Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: mudbogscrambler on January 19, 2013, 01:02:59 pm
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hi guys
i have a 029 saw that locked while idleing. pulled off the muffler and it is missing a small chunk of the piston. we havent got the cylinder off yet but had some questions.
will we need any specilized tools to get the engine apart?
we see lots of cylinder and piston kits on ebay. is the quality about the same for the repops?
if it needs a cylinder, we were thinking of putting the big bore kit on it.
if we do put the bigbore kit, does the carb need to be rejetted?
lastly does the bigbore kit cause any problem with weakining the stock crank?
thanks for any help :o
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Lately, on the 029, people have been installing the parts for a 039 in the 029. You just retune the needles on the carb. Here they are as a package.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SBNKU+390&catID=
This is the engine itself already put together
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SBN+390&catID=
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You don't need any special tools to get it apart and together if you're just a bit handy. You can go with 039 kit with no problem.
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As I mentioned in Al Smith's 015 thread, I'm rebuilding a 029S,. Polishing the turd I call it.
I received this saw from my Uncle, no muffler and the piston scored, alum. smeared over the rings.
Had some compression and a good spark and the saw looked in good condition over all.
I had a coupon from Bailey's and a new engine would cost about $120.
I did a quick guestimate, for less than $150-$175, I could have a fresh 039.
What a turd this saw turned out to be.
First thing, I broke my piston stop while removing the clutch. it came with my 015.
Then I broke the T27 torx tool in the last mounting bolt. It broke off even with the bolt head, no problem.
I'll knock it lose with a punch, no way, I'll drill a hole and put a SM screw in it and yank it out. that T27 tip was too hard to drill.
The rear bar bolt was frozen in also, double nut didn't work, vice grips either, locked in the bench vice, no way.
A 3/8" drill bit and a cape chisel split the housing enough to free the stuck bolts and remove the engine.
The cost is mounting and I still have to clean the case. Wonder what I'll find after its clean.
So far, I'll need a Decomp plug, fuel and impulse lines, bar nuts and rear stud, muffler and a carb rebuild kit.
This cheap rebuild ain't getting any cheaper.
An as the polishing the turd saga continues, stay tuned for updates.
To the OP, you will need a T27 torx wrench plus some common tools.
FREDM
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An update on the Turd (029/039)
I did get the engine installed and the saw started, made one cut and the saw quit.
The loud rattling sound was the flywheel, it had come loose and sheared the key.
I managed to index the F/W and got the saw running again. Only to have fuel coming out the muff.
I rebuilt the carb and same problem, flooded engine.
Time for a vac/press check. bought a Mity-Vac and did the check, failed/failed. I could hear the air escaping.
Removed the engine from the case and submerged it in a pail of water,lots of bubbles from the split line at the engine to pan mating line.
Removing the pan, I found a very thin line of red sealant and a slight bump in the mating surface.
A little time with some emery on a surface plate got the surfaces square again and a smear of Yamabond sealed it. I started to reassemble the saw and got sidetracked, a load of wood showed up to get bucked and split.
How does the saw run? I don't know, it's still sitting on the bench half assembled.
I got better saws to run than that Turd of a Sthil.
Bottom line, Don't trust China technology.
Take it apart and check, then rework it to make it right.
I may just finish putting it together and give it to my Grandson Mikey, he loves Sthil saws until he needs a big saw, then he wants to borrow the Dolmar 7900. You want the 24",28" or the 32" bar Mikey?
Love that kid, he treats his Grandpa great.