Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: Chardy on August 25, 2012, 11:49:52 am
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Hi, I am resurrecting my 029 and need to replace the rear side plate bolt as the thread is buggered-does this stud just wind out? I had a quick go with some grips to no avail and wondered if a set of stud extractors will do it or does the whole thing need stripping down to get to the back of the stud??
Cheers, Richard
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029 and need to replace the rear side plate bolt as the thread is buggered-does this stud just wind out?
Just to make sure we are on the same page. Are we talking about bar studs?
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Yes, I am talking about the bar studs and as can be seen by your picture the rear stud is the longer of the two. Thanks for a quick response, I'm new on this forum so hello to you!!
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I have never removed this style before. But from how I have removed others in the past. I used 2 THIN nuts together to remove studs. Tightening one against the other. THIN because of the limited area you have to work with on those.
I have read you need to heat the bar stud on the 029 style to loosen the adhesive glue they use on the bar studs. Using a propane type heat torch most homeowner have.
Here is another guy removing stud.
I just thought I would mention how I just did this on an 029. I tried the double bar nut trick but it didn't work for me, probably because there's not enough thread on the stud to fully screw the second nut on and I didn't want to risk stripping the threads.
So what I did was first to take off the chain tensioner and little aluminum chain catcher under the stud (for reasons you will understand in a second). Then I heated up the bar stud with my propane brazing torch (like you use to sweat copper pipe). The repair manual says to heat it up to remove it, I assume to soften the thread adhesive. So I did this for 10 or 15 seconds or so. Finally, I used a pipe wrench to grab just the shoulder of the stud, which extends from the plastic housing by only about 1/8" inch. If you grab the stud itself you'll screw up the threads as I found out quickly with my vice grips. The pipe wrench must have sharp jaws for this to work, and it actually does have to bite into the stud metal a bit to get it turning. But surprisingly I was able to get the darn thing out such that the stud could be reused. The reason for removing the chain tensioner and catcher was to allow more of a turning radius for the wrench. Even so, I probably only had about 135degrees to turn each time, and some of that was used as the pipe wrench jaw started to grip.
Anyway, that's one poor man's way to do it if you don't have a stud remover
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thanks for that, unfortunately I have no thread left to use the locking nut trick so extractor it is. But I did wonder as to whether a thread lock glue had been used so heating the stud up gently is a good tip. I will let you know how I get on!
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I wouldn't be surprised if in fact the studs were inserted using red Loctite which does require some heat to remove .Pretty tough stuff .
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Can you run a die nut down far enough to get a new thread
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To bad the thread are buggered up
There pretty easy to get out with two bar nuts
Just put a little tension on it (both nuts) and a little tap from a hammer usually loosen them
There is a utube vid showing how to remove them just can't find it right now