Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: HolmenTree on November 16, 2012, 12:55:15 pm
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I need some advice from all of you woodcutters out ther who have run the 555 and 562XP. I own a 562 but never tried a 555.
Myself being a director and organizer for our local winter festival's chainsaw competitions ,I'm getting organized for next Febuary's event.
My major sponsor my Husqvarna dealer has decided with the help of his distributer to retire the 576XP AT saws that we have used for the last 3 years and go to the new 555 or 562XP . Reason is we want to get more women entering the womens speed cutting competiton.
Now we're undecided on the 555 or 562XP. Our competition uses 2 supplied saws [3rd saw for a spare] cutting in pairs through a 10X10 spruce cant for 3 cuts for on average of 50 competitors [men and women total] all within 2 hours. Saws idle the whole time between competitors.
Outside temperatue is always below freezing. I was hesitant about using the 562 because of it's rev boost being more designed for limbing not for heavy bucking for a steady 2 hours with all types of torture from some operators not having much experience in running saws.
I thought the 555 without the rev boost even though it has less h.p. would be the better choice for this application, the 555 will have the standard 3/8 chain.
Any thoughts I would appreciate, I have until Monday to decide.
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mdavlee is the only person I think has ran the 555 and 562 to compare. Maybe mweba too.
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Just an hour ago I was talking to my dealer and from talking to his distributor they figured 550XPs would be a good choice. The 550 is now officially available in Canada.
I'm doubtful a limbing saw would be a good saw for this application of bucking cookies. I'm leaning towards the 562XP.
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I wouldn't worry about the rev boost on the 562. There is a good difference in power for the 562 over the 555. The rev boost only helps for a couple seconds when the saw it ran up to full throttle. In the not so scientific testing the 562 was 15% more powerful than the 555.
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Yup, what Mike said. The 555 is already strong that the 357 was and the 562 is just plain wicked for 60cc. The only reason I could see against the 62 is the experience level of the users.
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Thanks guys.
If I'm gonna put on a competition I want these saws to perform even with little- experienced women. My 10"X10" spruce cants are almost always frozen solid in February. The 562's will be getting a workout.
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Now to add to my last post what do you guys think of the 550XP with 20" .325 b/c?
The reason we're retiring the 576's is to have lighter saws for everyone to use , whether their a 250 lb man or a 110 lb women. The 562 would be a saving in weight and bulk but the 550XP would be even better.
I know the 550 is replacing the 346 but I know nothing about the 550. I think my 346 would be a poor choice to run through 2 to 3 hr of 60-70 different operators, some with very little experience.
I want these saws to do their cuts and resume idling smoothly again between competitors, the saws are running steady for the whole competition. Doesn't look good for me or my sponsor if they run poorly.
So what do you think about the 550XP choice with .325 chain? These saws will be brand new right out of the box with only about 5 minutes run in time to set them up.
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I would have 15" on the 550, not a inch more!
If you have 10X10 it is plenty.
Bigger will not be as fun.
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I would have 15" on the 550, not a inch more!
If you have 10X10 it is plenty.
Bigger will not be as fun.
I agree Magnus, I would do the same too if it was just me competiting with my own saw. But my dealer [sponsor ] likes the looks of the longer 20" on his saws, I guess to make the saws "look more serious". He wants to supply 4- 550XPs with 20" Techlite bars with .325 chain. Then we would have 2 spare saws at all times.
Even though the 550 is a limbing saw, I think with our -20C average temperatures the saws should not run too hot bucking these 10"X10",
What do you think?
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I think you better run a 261 if a 550 can't handle multiple cuts in 10x10 in the winter. What a step backwards for Husky. Even a 346 could handle 10x10 in the summer. Glad the truth is getting out before more people waste money on a 550. ;)
On a serious note, the 550 would be better for new cutters to master. When we do stock supplied it is 50-70cc. 20 inch will work better for beginners also. Whatever saw dealers offer have fun.
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I'm lost, why would a 550 overheat? Do they make a small mount tech lite?
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Willard.
These will Not see much use and if dealer give them of, well..
-20 is not that bad unless it is coast temp, that chill to the bone in minutes. Inland it is not so hard.
I live by coast. Hen it is -20 here it feel like -35 inland.
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Maybe this is a dumb question. But, i have read so much about how these saws wake up significantly after several gallons of break-in. Are these just head to head competitions? Or will the break in effect the competition?
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Thanks guys. My dealer says by Feb. the small mount Tech Lite bars may be available. The T540XP on the Husqvarna Canada website shows it with a Techlite bar.
I'm just trying to be extra cautious with my saw selection. Three festivals ago I had trouble with two of the three 576AutoTunes. Brand new out of the box with the recommended 5 minute run in one wouldn't idle after 2 hours of racing, the other wouldn't run [back firing badly] because the dual throttle linkage was kinked and binding.
I think 550XP -20" with .325 would be the way to go to attract more women competitiors.
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Maybe this is a dumb question. But, i have read so much about how these saws wake up significantly after several gallons of break-in. Are these just head to head competitions? Or will the break in effect the competition?
All our supplied saws are factory stock with the exact same time on each, only used for cutting wood at the yearly competition. The next year I will run the other 2 spare saws to keep all 4 saws even.
The 3 Husqvarna 450s sitting on the front of the stage are the 1st place prizes for men's, women's and carving event, $200 cash for 2nd, $100 for 3rd, $50 for 4th
chainsaw carving event: 1st Husqvarna 450 plus $500, 2nd $500, 3rd $400 and 4th $$200.
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I would have 15" on the 550, not a inch more!
If you have 10X10 it is plenty.
Bigger will not be as fun.
I agree Magnus, I would do the same too if it was just me competiting with my own saw. But my dealer [sponsor ] likes the looks of the longer 20" on his saws, I guess to make the saws "look more serious". He wants to supply 4- 550XPs with 20" Techlite bars with .325 chain. Then we would have 2 spare saws at all times.
Even though the 550 is a limbing saw, I think with our -20C average temperatures the saws should not run too hot bucking these 10"X10",
What do you think?
If such bars exist, that is major news! ???
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Thanks guys. My dealer says by Feb. the small mount Tech Lite bars may be available. The T540XP on the Husqvarna Canada website shows it with a Techlite bar. I'm just trying to be extra cautious with my saw selection. Three festivals ago I had trouble with two of the three 576AutoTunes. Brand new out of the box with the recommended 5 minute run in one wouldn't idle after 2 hours of racing, the other wouldn't run [back firing badly] because the dual throttle linkage was kinked and binding.
I think 550XP -20" with .325 would be the way to go to attract more women competitiors.
TechLite "Arborist" bars in 3/8" lo pro are not news - they have been out for a while, but only up to 16". Also, those are not RSN bars.
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Thanks guys. My dealer says by Feb. the small mount Tech Lite bars may be available.
TechLite "Arborist" bars in 3/8" lo pro are not news - they have been out for a while, but only up to 16". Also, those are not RSN bars.
Thanks for the info Niko. I guess the reason why I know so little about TechLite bars is because I would never own one on my own personal saws since they are laminated.
Here see my photos below of a "real" lightweight small mount bar. I found a stock pile of these brand new 25 year old Windsor Mini Pro 16" bars, I have them in 1/4", 3/8 LoPro, 3/8" standard and .325 ,........zoom in close and you will see the MS200 and 346XP are setup with 1/4" [just an experiment, I have since setup both saws on .325]
These beautiful solid body bars I will run on the competition 550XP's in .325 , these small radius nosed, low kick back energy bars will be safe for the novice competitors.
As the last photo shows I have been running Oregon PowerMatch Double Guard bars on the 576XP AT's. Another excellent smooth bore-cutting safety bar that has gone the way of the dinosaur.
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Those Sandvik/Windsor bars looks very nice ;D - but I surely wouldn't want "Super Guard" noses on any (standard width) Power Match bars - must be very annoying when borecutting!
I have no problem with the use of them for that exact application though, when newbies are involved. ;)
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but I surely wouldn't want "Super Guard" noses on any (standard width) Power Match bars - must be very annoying when borecutting!
The total opposite Niko, someone has been passing some bad information on to you. The Oregon Double Guard small radius nose bore cuts way better then the standard 11T nose. You can push the smaller nose at WOT "straight on" into the tree like a sabre , try that with the standard nose and it will be kick backing all over the place.
I see no difference in speed between the two also BTW.
Some day I'll learn to post a video and will put the demonstration of it on here. ;)
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11 tooth will not act up if you have sharp chain and rider set correct to the wood you cut.
9 tooth is good, but not on high bars as the wear gets funny after a bit of running and in so shortening the bars life.
There are bars that can handle it though. Usually the chain get a beating instead then.
.
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11 tooth will not act up if you have sharp chain and rider set correct to the wood you cut.
What I was saying is I can push the 9T bar tip straight into the tree with the very front middle part of the tip. The 11T tip has to be started with the bottom front part to avoid reactive vibration.
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but I surely wouldn't want "Super Guard" noses on any (standard width) Power Match bars - must be very annoying when borecutting!
The total opposite Niko, someone has been passing some bad information on to you. The Oregon Double Guard small radius nose bore cuts way better then the standard 11T nose. You can push the smaller nose at WOT "straight on" into the tree like a sabre , try that with the standard nose and it will be kick backing all over the place.
I see no difference in speed between the two also BTW.
Some day I'll learn to post a video and will put the demonstration of it on here. ;)
Well, I have never had any sort of issue/problem borecutting with 10 and 11 teeth noses (.325 or 3/8"), and I fail to see the point of starting "streight on". As soon as the tip is in there no longer is any real issue with kickback, and the pushback that may/will happen is easy to control.
I am sure that the boring itself will be faster (more effective) with a wider nose, as the chain is closer to cutting in a proper way at the tip.
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but I surely wouldn't want "Super Guard" noses on any (standard width) Power Match bars - must be very annoying when borecutting!
Well, I have never had any sort of issue/problem borecutting with 10 and 11 teeth noses (.325 or 3/8"), and I fail to see the point of starting "streight on". As soon as the tip is in there no longer is any real issue with kickback, and the pushback that may/will happen is easy to control.
I am sure that the boring itself will be faster (more effective) with a wider nose, as the chain is closer to cutting in a proper way at the tip.
Yes Niko I was just explaining how smooth the smaller radius 9T nose does bore referring to your original comment of it "must be annoying".
"Straight on" boring is nice in smaller trees not offering alot of room directly behind the facecut in the backcut area. The narrow bodied Windsor Mini Pro bar takes up even less space when bore cutting.
I think the speed handicap reference comes from back in the day when sawchain was not designed as it is today. Since close to 10 yrs now the major 2 companies Oregon and Stihl have introduced the "anti-vibe" and "comfort" design,which by lowering the heel of the cutter makes the cutter tip backwards which in turn changes how the cutter attacks the wood and also reduces the tail of the cutter making contact in the borecut, making less interference and vibration.
On my 1/4" carving chains I "boat tail" the cutters by grinding the tail of the cutter at the top plate edge at an angle to improve bore cutting with my wee little dime tip nosed bars. I own Stihl 1/4" chain that already has that modification done in the factory [chain in top of photo].
The lower chain in the photo is unmodified Carlton.
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I messed up the below post, and it is too late to edit - the corrected text is in the quote;
Well, I have never had any sort of issue/problem borecutting with 10 and 11 teeth noses (.325 or 3/8"), and I fail to see the point of starting "streight on". As soon as the tip is inside the wood, there no longer is any real issue with kickback, and the pushback that may/will happen is easy to control.
I am sure that the boring itself will be faster (more effective) with a wider nose, as the chain is closer to cutting in a proper way at the tip.
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I understand what you're saying Niko and you made some good points.
I was just making a point about the the smoothness of the 9T narrow radius nose starting and making the bore cut with todays Anti-Vibe/Comfort chains, and also the time saved starting the cut with the "straight in" approach making up for any loss of cutting time compared to the 11T nose.
Man that was a mouth full :D ;D
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Well the week of our festival has come. I just picked up these 3 beauties from my Husky dealer / sponsor this morning, at the same time I went to Waughs sawmill and picked up 2-spruce 16 ft 10"x10"s. Last pic is from about 4 festivals ago when my sponsor gave me these 576XP ATs for my competition, now retired for the 550XPs.
Husqvarna 550XPs born in the 900 count section of the 49th week of 2012. Sporting 18" -.325 H21 chisel chains. No Stihl Ultra mix in these saws, I'm running Husqvarna semi -synthetic and their own lo temp bar oil.
My dealer told me to run them in. Anyone here with some expert advice? Just run them in for the 5 min WOT as the manual says?
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I don't have a clue what would be best on a new saw because I've only owned one new one in my life time .On those rebuilds I run them a tad rich on fuel for a couple of tanks then lean them out and flog them like a borrowed mule .
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He dont have no choice on the 550 Al ;). I just run my 550 like I stole it and let the autotune do it's thing.
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Ooooh autotune .I'm lost in space again .
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I have a nice pile of random length pieces of 10"x10"s in my back yard left over from festivals years past .I keep 12 two foot long pieces to block my trailer up for the competition. The rest make good cutting pieces which I'm going to run these 3 saws in for about 5 minutes each tomorrow. I think ripping a 3 ft long piece in strips making sawdust should be the ticket.
You notice I have a third spare saw, just in case one of the runners gives me some grief during the contest. ;D
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Just a little update on these 3 brand new 550XPs. Tomorrow is the competition and this evening I filled these saws with fuel and bar oil for the first time. These saws have been sitting in my unheated garage for about 4 days and the outdoor temperature has been below freezing, -20C [-4F] on the average.
I purged the primer bulbs until they were full and proceeded to start them. Well after about 50 pulls still no fire, decided to pull the top cover off and pull the decomp valve up thinking more compression may help. Well after about 200 pulls on the starter rope the saw finally fired, then took alot more choking to get to rev up and then idle. The other 2 saws did exactly the same. They start and idle fine now, tomorrow I will run them each at WOT through some wood. My dealer has another 3 new 550s in stock [just in case :o]
600 pulls on the rope to get these saws to start for the first time!! The way I see it these saws are frozen solid and the last time they ran was at room temperature in the factory . Now my thinking is the micro processors can't adjust for the frozen cold conditions right out of the box and takes a while to get running since been set at room temperature at the factory.
If they sat at room temperature at the dealership there should be no problem then right? But nothing in the manual says they have to be started for the first time at room temperature.
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Makes sense.
Ran 346XP NE last week and the OAT was 18-19F or -8C and after a ride in the back of the truck it sure was cold. Started up with the choke on. Last time it was run was hot summer. Was lean as all get out. I had to readjust the needles.
So I'm sure the mixture was all wrong on the 550XP's and cannot reset itself until the chainsaw is run a little?
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Makes sense.
Ran 346XP NE last week and the OAT was 18-19F or -8C and after a ride in the back of the truck it sure was cold. Started up with the choke on. Last time it was run was hot summer. Was lean as all get out. I had to readjust the needles.
So I'm sure the mixture was all wrong on the 550XP's and cannot reset itself until the chainsaw is run a little?
Yes exactly the colder temps makes them run real lean after been setup in warmer conditions. I ran these 550s in this morning right before the contest, 5 minutes WOT making sawdust ripping slabs off dry 10"x10" blocks standing on end. Woke these saws right up, amazing hyper powerband. The pair [1 spare on sidelines, never got used] ran the whole 3 hrs non stop in the mens and womens speed events without a problem. I got alot of positive comments from the competitors who said they were amazed with so much power out of a little saw.
I gotta say they are very impressive little saws right out of the box, better then my well broke in 346NE. The fuel economy is amazing too.
I got some good pics from my photograher, will post ASAP.
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I gotta say they are very impressive little saws right out of the box, better then my well broke in 346NE.
Thats what I noticed too. Stock to stock I like the 550.
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I'm still waiting for pics and videos from a photographer who took pics of my competition, but for now here's one my wife took.
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Just run them in for the 5 min WOT as the manual says?
5 minutes WOT, in decent wood, that is.
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Just run them in for the 5 min WOT as the manual says?
5 minutes WOT, in decent wood, that is.
Niko, I had to show the type of wood that I broke the three 550s in. I ripped 3 blocks like this left over dry 10"x10" spruce block from last years festival to run in the 550s.
The saws were definately nice and warm after 5 minutes WOT through this stuff, ha ha.
The cant the block and saw are sitting on is this years left over green wood. I had two of these cants 16 ft long for the competition.