Chainsaw Repair
How To Basics - Carb Fixes + Mods - IPL and Service Manuals => How To Basics and Fixes => Topic started by: davbell22602 on December 07, 2012, 09:31:00 pm
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I wanna where getting your gas from for your chainsaw? Gas pump? Premixed in a can?
I use the Tru Fuel that Dixie Sales sell. It has no ethenol and will stay fresh for 2 years. It comes in 40 or 50 to 1 mix ratios.
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I just buy regular at the gas station.Never had any trouble. Keeps OK over the winter etc.
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I just buy regular at the gas station.Never had any trouble. Keeps OK over the winter etc.
When I used to buy it at the pump it was regular gas. After 90 days I would have to dump it and mix fresh batch again. I would run into starting issues on my saws. I used the white bottle stihl mix and then switched to the 100:1 by amsoil before using Tru Fuel.
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Amsoil at 100:1 is a no no.
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Why is the Amsoil 100:1 a no no for? Its a synthetic oil mix.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/atp.aspx
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But not at 100:1.
There's not enough oil there to cover the error margin. Amsoil has a lot of antiwear additives besides synthetic oil in the formula.
If you are a prolific chainsaw runner and you keep the bar buried all day, you will soon gall a piston. And the guy that tears the engine down will immediately see the lack of oil on the piston. I have a Dolmar here that a guy ran on Amway 100:1 and I have the galled piston and cylinder to prove what happens.
If you are compelled to use Amsoil, use it with a more realistic oil ratio like 50:1
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But not at 100:1.
There's not enough oil there to cover the error margin. Amsoil has a lot of antiwear additives besides synthetic oil in the formula.
If you are a prolific chainsaw runner and you keep the bar buried all day, you will soon gall a piston. And the guy that tears the engine down will immediately see the lack of oil on the piston. I have a Dolmar here that a guy ran on Amway 100:1 and I have the galled piston and cylinder to prove what happens.
If you are compelled to use Amsoil, use it with a more realistic oil ratio like 50:1
I didnt know this about the amsoil oil mix. I quit using it anyways cause for some reason it doesnt work in lawnoby 2 cycle mowers. I have to use a mix I can use in everything 2 cycle from mowers to weedeaters to chainsaws. I dont use enough of the mix to keep a 2 gas cans mixed with 2 different ratios of mix. Thats why I use the 50:1 Tru fuel in the can.
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+1
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I wish I could afford the trufuel 40:1. I buy 5 gal at a time and go through it pretty quickly. 93 octane E-10 that usually has 12%-15%. So I use Klotz KL-200 which stays mixed with alcohol. I cant find non ethanol gas from the local pumps.
Every customers saw gets dumped into glass jar to check their fuel while working on it. I then fill with mine. Tune with mine at 32:1 and gives me a peace of mind it will be richer when they run their 50:1.
Only had 1 saw so far that I had to re-tune that was running stihl dino 50:1 and it was just way to fat.
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Is it just me, or do others think that of late it`s become a peeing contest as to who can use the LEAST amount of oil in the premix, in my fairly long motorcycle road racing[ 30+years] career a good part of that time with 2 strokes, the 3 different tuners of my bikes all said the same thing. More oil[within reason]= more power, to quote a point my RS125 Honda at 40-1 produced 44BHP at the rear wheel @ 12800rpm At 30-1 it worked out @45.6BHP@ 13200rpm this was using Castrol A747 syn oil. Now I know we are talking different type engines [but they have the same basic operating system, requiring oil/fuel mix for lubrication] so in my opinion this holds good in all types of 2 stroke motors, surely saving a few pence/cents on less oil in each fuel mix is not worth losing the piece of mind + maybe the additional cost of piston & cylinder & possibly worse by going less on the lubrication I have chainsaws dating from 1967 /2006 & never run less than 32-1[ Stands back & awaits incoming] ::)
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Well I know new equipment such as chainsaws, weedeaters, etc. If the fuel mix ratio doesnt match the OEM ratio then it voids the warranty of it.
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My new husqvarna blower said 50:1 but it has had a flavor of 32:1 since new.
I dont care what the OEM or EPA says on running their 50:1.
Is it just me, or do others think that of late it`s become a peeing contest as to who can use the LEAST amount of oil in the premix, in my fairly long motorcycle road racing[ 30+years] career a good part of that time with 2 strokes, the 3 different tuners of my bikes all said the same thing. More oil[within reason]= more power, to quote a point my RS125 Honda at 40-1 produced 44BHP at the rear wheel @ 12800rpm At 30-1 it worked out @45.6BHP@ 13200rpm this was using Castrol A747 syn oil. Now I know we are talking different type engines [but they have the same basic operating system, requiring oil/fuel mix for lubrication] so in my opinion this holds good in all types of 2 stroke motors, surely saving a few pence/cents on less oil in each fuel mix is not worth losing the piece of mind + maybe the additional cost of piston & cylinder & possibly worse by going less on the lubrication I have chainsaws dating from 1967 /2006 & never run less than 32-1[ Stands back & awaits incoming] ::)
JMO I think it is the same way with chainsaw motors. When I was racing them I was using 24:1
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Well I know new equipment such as chainsaws, weedeaters, etc. If the fuel mix ratio doesnt match the OEM ratio then it voids the warranty of it.
I`m some what con fused by this statement , should a small motor require warranty work & you return to point of purchase, does the dealer , or does he/she have to send a sample of pre mix off to the manufacturer to get the oil content checked. I only ask as my local dealer [Husky & Oleo Mac] checks to see if there is oil in it, not how much, I know the only warranty he voids is if it`s straight gassed
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I do my own stuff and don't want a dealer messing with it or trying to find fault or second guess with what I do.
If I were going to take a chainsaw to a dealer, I'd drain all the gas out of it!
I run 32:1 in everything.