Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Jonsered => Topic started by: jodal666 on September 07, 2012, 04:12:34 pm
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Hi All,
first post her and urgently need a bit of help.
I have a Jonsered 630 super that was working perfectly the last time I used it, (about 6 months ago).
Tried to start it, would not fire. changed the spark plug, still wont fire. took plug out to check for spark whilst connected to HT lead. NO spark.
Took to a local chainsaw shop. They phoned they phoned me with the estimate £200 requires 2 HT coils. I'm not sure I beleive this is the fault.I think they want to sell me a new chainsaw. I decided to take the saw home telling the shop I'd think about it. I noticed there were 2 loose/disconected/broken wires under the air filter. 1 black wire which comes from the hot cold climate switch which goes where possibly to inside the handle as its only 3" long??. At home I decide strip the saw down. The blue wire seems to run from a connector top left of the flywheel under the recoil starter? The question is where should the other end of the blue wire go? Carry handle??
After taking the handle off there is a blue cable tucked inside the black plastic covering the handle. The end of another bloken blue cable just sticking out fron the plastic which then goes to handle throttle switch.
Next question. Some of these cables have worn through to the copper.if the copper was shorting to the metal case I'm assuming this woulg kill the spark?
I hope some / all of the above makes sense.
many thanks
Jodal666
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Welcome.
I dont know if this will help or not. 630 IPL has wiring diagram. http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Jonsered%20630.pdf
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Thanks for the PDF link. Although it does not show the actual cabling. Especially the location of the blue wire. where where the hell it should go :(
I don't understand why it would go the the carry handle then on to the throttle switch assembly.
Any idea of what the resistance reading should be across the HT coil??
many thanks
Jodal66
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some info I dug up from 2010 on a small engine spot.
jonsered 630 chainsaw no spark
R. A neighbour brought by this unit saying no spark. I have the same result. I tried with the kill wire off the kill switch as well. Took cover off and it has 2 part electronic ignition. One side of flywheel has a magnetic pickup. It has 2 wires, one is the kill wire going to on/off switch and the other goes to coil unit with spark plug lead on the other side. Can't find anything online to help me. Any test procedures to checkout which component may be bad? Any IPL available to get part numbers? Thanks
G. Take a close look at the coil wire, make sure it is not broken inside the cover someplace, pull on it in places to check. Also look for bare spots. Remove the switch wire completely to test again, be sure and not pinch the coil wire when putting back together. Sometimes a pinched wire, bare wire or loose connection of the coil wire can be the problem. Look at the plug wire as well as the boot end with spring wire for plug connection. If all of this checks out the most likely problem is the trigger unit next to the flywheel. Sorry I do not have an IPL availible for that model. You might find one looking online.
R . Checked all the wiring and it seems ok. Definitely not the kill switch as the tab broke off and I removed it. I get about 1400 ohms on the plug lead to ground and 4 ohms on the trigger leads. I got an IPL and part number for the trigger and coil. Trigger is pricey, found it for $138 US. Ironically it the dealer has it, I found one right here in Ontario , for $84.
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There might be info in these 670 and 630 threads too.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/jonsered/670-questions/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/jonsered/jonsered-670-champ/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/jonsered/jonsered-670-625/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/jonsered/630-super2/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/jonsered/630-jonsered-crankcase-gasket/
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Thanks for the links. Looks exactly what I'm looking for.
Downloaded the service manual. I think I now what wires go to the heating system and can bypass all of that. I'll check for short / damaged cables and the kill switch first. then the trigger unit spacing 0.3mm. just incase its moved..
If i disconnect the kill switch. That would be equivilent to have the switch open circuit and i should get a spark? if the trigger unit is good.
many thanks
Jodal666
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The chainsaw should run perfect without the kill switch wires but the only way to shut it off would be with the choke.
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Hi All,
Todays update:
Ok, so this morning bypassed all the handle heater wiring. Don't have to worry about that anymore..
Removerd start/kill switch. Althougth measures ok with a meter. still no spark.
wiring looks ok from trigger unit to HT spark unit. Measures 5.5 ohms from the 2 magnet heads to the end of the kill switch wire. A 40-50 Millivolts output when rotating flywheel as magnet pass trigger unit.
Measured HT spark unit reading infinite / open circuitfrom yellow or black lead to spark plug cap.
Any idea what readingi should get across the HT spark coil?
many thanks
Jodal666
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The ohms of the HT outlet at the coil is usually check to the case ground
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Just run out and measured the spark plug cap toy the chassis
reads infinite/ open circuit.
looks like the HT coil needs to be replaced :(
I might cut it open, just to have a look, you never know.ane encase in resin if it can be fixed.
Anyone know of a source for this part?
regards
Jodal666
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Might just be a broken wire?
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when I sent the last post, I suddenly thought, there could be a break at the plug cap. I'll try to take this apart in the morning.
regards
Jodal666
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lets hope it is the wire or cap
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ok, checked the main HT wire there was a lot of corrosion where the connector attaches to the plug. cut that back 1/2" and now get continunity from the black and yellow wires.
meter reads 1.48 Megohms from both wires to plug cap.
voltage on HT cap .79v when cranking the engine. Still no spark though.
I would have thought there would be a lot more voltage tha 0.79v
Is there a definitive test for the HT coil??
best regards
Jodal666
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The ultimate definitive test is spark!
When you are making these tests to see spark, have the spark plug out and pull the flywheel over as fast as you can.
The spark is often very thin and hard to see especially outside in the sunlight.
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Ok guys.
The outcome....
Went to a Jonserad dealer in Spain who was very helpfull. we discussed the problem. but they couldn'y say on way or another which ignition module it would be. for bothe modules £125
I thendecided to chance my arm segundo mano por favor?? Any way 10 minutes later he came back with a big husky. Not sure of the model pulled the started to prove spark. £45 for both units. got home fitted ignition unit on right. the one I thought it would be. still no spark. Then fitted ignition module on the left. pulled starter.....
We have spark. re assembled starter unit and fired the old girl up. Purrs like a noisy kitten.....
Then a problem. Stupidly i didnt reinstall the chain cover and the clutch unscrewed itself and rolled across the floor :'(
Recovered the parts, reassembled inc chain cover. enging started to turn over then no resistance when pulling.
Noticed the flywheel was slipping on the crank....
Strip down again. The sacrificial crank pin key on the crankshaft had sheared off.
Back to the shop New flywheel shear pin £1.50
reassembled again.
starts, Working again....
Although there may now be another problem..
There seems to be a lot of end play on the clutch 2-3mm and I dont think there is oil getting to the bar. I wonder if i've damaged the oil pumpdrive gear under the clutch.
What is the best way of locking the crank when doing up the clutch?
best regards
Jodal666
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Most of the time if you have the saw completely assembled with the bar - chain - cover, the clutch will tighten itself.
If you want to keep the crank from turning, raise the piston above the exhaust port in the direction it will try to turn, stuff some starter cord inside the cylinder through the spark plug hole. This will hold the crank for your flywheel or clutch work.
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;D There a few things that most us who are honest about it have done .Install a chain backwards ,put oil in the fuel tank and rocked out a chain .
A few of us have spun off a clutch but on that very few of us have ever done so twice because that's one thing you never forget .
I spun one off in a driveway that must have rolled 150 feet and was lucky to have found it intact . I'll bet it's real thriller to blow one apart inside of a building and have it chase you around . :o
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I remember the first time I put oil and fuel in the wrong holes was on an echo 280 great little one handled limbing saw not cheap either. Took it back to the dealer had a real good winge about a near new saw not running walked out feeling a complete dick head (mind you I did say the first time and I admit it wasn't the last)
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I have a little plastic Mac 3200 type chainsaw. It is OK for what it is - a yard pruning saw . But the fuel tank is in the front and the gas tank is in the rear.
I've put bar oil in the gas tank 3 or four times over the years. I get so mad at that chainsaw for being backwards.
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I have a little plastic Mac 3200 type chainsaw. It is OK for what it is - a yard pruning saw . But the fuel tank is in the front and the gas tank is in the rear.
I've put bar oil in the gas tank 3 or four times over the years. I get so mad at that chainsaw for being backwards.
It just got you again ;) Least you didnt have to clean it out this way.
Know what you were thinking though. :)
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Sorry about that. The oil tank is in the rear on the plastic Mac. I keep putting bar oil in the gas tank.
Today wasn't my day for I made a couple other mistakes like that on the Internet this evening.
I'll blame it on the grand kid aggravating me.
Right before dark the game warden stopped in front of the house and shot something in the ditch with his rifle.
I went out there and it was a doe with a broken leg. After it died he loaded it in the truck and hauled it away.
Another guy stopped by and said it had been there at least since daylight for he saw it on the way to work in the morning.
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OK what Husky saw or saws crosses over to a Jonsered 630 super with thin ring piston? Is a 670 topend a straight up bolt on?
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162 Husky. Don't see many of em. See a lot more 630's probably 50 to 1. Not pos on the 670 more familiar with Huskys. I thnk the impulses are diff. Did a little checking. 630 t0 670 you will have to use 670 intake system.
Shep
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Thanks for that info Shep.
So what is the difference in a Jred 630 and 630 super?
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No real difference between the two, except a change from the HS225 carb to a HS254. The differences were more between the Super and Super II; better thought of as early vs late 630's.
Early saws had the twin ignition coil, thin piston rings, and a slightly brighter shade of red. The Super II's had single coil, single thick piston ring, HS256, and a different chain brake handle. Top covers and mufflers are also different between the early and late saws. Gonna try and post a pic here..............early on the left, Super II on the right.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/66Impala/jred630II.jpg)
Resized pic to fit. Thanks for info ;)
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Are the 2 piece coil set ups NLA and will a 1 piece work with the 2 piece coil flywheel? Just thinking down the road if I get this super 630
Great info and Thanks for sharing.............. 8)
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The two piece system is still available but costs something like $175 if you need both pieces, but usually only one goes bad at a time. Can't mix and match them either, as there are some differences in the cases that prevent bolting them in.
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162 Husky. Don't see many of em. See a lot more 630's probably 50 to 1. Not pos on the 670 more familiar with Huskys. I thnk the impulses are diff. Did a little checking. 630 t0 670 you will have to use 670 intake system.
Shep
The 162se didn't really cross over to any 630 Super directly, just to the original 630 - as it was obsolete before the 630 became the 630 Super.