Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Hill Billy on December 30, 2012, 08:47:11 pm
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Hello, I was just given this saw because it needs a top and bottom rebuild. It's old owner was told it would run him close to the cost of a new saw to repair, so he bought a new one. Anyway, I have done top end on dirt bikes, but never a saw. I'm looking for a repair manual, hopefully a download, since I got he saw in a box. I would also like some ideas on parts to rebuild the saw ie... $20.00 no name piston kit, something in the middle price range or OEM parts, this goes for the crank also. Lastly, the best place to purchase these parts. Thanks for you help!
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Look in your mail, I just sent you a workshop manual and a illustrated parts list
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Thanks for the info, any thoughts on best bang for your buck parts?
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Do you have the older xp 50mm with de-comp out side of cylinder or the newer 50mm xp XT with de-comp on the top of cylinder going through top cover?
Lot of cylinders can be clean up, pistons too. Pics?
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I have some of the ones with the decompression button on the chain side. They run pretty good as stock. Maybe a second port on the muffler?
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Thanks to all for the service manuals.
The piston skirt on the intake side was broken, about 4-5mm across and 2-3 mm up the skirt, so it's an ash tray. However the jug seems to be ok, no gouges or any thing that jumps out at me. I would like to clean some of the carbon from the inside top of the cylinder and be sure. It's a "MAHLE" cylinder with the De-Comp on the side. Are these coated, so I should not hone the jug. I do still see some cross-hatch in their. Piston is 50mm. Once I split the case I'll know about the crank, but I'm think to replace as a kit.
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Disclaimer--I've never seen, handled, or used a Meteor piston.
A lot of folks like the Meteor pistons for their quality, but many say use OEM circclips in place of the ones provided by Meteor. I noticed this OEM piston on feePay, it's listed for a Jonsered 2071/2171, but might also be for a 372:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200856942308?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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Thanks to all for the service manuals.
The piston skirt on the intake side was broken, about 4-5mm across and 2-3 mm up the skirt, so it's an ash tray. However the jug seems to be ok, no gouges or any thing that jumps out at me. I would like to clean some of the carbon from the inside top of the cylinder and be sure. It's a "MAHLE" cylinder with the De-Comp on the side. Are these coated, so I should not hone the jug. I do still see some cross-hatch in their. Piston is 50mm. Once I split the case I'll know about the crank, but I'm think to replace as a kit.
I wouldn't be doing very much to that cylinder in the way of honing. Run a little fine crocus cloth or wet/dry paper around in it with some oil and then clean it out.
The cylinder is most likely chromed. Make sure the worn out broken piston pieces didn't mess up the cylinder or anything else? Get all the pieces out of the bearings and crankcase?
Some of those Chinese pistons look pretty good but you cannot depend on which one you are going to get and they cost just as much as a Meteor.
Chinese rings are terrible. Use caber rings
The Meteor piston can be had in single ring.
The single ring is thicker than the twin rings.
Use the original circlips on the wrist pin.
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wouldn't be doing very much to that cylinder in the way of honing. Run a little fine crocus cloth or wet/dry paper around in it with some oil and then clean it out.
The cylinder is most likely chromed. Make sure the worn out broken piston pieces didn't mess up the cylinder or anything else? Get all the pieces out of the bearings and crankcase?
Some of those Chinese pistons look pretty good but you cannot depend on which one you are going to get and they cost just as much as a Meteor.
Chinese rings are terrible. Use caber rings
The Meteor piston can be had in single ring.
The single ring is thicker than the twin rings.
Use the original circlips on the wrist pin.
Sounds like Meteor pistons are the best deal. Are the single rings better then double?
Who has the best prices on the piston kits? Also, I know the crank bearings are bad, the rod will not make a full turn with much effort. If the crank and rod look ok on inspection would you reuse or just replace the entire crank assembly? If replace, again who has the best product for the best price? Much thanks in advance..
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I like the idea of the single rings but all my 372's are double ring except one that only has one ring on a double ring piston.
After you get the case split and the crank out, I would carefully inspect the rod/crank bearing. If you feel any roughness you can not clean out or any up down slop at all, it will need to be replaced. Some of the Hong Kong cranks are OK. I would buy from a good place?
The bearings are SKF 6202 C3. I've seen the genuine articles - two for $15 online lately. These will probably come as double shielded or rubber sealed but you can take them off.
There are far eastern gasket and seal kits floating around on a card together from several sources.
People like to buy the Meteor pistons from the Greek from Ebay but many other places sell them too.
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I have been getting the best deals from here on new afm meteor. http://www.northwoodsaw.com/store/
Used oem pistons $17 and shipping. (check used rings) Might need to put new caber rings on though. http://store.chainsawr.com/products/husqvarna-372-chainsaw-piston-kit
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Thanks for all the info guys, it's been a big help. As it stands now, I know I'll need a piston kit, sounds like Meteor is the best deal, still unsure about a single ring though is it as durable as a double ring?
The crank bearings are destroyed, so I'll need those. Anything to look for with the rod or crank besides obvious wear or gouges to let me know I should replace it as a unit?
Lastly, splitting the case without a case splitter, is this possible?
Thanks again for all the help and input... Respectfully jason
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There have been a lot of people to split them and never own a splitter.
A hot air heat gun and a soft hammer helps
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A single ring is wider (1.5mm) than a single twin ring (1.2mm). Therefore is more stable. The only 372's with twin rings are those in the USA.
The Husqvarna 365 Special which is the same chainsaw as the 372XP except for the bore of the cylinder has a single ring
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Lots of people leave off the bottom ring. Top ring does all the work. 281 and 288's are single ring. I bought OEM 371 single ring piston for my 372. Got a deal on it or would have used a Meteor. Get the Meteor it's good to go. Meteor piston comes with good Caber rings.
Shep
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Thanks, I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get the crank out for inspection.
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Pay attention to big end rod bearing movement up down, not side to side. 372 365 etc was bad about them.
I split and put new crank bearings and seals in a 365 special to ship out and totally missed the play in big end bearing :-[ :o. Good thing the builder of the alky 4 ci caught it. So I sent another crank out. He sent me the old crank to see for myself and I dont know how I missed it but I did. So pay attention to bearing up down play or not.
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Split the case tonight, found bad crack on clutch side. Looks like I'll need to replace, any good sources for used cases? I found "New" after market cases, both sides on ebay for about $65.00. What do you think about these? I also need to press the crank out of the fly wheel side seems pretty tight any good ideas, I don't have a press.
One last question, the rod bearings caused the break down, the rod/bearings and crank is one complete unit right, or can I replace just the rod bearings? Thanks again Jason
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You cannot replace the rod bearings
My experience with used cases is deplorable. There was a 372 case for sale on Ebay the other day talking about it being a good used serviceable case. You could see terrible white rot in the bearing pockets to where I doubt it even holding a bearing.
People will try to sell anything on Ebay.
My personal experience is striped threads in the bolt holes that you cannot see in the pictures.
Typically the holes for the front spike are so wallowed out that a Helicoil will not work in there.
You need a case and a crank
Try to warm up that flywheel case half to get the bearing to release. Most of us use the oven. Hard to use a torch there.
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I looks to me to be only two or three years old but someone soaked it in a caustic cleaner and it ate up all the bare areas. It is now worthless. It has been there 4 days now and no one has bid on it luckily.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-CHAINSAW-365-365XP-372-372XP-CRANK-CASE-ASSEMBLY-PART-503626808-/170971735330?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ceb5a522
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Thanks for the quick response. What do you think of the "Hong Kong" Aftermarket cases on ebay?
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Some of the Hong Kong stuff is OK and some is not.
You might want to buy from a good USA source instead of China itself
Call this guy and talk to him
http://store.chainsawr.com/collections/husqvarna?page=49
Or this guy
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_list&c=2
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BIN oem crankcase and crank http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-371K-cut-off-concrete-saw-crankcase-crank-case-with-crankshaft-/290833550696?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b707cd68
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http://stores.ebay.com/HLSProParts/_i.html?_nkw=husqvarna+372&submit=Search&_sid=86893931
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The bearing and seal surfaces are still good by the picture. The mag rot on the seal lips are pretty normal, it seems that water vapor collects there after shutdown. As for the rest, it looks like it took a trip through a jet spray and no one hosed it off. Most of the white stuff is left over cleaner and will dissolve in water with a little scrubbing.
Unless the rest of the saw is really clean I not sure it would be worth fixing. Case, crank, bearing, seals, and piston you are close to the price of a running saw.
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I have several 365/372 case halves and saws too that have wallowed out bolt holes here and there. The holes, many times, are too big for Helicoils.
You can almost bet on the brake handle screw hole on the flywheel side to be at least be stripped out.
The next problem is the spike holes are likely beyond help even with a Time-Sert.
Then the three top cover holes have at least one all wallowed out.
All this is because the operator didn't stop and tighten up a screw. They let a cover screw dance around loose until it ruins the hole.
I bought a well used 365 Special. The operators let two cover screws remain loose and the third screw broke off in the case. Then someone tried to drill out the steel screw from a magnesium hole. The drill went every where except on the screw. The case looks like Swiss cheese around the one cover screw hole and the broken screw is still in there.
I was at a get-together recently and there was a Poulan chainsaw probably 55cc that the spike was jingling all around on. The bottom screw was gone and the top screw was half out. Everyone and his brother made a cut with that chainsaw. No one, not even the owner, tightened it up. The remaining screw could not come the rest of the way out because the screw head was against the bar.
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Found good used case and crank for $50.00, Napa had the crank bearings for $8.00.
I'm going to go with the meteor piston kit, so the only thing left to decide is the gasket set and crank seals.
What do you guys think OEM or can you point me toward a good place to buy after market gaskets and seals. Thanks. Jason
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The gasket and seals are on Fee Bay all the time on a blister card together made in China
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http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=368
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=674
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=675
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=37
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=search_list&s[search]=372+piston&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=Y&s[sku]=Y&s[match]=all&s[cid]=0
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Thanks for the info on seals and gaskets.
I found a "Golf" piston kit for about $25.00 to the door or a "Meteor" kit for about $40.00.
Is it worth the extra $15.00 for the Meteor?
Also, since I don't have a press for the crank, I was thinking cases and crank in the oven to 200, crank bearings in the freezer.
Seat bearings in the case, then quickly attempt to get the crank in. Would the 200 degree case/crank hurt the seals if I put them in prior to placing the crank?
Once thanks for the help you guys are helping my 10 y/o daughter and I do this project together.
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I use 300 degree F and put the seals in later after it cools down.
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I've seen some golf you couldnt even get the pin in. I would go $15 more for meteor or buy used oem first.
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The bearings can be put on the crank with a socket that fits the inner race nicely and a little bit of persuasion without having to do much heating and freezing. I did a 390xp crank bearings like that. A couple taps and the bearings were on.
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The bearings can be put on the crank with a socket that fits the inner race nicely and a little bit of persuasion without having to do much heating and freezing. I did a 390xp crank bearings like that. A couple taps and the bearings were on.
So, are you saying to put the bearings on the crank first and then put the crank with bearings in the case?
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Some people put the bearings on the crank with the bearing being hotter than the crank. (Going to take a pretty deep socket or 3/4" drive otherwise?)
Then they heat the case halves and slide them over the room temperature bearings
The seals are not put in yet
There's more to this story . . . .
After applying the case bolts . . .
The crank is usually then hard to turn or tight in the case. You then need to bump the crank back and forth with a dead blow hammer to loosen it up in the case.
Then the seals
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do you think this is a good way to do it?
Is there a better or easier way to get it done with limited tools?
Thanks Jason
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The ways I had tried on 372.
One was putting case halves in oven to warm and using socket over bearing to push in.
2nd was socket over bearing and used my bench vise to press in each bearing into cases with no heat( Idea old iron logging told me to try)
I always had the crankshafts in the freezer before install about 24hrs. Used center punch to help push through when needed. Then case bolts pulled together.
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I put the bearings on the crank first. I think it was a 14mm deep well socket that worked on the bearings. It is deep enough to seat them all the way down. It didn't take much to put them on. I heated the case halves in the oven and installed the crank with bearings into a warm case. I did have to tap the crank a few times to get it to spin freely.
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When using a socket to press or drive the bearings on the crank or in the case, do use have the socket on the inner or outer edge of the bearing?
Also, I know if I put the bearings in the case first I can bottom them out, but if I put them on the crank first, could I put them on to far, how do you know when to stop?
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The bearings can be bottomed out on the crank.
If putting bearings on the crank - push on the inner race.
If putting bearings in the case, push on the outer race, but if you heat the case, the bearings will drop in with a plunk.
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The 6202 bearings used in the 372 are very commonly available. They are also very common in chain saws.
These bearings if bought from other than the chainsaw dealer will most likely have shields or seals on both sides.
These seals or shields can be removed with a ice pick or scribe before installation.
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The 6202 bearings used in the 372 are very commonly available. They are also very common in chain saws.
These bearings if bought from other than the chainsaw dealer will most likely have shields or seals on both sides.
These seals or shields can be removed with a ice pick or scribe before installation.
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Well, piston "Meteor" and gasket set order today. Daughter is excited and wants to get going on the project. Very cool for a 10 y/o girl!
I just found out that the saw had been in my buddy's trunk for about one year prior to me getting it. I'm thinking the carb will need to be at least cleaned or maybe a rebuild kit for it. It's a Walbro 21-477 3-8 not sure what that means can't seem to find any other numbers on it, any thoughts on ID or if I should clean and inspect or just get a kit coming?
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The carb on a 372 in the USA is a Walbro HD-12B
The complete Walbro carb kit is K10-HD
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"The 6202 bearings used in the 372 are very commonly available. They are also very common in chain saws.
These bearings if bought from other than the chainsaw dealer will most likely have shields or seals on both sides.
These seals or shields can be removed with a ice pick or scribe before installation."
The bearings come pre-greased, should I clean them out prior to instal and then put some of the mix oil on them?
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It doesn't matter about the grease as long as you don't get dirt in the grease. It will sling out of the bearings and go through the engine is short order.
Naturally if the saw is ten below zero when you first start it, the grease will be unbearably stiff.
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I have three Anti-vibration springs accounted for, two on the tank and the one that goes from the cylinder to the handle is this all of them.
Also, on the clutch side the call for a travel limiter bolt, witch I don't have, it was missing when I got the saw, is this a special bolt?
I'm having some trouble, cause I'm at the point where I started taking the saw apart, and the rest was done prior to me getting it. Thanks for any help. Jason
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Yes special bolt on right side. If my memory is right. Can use another bolt same length till you get the right smooth ended one.
I can check to see if I have one in my husky bolts.
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There are only three springs for the vibration mounts like you said. . . Two on the tank and one on the cylinder.
The special travel limiter bolt fits in hole under the chain cover back towards the lower part of the upper handle. The bolt has most of the threads turned off in a lathe.
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Ok, do you know if the travel limiter bolt just pushes up against the tank unit? I see a recessed hole in tank unit 5-6 times larger then the M5 bolt that will go through the case, or power head.
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The bolt dont touch anything on the tank till you are pushing hard on it etc and then it will limit the travel inside the O on the tank
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I think Chainsawr has one of these listed on their site? Wait until you see what else you are going to need?
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"The bolt dont touch anything on the tank till you are pushing hard on it etc and then it will limit the travel inside the O on the tank"
Ok, do you know if there is a rubber insert that the bolt, will hit. It just seems like since the hole on the tank is 4-5 times larger then the bolt hole it would have some kind of soft shock absorption.
Thanks again
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No, there's no rubber insert. The screw normally doesn't touch the sides of the tank unless you get the saw hung up and start jerking on it.
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ok, thanks for the info, It just seems like the motor and the tank have a lot of play with just the two springs and rubber bumper up front and the rubber post in the rear. Lots of rocking, again this is my first time, and the saw was all ready torn down to this point when I got it.....
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ok, thanks for the info, It just seems like the motor and the tank have a lot of play with just the two springs and rubber bumper up front and the rubber post in the rear. Lots of rocking, again this is my first time, and the saw was all ready torn down to this point when I got it.....
When you put the one on the cylinder to the handle that will all stop.
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Thanks again for the help....
Question the "Meteor" piston and ring set, with the ring it has a bevel cut to it, should it be placed on the piston like this \ / or the reverse. Thanks
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Normally, the way the pin is positioned in the ring land of the piston. The pin is positioned in the top side of the land. The ends of the ring fit on either side of this pin. The ring is radiused on the ends to fit around the pin yet be prevented from rotating around the piston by the pin.
Look at this feature of your piston and ring.
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ok so I think your saying that the long end of the ring should be on the bottom, so that when the ring compresses it just touches the pin in the top portion of the land or ring grove.
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correct
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Carburetor settings for basic "Running In" states 1 1/4 turns on both the High and Low. Is this from the screwed in or tightened position?
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Yes, and you have to remove the limiters or stops to achieve this.
I just cut the tabs off the limiters.
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Ok, and the limiters or stops are the plastic cap that are on the screws, right?
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Yes I just trim them down till you have full turning adjustment.
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These plastic caps have ears on them that keep you from turning the needles around and around. With the stops you get about 2/3 of a turn is all.
If you just cut the ears off a little screw driver fits in the slots nicely without slipping out.
If you take the whole cap off and the chainsaw is running, it is almost impossible to keep a screw driver in the slot.
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the ears must have been already cut off, cause I can screw them in all the way.
I want to sincerely thank you for all of your help and insight.
On a side note my father has an 0lder Husky 44, and I'm looking for a service manual like the one you sent me for the 372, do you know where I could get one? Thanks again Respectfully Jason, (In Oregon)
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Husqvarna 44
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-44-rancher/
Service manuals are not available for all models. Once you seen a few of them, they are a lot alike
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Getting close I hope to starting up the 372! On the diagram, it seems to show the exhaust port then the heat shield, gasket and lastly the muffler for reassembly , sound right?
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correct
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Start up today, went ok, ie.... it started, ran for a minute, then let it cool. I have the carb set at the "Run In" settings, but the idle is to high. I have the throttle backed off all the way and it seems like its running at 1/3 throttle or so. Sounds good but won't idle down. Thoughts
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air leak?
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Don't think so, but unsure, New gaskets/seals, air intake boot looked good, Where should I check or is there a way to find out for sure?
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Rechecked jug bolts, needed to be re-torqued. I should have known better, after it cooled the first time to recheck them. Problem solved, runs and sounds great. Will re-post after 3-4 hrs break in period. This site and you guys are the best!!!! Thanks again for all your help with this project I can't wait for my daughter to get home today and hear it run.
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Glad you found your problem. It is not always that simple.
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Where was it leaking air? Adam
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Around the base of the cylinder because the bolts were not tight.
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Ok, saw is running great, went to top off tank and fuel was leaking out. Pulled tank off and it seems to be leaking from a factory hole that has a "rubber??" type hose or line inside. if I blow air into this, fuel shoots out the fuel line. On the IPL page it looks like a bolt or a needle type valve might go into it. I know I didn't remove it, but I'm unsure if it's missing a part. Thanks
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On second look of the IPL, it looks like # 537 09 22-01 is some sort of bolt or shaft, with 537 09 93-01 one way valve or filter???? HELP!
I think this is what I'm missing, but not sure..
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I don't know what year your chainsaw is but the tank vent was changed in 2007.
Before 2007 they had the black plastic stand pipe vent 501 87 31-01 with a little disk of cork or felt 503 60 04-01 stuck in the hole
In 2007 there was a 90 degree fitting 537 09 22-01 went in the hole of the stand pipe 537 09 22-01. Then in 2011 with a rubber hose 544 32 49-06 connected to the elbow fitting went up through a hole into the carburetor air box 503 62 73-03 in a loop and connected to a little spud in the air box floor that vented the tank to the area between the carburetor air box floor and the gas tank.
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thanks for the info, I'll check on the year, but I wounder if it makes a difference how it's set up.
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I have 372's set up all these different ways and have no intention of changing any of them.
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It's pre-2007, just thinking that maybe the latter set up for the vent was better then the pre 07 stuff.
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See if that elbow with fit and stay in your existing stand pipe?
You could even take your existing carb floor and drill two holes in it to loop a piece of Tygon off the elbow and up through the floor to form a secondary air loop.
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I see that there is a punch out spot on the carb base plate next to the fuel line punch out. Might work.
I will have to figure out if the elbow will fit in the hole, it's about a M5 bolt size for 4-6 cm deep, the it steps down in size, must have some sort of ring or seal to hold it in.
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The elbow has some coarse plastic threads on the end that goes up in the tank.
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Vent for the carb is done, saw is running great! I might take it in and see if they will do a compression test just to see. Anyway thanks again for the help with project.