Here is the uploader comments from You Tube under the video . . .

" Published on Mar 9, 2014

Spike60 & I have both been building saws as a real life evaluation of aftermarket parts options. The saws tested here have all appeared in prior video's with the exception of Bob's Jonsered woods port build....and actually you saw the bones of that saw in one of the video's ... :)

We discussed where aftermarket parts fit in the scheme of things, cut a few tree's down over the course of the day, and then ran some saws back to back in a hard maple log for comparison purposes.

The Jonsered 670 with that open port 268 Husqvarna style cylinder continues to disappoint, It was soundly spanked by a 25 year old tired Jonsered 625 I use for a reference standard for bringing that 600 series Jonsereds back to life.

The Forester / Husqvarna 372 build ran well. Really smooth. An effective build. I like that saw.

The Huztl also ran well.....you will HAVE to see in the video which one has more power. Hint, Someone was whining about chains...:) AND fact was both chains have time on them. The one was moved from another saw....:)

The woods ported Jonsered did as expected. But the difference isn't as much as you might think! Numbers show a story."
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Offline SawTroll

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #45 on: May 12, 2014, 01:23:43 pm »
.....

Come across  this info from Spike today.  Good read.

Yes it is, and no real surprices there!   :)

Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #46 on: June 04, 2014, 11:13:29 am »
Well, just to see, I ordered a 372BB kit from MachinesDoctorOnline off e-Bay for $39.50. It arrived today, in an unmarked white box, only marking on anything is an 'L' on the jug and the 'dark gray' finish Spike mentions above. If I use AM parts Meteor or Techomec would be my first choice and Hyway my second. This C/P is not up to the quality of any of those. All of the ports are so sharp edged that rings will surely catch and worse yet there are casting sprus in the cylinder top that protrude past the squish band which will surely make getting an accurate squish measurement impossible! These are not tiny, they are large enough that you can see them without even touching them! I am sure that if you were going for 0.020 squish the piston would hit! I will post a picture later in the day. Also as noted by Bob no contour to the EP roof either. These problems might be corrected by a few hours at the bench with a grinder but who wants to do that on a kit that cost $39.50!

Just for laughs, I put the jug and piston on a 2171 bottom end with no base gasket, tried to measure squish with an 0.063 piece of solder. No way solder was not compressed at all! Given this much squish I think I will put a 272 piston in just to see!
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Offline Spike60

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #47 on: June 19, 2014, 07:16:47 am »
That's disappointing because Walt and I had thought/hoped that at least that kit might have the comfort level that some guys could use them. I know I keep hammering this but .....consistancy just doesn't exist with most of the asian stuff. In fact I have to report that I got burned again this week just trying to use a Forester piston in a 346OE. Opened up the box and found it was supplied with one of those crappy split style rings. Also, the wrist pin fit was way too tight. Just tossed it in the garbage. Forester is about the worst as far as getting different stuff under the same part number. I have ordered that piston before and had success with it.

660 is correct in his comments about the video above. I'm the guy standing on the tree, and Walt is the other guy. This was done on his farm in central NY. We have fun putting these saws under the microscope, and like you said, this is what CAD is all about. Testing and comparing our various projects, and just plain enjoying a day in the woods. We did another one a couple weeks ago and got talking about how anal we are with the saws in the sense that we are looking for and focusing on differences between saws that are often so subtle that the average user would not notice them. I think I said something like "Normal people just cut wood."

And that last point is relevant to the AM parts discussion. In fairness, many of those cylinders do run, even with the crazy, wacked out ports such as on my Forester 372 and Walt's Fugly 350. They won't run as good as OEM, and probably not as long either. But they usually run better than a dead saw that doesn't run at all.   
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Offline KilliansRedLeo

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #48 on: June 19, 2014, 07:55:05 am »
Well Spike is correct in all he says. The 272 piston would hit also. So, decided to clean it up a little. Radiused the port edges, removed all the release agent from the insides of the ports and combustion chamber. Then had to figure out how to get rid of the casting sprews in the head. Ended up using some 80 micron laping film on a disk from MickyMaster. It worked sort of but very difficult to keep aligned properly since I do not have a lathe. Will put the thing together and see.   
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Discussion of various aftermarket P/C kits
« Reply #49 on: June 19, 2014, 12:15:27 pm »
As has already been alluded to, the Chinese - left unrestrained - do not have quality control as we in North America know it.

You can get a P&C outfit and everything is perfect - and so you tell your friends how good your saw runs. Your friends go out and buy the same brand from the same source and the product is virtually useless. This has been the common advice given by more than one retail marketer/enthusiast of chainsaw aftermarket parts.

The only way to do business with the Chinese is to have some binding (Bonded) post Q/C system in place or do it yourself.   

BTW the video that Spike and Walt made that winter day just has to be one of the finest videos ever made of two chainsaw aficionados having a good time on a Saturday.
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