Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: Cut4fun on March 17, 2011, 12:40:08 pm
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I know its the same as the Super 380. I also know the 3750/380 run a larger carb the the PP365. The 330 also runs the bigger carb.
I know my 330 will give my 365 a run for its money and I have a HDA 137 here to try on my 365 if I ever get around to it.
Just got a 365 60cc in on trade. Was told that it will start but not stay started. Havent had time yet to check anything over.
So is the 365 like a older version of the 3750?
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/JD800PP505365012.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/JD800PP505365013.jpg)
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I know its the same as the Super 380. I also know the 3750/380 run a larger carb the the PP365. The 330 also runs the bigger carb.
I know my 330 will give my 365 a run for its money and I have a HDA 137 here to try on my 365 if I ever get around to it.
So is the 365 like a older version of the 3750?
More likely the older version of the Super 380
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See if you think what I am thinking on this. Saw idles fine when cold and first started up. Get saw warmed up and wont idle.
New fuel line and impulse line was already on poulan 365. So I pulled the carb apart to check diaphragms and fulcrum height. Carb kit looked new, but I went ahead and replaced the needle and fulcrum.
Then went to make some test cuts, runs cuts and still no idle for crap.
So quick check for a air leak. Turned on one side and then other side, off raced the idle when flipped to the other side.
So my guess is leaking crankcase seal and will check main bearings when looking closer.
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yes. that makes sense. definitely sucking air somewhere.
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See if you think what I am thinking on this. Saw idles fine when cold and first started up. Get saw warmed up and wont idle.
New fuel line and impulse line was already on poulan 365. So I pulled the carb apart to check diaphragms and fulcrum height. Carb kit looked new, but I went ahead and replaced the needle and fulcrum.
Then went to make some test cuts, runs cuts and still no idle for crap.
So quick check for a air leak. Turned on one side and then other side, off raced the idle when flipped to the other side.
So my guess is leaking crankcase seal and will check main bearings when looking closer.
Could be a bad carb boot . Make sure someone didnt use tygon for a impulse line as well.
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Could be a bad carb boot . Make sure someone didnt use tygon for a impulse line as well.
Yes tygon or at least it's clear yellow and is used on the impulse line ( I think forester is sending some cheap clear yellow line over and people are selling it on ebay as tygon). Why is this a bad thing and why would it cause this symptom?
I gave boot a quick look see, and didnt see anything, but removal of boot before seals is coming.
I have used tygon for impulse line on most of my race saws 5 cube 372, 4ci 262, hotsaw 166.
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Keven short term the Tygon style line will work but it wont take much heat and gets to giving trouble after a while.
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Mark, what are you using for impulse line and where are you getting it?
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I uesally try to use OEM lines but if I can'g get them I use a rubber line like the Homelite fuel lines.
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Did you ever get the PP 365 running?
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On the back burner with the 236 on a shelf 8). I did steal the dawg from it today for the 3750.
Plus I looked 2 more times for those double dawgs in a bag. Now where the :-X :-X did I put that bag down in the barn at :'(.
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Did you ever get the PP 365 running?
Well I passed on a family trip in town to get into the 365 and 236 today. The 365 needs crank bearings and seals. Still runs but you can watch the crank movement and then when not running make it clunk clunk back and forth by hand and a little noticeable up down.
No biggie it's younger brother was there to compare to and really likes it's dawg ;).
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I was getting a order ready for the poulan 365 crank bearing and seals. I noticed that the crank bearing have the same common bearing number as the 372 husky. Am I seeing this right?
530032093 BEARING-BALL (6202) In Stock $5.67
530036176 RING-PISTON In Stock $2.53
530069487 KIT-GASKET (ENGINE) In Stock $5.58
530019146 SEAL-CRANKSHAFT In Stock $2.17
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Had some time to kill today. Just like the PP 330 I tore down the PP 365 dont use a crankcase gasket, only sealant. Sweden made crankshaft ;).
Piston had some scoring on exhaust side and ring stuck. How it ran like it did is beyond me.
Bottom right shows the worm gear puller. Those things are the cats ::) to use to get the worm gear off the crankshaft.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/pp365anflowers007.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/pp365anflowers014.jpg)
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Is the piston salvageable?
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Is the piston salvageable?
Why heck yes it is IMO. I'm not one of those it has to be perfect types to run in a chainsaw ::)
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MOS. Last night talking with a guy at his daughters graduation party. Talked turned to chainsaws after having to get the 4x4 and partner 500 to go get some more bonfire wood. He was telling me he needs a hook up for a bigger saw now that I had shown him the error of his ways in the past. I am the one that gave him the partner 500 muffler modded and runs full skip 3/8 20" cutting hardwoods buried. :o NOT MY CHOICE.
So now he wants more cc. ;D I told him when I am finished with the 365 and it is deemed firewood cutting ready, it will be his for free.
So MOS you giving me that saw on a trade and then me doing labor and parts will be going to a good cause. Guy has been on unemployment for a year and half at least now. Big Diesel mechanic at landfills after his company got bought out and new company brought their own roving diesel mechanic with them.
Just a update where it will be going. ;)
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Thats cool. 8) I hope he puts that 20'' bar on the 365 instead of that 500. ;)
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I just converted a PP330 (New Old Stock) to a SD380 (60cc like the 365) by putting a new jug and slug on it. While I had it off, the cylinder lost about .045", the piston got a raised center of about .040", intake and exuast widened as much as I dared, transfers were raised to about 22* blowdown, compression came in at 190 psi, and it runs pretty decent pulling the .375" x 22" bar.
I'll get some pictures and videos posted this weekend as it is now my favorite "go to" saw.
I'm new to this site so take it easy on me guys.......
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Bet she is a pretty sweet running saw with all that work and psi. Did you do anything with those open transfers? Pics pics pics ;D
I have owned 2 60cc 3750 and both of them run as good as the 262xp and ms361 IMHO. The latest one is posted in a thread here. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-3750-60cc/
It is as new looking as you can get without being NIB. Bad Boy one has chain break and the first 3750 had hand guard and no BB decal.
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Talking about a long time waiting on parts to come in. Just received my Jack's order and they kept updating me on the parts they were waiting on. Once it all came in 1 part was still missing, I'm guessing NLA. I guess thats what I get for putting a monster order together for 4 different saws.
Anyhow pretty interesting on the seal ( 2.5" drywall screw for removal) and crank bearing removal (tried Art's way with a socket and vise).
There is a ring that you use those split ring pliers or whatever they are called to remove out of both sides of the case. It's between the bearing and seal. Reckon that is what the bearing goes up to when reinstalling.
Old crank bearings I took out had made in the USA on them.
Anyhow the guy that has been running the partner 550 till the seals went on strike and the poulan 3450 now for 2 weekends and tomorrow picking up the 3300 and a 330 to ring out for me with his partner 500 still going strong.
Oh he did end up with a job after he exhausted the unemployment. Making half of what he did and now working in a body shop to put food on the table.
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Well pulled a bone head move and ripped the boot trying to put everything back together today. Does anyone know if a poulan 330 boot 530030202 will work on a 365?
Part number were different is why I ask, poulan 365 boot 530027218
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So far it shows these poulan intake boots will work. 2700 2800 3100 3350 3500 3600 305 . Betting on 335 too.
Anyone have a intake boot for sale or trade etc.
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Saving Poulan 365 IPL http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/POULAN-PRO/gas-saws/pp365.pdf
Poulan 330 IPL http://www.odref.com/poulan/pdf/POULAN-PRO/gas-saws/pp330.pdf
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Well the 365 is altogether and started for 1st time yesterday. Was having issues with idle so I quit after I wore myself out.
So after setting all night I went in today to pour the gas out of tank to pull tank vent and carb. Gas came out of the carb while pouring gas from the tank.
I ran new tank vent line and vent seemed ok. On the carb the needle was bad even though it looked new. Wasnt seating and creating leak.
All set and passed without b+c so I put 20" 3/8 on it and starting making test cuts over and over and set her up rich and idling perfect now. Called for the new owner to come pick up his new free saw.
Ended up with new bearings, crank seals, ring, carb boot, new tensioner, carb kit, flocked air filter. Also went without base gasket to provide a little more torque in my way thinking.
Think I will ask him if he burns her up or something else if I could get it back for parts though.
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Just showing the Threebond 1194 used for the crankcase and cylinder. If its good enough for hotsaws it's good enough for stock ones ;).
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/pp365crankcase001.jpg)
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Nice saw Cut.
Call me old fashioned but Im afraid of those sealers without a gasket. I'd of made a paper bag gasket and sealed it with loctite 515. Thin paper bag creases easily where the case halves go together and then just cut it out with a fresh razor blade.
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Well she was finally picked up this morning and heading straight to the woods.
I set him up with a 20" b+c 3/8 050 72dl on a IOU for a case of bud in the future. ;D
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Looks like I am going to get the PP 365 back even though it was given for free. He is just not happy with the torque of the saw with 20" buried in hardwoods. Told him it could be do to new rebuild and the ring hasnt seated and broke in yet.
I ran it here and it runs fine in test wood smaller then bar. Wonder if that small intake and smaller carb has anything to do with it.
The guy prefers the partner 550 over it. So I am going to throw some seals in 550 for him.
To me the 365 runs just like the 3500 I ran at the poulan gtg (not no torque monsters by any means). Heck I always thought the 3750 with bigger carb was a little light in the torque department.
I'm wondering if the rakers may be a little low on the full comp full chisel chain for the saw. I'm thinking 30 thousandths.
I just hope the seals fixes the 550, because me being me prefers the 365.
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Complaining about a free saw? ???
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LOL thats what I thought too. But it is the wife's 1st cousins husband and I used to work with him in the 80's and early 90's. He has taken care of me in the past when I was needing special made bolts etc, when he worked for a fastener place. So it's cool with me. Plus he is the best story teller around when having a few brews. He's good people and he knows I have the 550 and I spoiled him on a partner 500 already.
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IF you want a chain break on your older 365 saws. Just use one from a 330 3450 3750 380 etc. ;D
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/66Impala/330365001.jpg)
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I always thought that a 3750 chain cover and brake assembly would fit on a 3500 which never had a brake?
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I bought a clutch cover with a brake for a 3450 about a year ago, just so I would have a spare that I could switch around to different saws that do not have one. Like you said it will fit alot of different models.
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I had my 365 out today again and I am still shocked at how good thesE things run for the money. I have 3 3500 coming this week to add to my collection. I am going to grab every one of this series I can get.
I also have a WT164 to try out on one.
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That is great...
I have a 365 here that I am going to replace the piston and ring in. I think I am going to drop the cylinder while at it and widen the intake and exhaust just alittle. You are right for the money they cannot be beat. First though I have a 335 that I am putting on a new crankcase that I found for 12 bucks. Sometimes you just have to be patient when looking for parts and then boom something shows up for the right price.
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12 bucks! Thats great
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12 bucks! Thats great
It came with good bearings and seals.
Hey I hope you are going to post about your 3500 when you get them in with a new thread.
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When we were talking about 3500's earlier in another thread. About the one 660mag has here. Did we come up with 54cc and 60cc 3500's? Depending on type 1 2 3 etc?
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When we were talking about 3500's earlier in another thread. About the one 660mag has here. Did we come up with 54cc and 60cc 3500's? Depending on type 1 2 3 etc?
I think so. I believe the type III 3500 is the one that shares the same cylinder and the 3750 60cc saw just as the type III 3450. I have not done alot of research on the 3500 so I do not know for sure.
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I got my 3500 in late 98 and it was my Pro chain saw for several years.
Cut4fun had a couple Tim Taylor The Tool Man specials that are somewhat like a 3750 and they would out cut the 3500 noticeably.
I discovered the intake, carb, and muffler are different. I think the carb is a HDA-49? I think some of Efco 65's used this carb too?
But my 3500 was a lot better than the plastic home owner saws I also had at the time and still is. It runs and looks like new.
My 365 Special Huskies will run circles around it and so will my Dolmar 6000iH.
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I got my 3500 in late 98 and it was my Pro chain saw for several years.
Cut4fun had a couple Tim Taylor The Tool Man specials that are somewhat like a 3750 and they would out cut the 3500 noticeably.
I discovered the intake, carb, and muffler are different. I think the carb is a HDA-49? I think some of Efco 65's used this carb too?
But my 3500 was a lot better than the plastic home owner saws I also had at the time and still is. It runs and looks like new.
My 365 Special Huskies will run circles around it and so will my Dolmar 6000iH.
Is there on your 3500 a tag anywhere telling what type you have. I II III or IV
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Yes and it is talked about in the other thread.
I'm thinking Type III?
Here is a thread but is not the one that has the serial number and type in it.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/3500-1031/msg10225/#new
Type III
Model 530 037686
Serial 97139D 00840
here it is . . .
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/what-was-your-1st-poulan-saw/20/
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Thanks you are right type III. :)
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When we were talking about 3500's earlier in another thread. About the one 660mag has here. Did we come up with 54cc and 60cc 3500's? Depending on type 1 2 3 etc?
I think so. I believe the type III 3500 is the one that shares the same cylinder and the 3750 60cc saw just as the type III 3450. I have not done alot of research on the 3500 so I do not know for sure.
I think it is the PP365 60cc cyl that is used on the T-3 3500. They have the smaller carb and smaller intake 3500 PP365.
Thanks guys for the refresh.
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I have been working on 2 of my 3 burnt up 3500s and they all have the same 60cc cylinder my 365 have and they are type one models. I need intake boots and they are not available. Have you guys tried anything other than OEM boots? I have a couple 066 boots that I think will work.
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I have been working on 2 of my 3 burnt up 3500s and they all have the same 60cc cylinder my 365 have and they are type one models. I need intake boots and they are not available. Have you guys tried anything other than OEM boots? I have a couple 066 boots that I think will work.
I always wondered if the bigger 330 3750 380 intake boots would work. Let us know. ;)
If I had ever tried to port a 3000 305 335 3300 etc that was what I was going to try with the bigger carb also.
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I have seen the boots for the 3750 on ebay, but not for the others.
I like the idea of the bigger boot and carb on a 335 and would be interesting.
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I think it is the PP365 60cc cyl that is used on the T-3 3500. They have the smaller carb and smaller intake 3500 PP365.
Thanks guys for the refresh.
So the cylinder on a 3750 has a larger intake port than the 365. The transfers and exaust ports are the same then.
I am going to have to start measuring this stuff when I have these saws apart for now on. I think I assume to much by just looking.
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The PP330/PP380/3450/3750 boot is still available new for $10-$12 from several places. I just ordered one for my PP330 (even though the old one 'looks' fine). Maybe that can be made to work. You may need the larger metal clamp pieces (that go on either side of the boot flange and plastic carb mount plate) from the PP330/etc saws.............and you may have to enlarge the pass-through hole in your plastic carb mount plate. Just looked up the parts. Looks like one of the two metal plates is shared between the 3500 and the newer saws.
530049273 is the 3450 'stud bracket' SAME AS THE 3450 PART
530049465 is the 3450 'intake bracket' ($1.11 at ereplacementparts)
530027121 is the 3500 'intake bracket' (different than the 3450 part.......so the 'boot hole' is probably smaller in diameter).
530030302 is the 3450 boot ($11.00)
530027285 is the 3450 boot clamp assy. Also the same as the 3500 part. This means that the boot spigot (on the cylinder) must be at least close in diameter between the two saws (3500 and 3450). I bet it's the same.
I'll measure the boot spigot diameter on my PP330 cylinder while I'm out in the shop today.
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This is very interesting stuff, I do think there is a lot of misinformation on these models though. Like 3500 having aluminum bore.
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I think I may have a 330 3450 boot and a 365 3500 3300 boot off saws in the bin. Will look see later to measure where they go on intake of cylinders.
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Now I know why I cant find any intake boots, you have them all!
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Crap! I forgot to measure the boot spigot on my PP330 yesterday. Will do so when I get home from work in the wee hours of tomorrow morning. Sorry guys. Did too many different things while I was out there (including modifying the muffler for my PP330).
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Crap! I forgot to measure the boot spigot on my PP330 yesterday. Will do so when I get home from work in the wee hours of tomorrow morning. Sorry guys. Did too many different things while I was out there (including modifying the muffler for my PP330).
So are we going to get some of pics of the muffler mod on the 330.
I got a new piston and ring assembly in today for my 365 so I will be starting on that as soon as I am done with this Stihl 028 super sitting on my bench right now. I have to say working on a Poulan is much simpler.
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Now I know why I cant find any intake boots, you have them all!
I only listed 2 boots, LOL they just fit those saws listed to show you what to look for.
I do grab up the smaller boots anytime I see them though. If I come across one, I will give you 1st crack. Even though I have a 3300 project with a ripped boot.
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330 I just remove tube and open stock tiny hole the tube was in, up to deflector size and open the holes in the baffle or remove it all together.
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Grrr I went to compare boots on a 335 cylinder and I only had 2 smaller intake boots off. Dont have a 330 3450 3750 380 intake off at the moment.
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I got a new piston and ring assembly in today for my 365 so I will be starting on that as soon as I am done with this Stihl 028 super sitting on my bench right now. I have to say working on a Poulan is much simpler.
[/quote]
How much did the 365 piston cost? I now need 4 lol
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I got a new piston and ring assembly in today for my 365 so I will be starting on that as soon as I am done with this Stihl 028 super sitting on my bench right now. I have to say working on a Poulan is much simpler.
How much did the 365 piston cost? I now need 4 lol
365
PN# 530069549 KIT PISTON
Our Price: $38.42
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365
PN# 530069549 KIT PISTON
Our Price: $38.42
That is a good price. I can tell you I paid more than that.
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So are we going to get some of pics of the muffler mod on the 330?
330 I just remove tube and open stock tiny hole the tube was in, up to deflector size and open the holes in the baffle or remove it all together.
Yep. Unfortunately I didn't shoot any 'before' or 'in progress' pics. Here's the 'after' pics that I shot this morning. Boot spigot on my PP330 cylinder measures out to approximately 1.315".
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Poulan%20Chainsaws/CAM00032.jpg)
Here's the parts. You can see the additional holes I drilled in the diffuser. Put two holes on the side that had the rectangular holes from the factory (top side) and drilled six more on the blank (bottom) side. Removed the tube and enlarged the hole that the tube used to pass through. Hit it with a couple quick coats of high temp BBQ paint.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Poulan%20Chainsaws/CAM00037.jpg)
Set the removed tube in the can to show how much I enlarged the hole. Could have gone bigger, but it's at about 70-75% or exhaust port area (good enough for me) and my grinding stone was pooping out...
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Poulan%20Chainsaws/CAM00034.jpg)
Here you can see the enlarged hole in relation to the deflector. Yes I see that little bur. Again....my little dremel stone was about shot...
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Poulan%20Chainsaws/CAM00039.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Poulan%20Chainsaws/CAM00043.jpg)
Here it is mocked up on the cylinder. Threading the two long bolts in helps get the can lined up while I tighten the short 'inside the can' bolt. When I assembled it on the saw I reinstalled the spark screen. I cut in places that require them, and there is ample screen area exposed here (with all those holes under the screen on the diffuser)...................much more screen area than you see on 288XP outlets, so I'm not worried about the screen restricting my little 54cc saw here. Just noticed that the diffuser is 'upside-down' in the mock up shot (rectangular holes down). It's now assembled on the saw with the rectangular holes facing up (and "top" stamped on the diffuser facing up).:D
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Boot spigot on my PP330 cylinder measures out to approximately 1.315".
Did you measure your cylinder where boot goes on? Not the intake boot outer or inner? If so I can just measure the 335 cylinder setting here.
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Boot spigot on my PP330 cylinder measures out to approximately 1.315".
Did you measure your cylinder where boot goes on? Not the intake boot outer or inner? If so I can just measure the 335 cylinder setting here.
I measured the cylinder where the boot fits over it.
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That muffler looks real good. I forgot about the tube inside those particular muffers. That should let it breathe alittle better.
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Sorry guys I forgot to measure yesterday when I was working in the barn.
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Sorry guys I forgot to measure yesterday when I was working in the barn.
Don't sweat the CRS (Can't Remember Sh) too much. It's going around.......
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Just put PP330,3450,3750 intake boot on my 3500. The intake spigot/snout on the 2800-3500 is the same size as the PP330. Boot is perfect fit. Also changed the HDA49 to a HDA164. Didnt have a intake bracket for larger carb. so I ground out the smaller one to fit the 164. It's now snoutless. I don't think it will be a problem as there is plenty of sealing surface. Next Jacks order I'll probably get a couple intake brackets PN: 530049465 for larger carbs. Bought a 365 last night pretty decent runs on a prime. Don't know why I got 2-3450's a PP330 a 3300 and a 3000 to go through. Wife is gonna have a fit. Good news is she will eventually get over it (I hope). I passed on two new never fueled saws last week a deal on both been kickin my A for not buying them. My problem is they come here and then they stay.
Shep
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Can I have the info on the saws you passed on please!
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Can I have the info on the saws you passed on please!
Easy tiger.... ;D
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Aaron,
When I have an itch I scratch. Got to get some more saws I wont ever run.
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LOL. I see your point Andy.
Now go find me a good PP380, 3750, 3450 T-3, 3700, 4000, PP375, or PP395.:D
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Can I have the info on the saws you passed on please!
Makita 6421 $400 NIB, Echo CS330T $210 NIB both sold. Sorry!
Shep
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Yucky, I thought you were talking about New 3500s
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Can I have the info on the saws you passed on please!
Makita 6421 $400 NIB, Echo CS330T $210 NIB both sold. Sorry!
Shep
Dang! That is a good price for a NIB 6421.
A "pallet" warehouse (they buy overstock, clearance, unclaimed, etc. merchandise by the pallet) not far from me has recently been running ads for NIB chainsaws on CL. I need to go have a look around and maybe leave a phone number, even though I have never purchased a "new" chainsaw.
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Yucky, I thought you were talking about New 3500s
If it had been I would have incurred the wifes wrath! ;D
If you check out that warehouse let me know what you find.
Shep
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Can I have the info on the saws you passed on please!
Makita 6421 $400 NIB, Echo CS330T $210 NIB both sold. Sorry!
Shep
Dang! That is a good price for a NIB 6421.
A "pallet" warehouse (they buy overstock, clearance, unclaimed, etc. merchandise by the pallet) not far from me has recently been running ads for NIB chainsaws on CL. I need to go have a look around and maybe leave a phone number, even though I have never purchased a "new" chainsaw.
Keep me in the loop too. A "new" PP380, PP395, PP375, Poulan 3750, Poulan 3450 T3, or something else equally cool would certainly get my attention.:D
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Is it safe to remove the exhaust port insulator on a Puolan Pro 330?
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I have removed the insulator from a number of different Poulan saws that I have and had no problems.
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Thank You!
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Brian are you planning on modifying the muffler or anything else on your saw or just removing the insulator? When you remove the insulator it will leave a little bit of a step in the port but it is nothing to worry about. The Poulan 260's, 295's and the 330 that I have all had the insulator and I removed them.
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I'm going to match the muffler to the port. I have already removed the tube inside the muffler and opened up the exit hole in the muffler. I'm also going to open up the baffle some. I just wanted to be sure it won't hurt the cylinder without the insulator.
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Even if left stock. I always remove them if it's my saw.
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I'm going to match the muffler to the port. I have already removed the tube inside the muffler and opened up the exit hole in the muffler. I'm also going to open up the baffle some. I just wanted to be sure it won't hurt the cylinder without the insulator.
Alright. That will make it run better. Do not forget to adjust the carb when your done.
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Just adding a few pics of a PP 365 I just finished. Another really great running saw.
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Nice. impulse location on this one?
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On the crankcase.
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I've been studying the pictures +++
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I've been studying the pictures +++
Thanks 660magnum. It has a square ground chain on it.
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Just trying to save info so it dont have to be posted over and over. Maybe it will be found in searches.
Poulan clutch and worm puller tools
Eccentric
530031116 for the clutch removal tool.
530031115 for the oil pump worm gear puller.
Detailed Product Specs:
This is a Poulan & Poulan Pro chainsaw clutch removal tool. The pins on the removal tool are 1/4" in diameter and are spaced 1" apart when measured from the center of each pin. This tool is used with the 530014161 clutch, which is used on the following models: 2700, 2800, 3000, 3000CB, 3100, 3300, 3350, 3450 (types 1,2, & 4), 3500, 3600, Poulan Pro models PP285, PP305, PP330, PP335, PP336, PP336C, PP365, and PP365C.
clutch puller http://www.mowers4u.com/poulan-weedeater-530031116-poulan-poulan-clutch-removal-tool-p-2115.html
worm puller http://www.outdoordistributors.com/static/poulan-weedeater/PWE-530031115.html
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Nice saw Roger!
Newbie question. How do you clean the outside of your cylinders up?
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Nice saw Roger!
Newbie question. How do you clean the outside of your cylinders up?
When I am doing a rebuild like I did on that saw and I have the cylinder off I put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with some dish soap.
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I have a friend that bought this used (old style) Dolmar 115 piston/cylinder from Ebay. Scroll down to the original listing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Sachs-dolmar-115-I-cylinder-and-piston-assembly-027130010-027130033-/180796538011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a18503c9b&nma=true&si=QfTybNNTxHyDs0%252BeLG4bmIVRMY4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
It was to go on a model airplane engine. This C/P looked amazingly nice when he brought it over to the house. He wasn't going to use the piston anyway, just the cylinder. But the cylinder looked almost new and the piston looked great on the exhaust side and slightly scored but very usable in the intake side. In the picture, the piston looks unusable.
He said he sand blasted them? Had to have been with walnut shells? I could see where he had masked the openings on the cylinder. He just had to have used a Ultra sonic cleaner on them too? He runs a plumbing, heating, and air conditioning business in Galion, Ohio near where I live.
He has a lot of model airplanes and engines but he's not known to be a engine man.
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I do know if I would want to sand blast a piston walnut shells or not. I would have to do some R&D on that if was going to use the piston. The ultrasonic cleaner is not a bad way to go on cylinders. A lot of times I am widening the ports some and cleaning them up and they get full of small pieces of aluminum and I just like to make sure they are clean.
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I had a 23' cabin type sailboat in the early 90's and I wanted to clean the brass hinges for the rudder. So I took them into work and bead blasted them. They looked brand new and I re-installed them on the fiber glass sailboat. The next spring when I went to launch the boat, the hinges were a rusty mess with rust streaks running down the back of the boat.
Apparently, the bead media was full of iron/steel and what have you? I didn't change out the beads before I used the blaster.
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Did anyone else see the Poulan Pro 365 on eeeeeeeeeeeeeeebay that brought 256.00 + shipping????? :o
Mike
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Did anyone else see the Poulan Pro 365 on eeeeeeeeeeeeeeebay that brought 256.00 + shipping????? :o
Mike
Yep I saw it and thought the same. It does make it tempting to sell one though.
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That's nuts. Like the $400+ rough 245A... ???
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Decided today with some free time on hand to pull the PP365 in original post back down for a new or good used piston I have on hand.
Only reason for tear down was I had used and cleaned up the scored topend for a friend at one time when I gave the saw to him for free. Now I have extra 60cc pistons.
Also was considering the extra 3750 164 carb and bigger intake boot etc I have on hand for the 60cc 3450 project.
Butttttt I just couldnt bring myself to grind open the original tank area. So I grabbed my 3450 tank and compared. The 3450 tank is about 1/4" wider then the 365 tanks measured on top behind trigger and back fuel tank area under trigger. So much for that idea and I dont need bigger carb anyway.
So I pulled the topend which was no base gasket was used and Threebond 1194 instead. No problems cleaning 1194 off. Just finger nail and scrape the excess off at edges. Nothing to worry about at mating surface.
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New piston kit installed today. Cleaned up cylinder a little more and installed with intake boot. Went back with base gasket.
Should get finished up when time allows.
Found another 164, so 2 on hand.
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Took a pic of the new piston through exhaust outlet but you cant tell nothing.
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PP365 done.
I was able to use the 6mm x 3mm fuel line for impulse line also. Thought why not even though thicker then oem line. Was tighter fit above carb fitting I noticed.
Replacement fuel line for Echo and other equipment. Measures 3mm ID x 6mm OD. http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1452&cc=1
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Good firewood saw there Kevin. I had mine out the other day cutting up some elm. I forgot how good that saw runs.
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Did you ever get the PP 365 running?
Just a update Ron. I went ahead and pulled her back down and put a new piston kit in it. Wasnt needed as other piston cleaned up decent IMO with new ring. I just happen to have 2 pistons on hand.
Made test cuts today and even a stocker with 20" 3/8 RSC chain mad me smile alittle.
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Cool Kevin! I like to see those old saws run again. What's the 365 comparable to?
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The 365 has 60cc cylinder like the 3750, 365 has smaller intake boot and smaller carb. The 3750 IMO is on par with 262. So I would say 365 less then those 2 by a little margin.
Probably take a stop watch to see the difference.
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So it is like the Poulan 3500? But with a brake
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Mine dont have a brake and like a 3500. But 330 380 brake covers go right on 365 and you would never know the difference.
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PP365 IPL http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulanpropp365chainsaw.pdf
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Here's what I like about the 365 3500 60cc set ups. PHO hand guard no brake cover weight.
Rogers 365 pic.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2922.0;attach=5281;image)
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Jim you buy the 330 380 clutch cover with brake and put a 365 sticker on it or leave blank and most wont know the difference.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/66Impala/330365001.jpg)
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My older son uses the 3500 all the time. (His favorite) He's never mentioned the lack of a brake? Yet on the other saws he uses the brake as described in the owner's manual.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Poulan35001997.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/Poulan35001997.jpg.html)
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You could put a green 3450 3750 brake cover on it if you felt he needed it. About $30 new.
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I've been gonna do that for the last decade
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You could put a green 3450 3750 brake cover on it if you felt he needed it. About $30 new.
You might want to check the fly wheel and pulley for the recoil first. I do not believe the 3750 and 3500 are a match. Just something to check IIRC.
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You could put a green 3450 3750 brake cover on it if you felt he needed it. About $30 new.
You might want to check the fly wheel and pulley for the recoil first. I do not believe the 3750 and 3500 are a match. Just something to check IIRC.
Roger I'm not understanding. We were talking about clutch cover, not recoil cover.
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You could put a green 3450 3750 brake cover on it if you felt he needed it. About $30 new.
You might want to check the fly wheel and pulley for the recoil first. I do not believe the 3750 and 3500 are a match. Just something to check IIRC.
Roger I'm not understanding. We were talking about clutch cover, not recoil cover.
Your right my bad. Senior moment. Clutch cover is a whole different story.
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My wife and I both have those moments. But then again we are both seniors
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You had me thinking about it. Which is good. ;) 8)
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My wife and I both have those moments. But then again we are both seniors
Repairing to many weed eaters at work. I must have done 20 of those things in the last 3 days.
Spring time and everyone is starting to find out leaving bad gas in them over winter is not good for them.
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20 in 3 days
nooooooooooooooooo
I feel for you Roger.
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I've been working on Stihl FS55R's.
Gas is not as bad around here as in some areas.
Takes some 10 years for gas/oil mix to turn black.
Son brought an old 1967 Simplicity rotor tiller around the other day. I could smell the old gas. It started up and ran but the intake valve eventually stuck in it. 4Hp B&S. I pulled the head and PB blasted the intake stem. Beat the valve down with a hammer. It runs great. Well built, hardly used. Has reverse.
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Back to the subject at hand.
I have another 365 here that I need to do a piston and ring in just like you did Kevin.
I also have a 3500 I need to work on and get going that has a good piston and cylinder,
and I have another 3750 I need to get going.
Just waiting for the house to get built and then get a work shop in order. Patients.
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Those are good saws
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I have never used a 3500 or worked on one until I got this one. I believe this is the one that I bought on eBay and when it arrived the clutch drum was welded right to the clutch itself. The spring and weights that push out we're missing and it was welded right to what was remaining.
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1st page side exit 365 muffler Roger. No chain brake saw. Check info in 3500 thread at end.
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TTT for someone looking.
Latest poulan pro 365 poulan 3500 craftsman 3.7 60cc pics in this thread. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/craftsman-3-7-60cc-24'/
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Well guys I finished up my second PP365. List of things done on this saw.
Opened up the ports. Intake and exhaust.
Ground on the top of the transfer ports to direct them a little more towards the intake.
Opened the bottom of the transfer ports a little.
Thinned the bottom of the divider between the transfer ports to get better flow.
Dropped the cylinder to a squish of .022"
Port matched the intake rubber boot to the cylinder.
Port matched the muffler to the exhaust port of the cylinder.
Installed new crank seals.
Advanced the timing.
Installed a new OEM piston and ring.
The cylinder was a used one I have had hanging around for the last 3 years or so.
I used a ball hone on it to soften all the edges of the ports. Less chance of hanging a ring. Then ultrasonic for getting it really clean.
Changed the carb over from a HDA 49 to the HDA 164. Bigger carb.
Installed a new rubber intake boot for the larger carb.
Put on a used metal plate and gasket that goes between the carb and rubber intake boot. Required for the bigger carb. I got it from a 330 parts saw.
Modified the muffler.
Tuned the saw to 4 stroke at 13,000 RPM's with the bar and chain on.
This is not a race saw but a good running working saw that I will use in the mountains come summer time.
One more thing about the PP365 is that it weighs less than the 3750 but with these modifications it now has the same output power.
Ran the saw today and it will flat get with the program. I really like this series of saws from Poulan and with the right modification can really be made to run.
First a few pics of the cylinder while I had it off and all the work was completed on it.
Then a few more pics of the muffler mod.
The pic with the flat piece of metal laying next to it is what I used to do my muffler mod.
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I bet she is a good runner.
I wonder how much she gained with the bigger intake and carb.
Someday I will get around to testing this on a stock one. In three steps.
1. small boot and 49 carb
2. small boot and 164 or 137 carb
3. big boot and 164 or 137 carb.
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With the bumped up compression and the bigger carb it revs nice and quick. They are so easy to work on also.
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Well guys I finished up my second PP365. List of things done on this saw.
Opened up the ports. Intake and exhaust.
Ground on the top of the transfer ports to direct them a little more towards the intake.
Opened the bottom of the transfer ports a little.
Thinned the bottom of the divider between the transfer ports to get better flow.
Dropped the cylinder to a squish of .022"
Port matched the intake rubber boot to the cylinder.
Port matched the muffler to the exhaust port of the cylinder.
Installed new crank seals.
Advanced the timing.
Installed a new OEM piston and ring.
The cylinder was a used one I have had hanging around for the last 3 years or so.
I used a ball hone on it to soften all the edges of the ports. Less chance of hanging a ring. Then ultrasonic for getting it really clean.
Changed the carb over from a HDA 49 to the HDA 164. Bigger carb.
Installed a new rubber intake boot for the larger carb.
Put on a used metal plate and gasket that goes between the carb and rubber intake boot. Required for the bigger carb. I got it from a 330 parts saw.
Modified the muffler.
Tuned the saw to 4 stroke at 13,000 RPM's with the bar and chain on.
This is not a race saw but a good running working saw that I will use in the mountains come summer time.
One more thing about the PP365 is that it weighs less than the 3750 but with these modifications it now has the same output power.
Ran the saw today and it will flat get with the program. I really like this series of saws from Poulan and with the right modification can really be made to run.
First a few pics of the cylinder while I had it off and all the work was completed on it.
Then a few more pics of the muffler mod.
The pic with the flat piece of metal laying next to it is what I used to do my muffler mod.
Roger, I was looking at the 365 air filter style used on the 49 carb. The opening that goes to carb side in AF. The 164 137 big carb with bigger area.
Did you open the hole in the air filter up to match carb as close as possible?
Seems like we should be doing this if there is very much difference, just from my quick look today without any measuring.
Thinking of pulling my 60cc 365 tank and putting it on the 49cc and using the 3450 330 etc tank on the 365 instead of the other way.
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Sorry I was up in Yellowstone again on another horse back trip.
I will to check the air filter on that Poulan 365 now that it has the bigger carb. I do not believe it was something that I did to it. Thanks for the reminder.
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I was up in Yellowstone again on another horse back trip.
Must be nice. Wish I could afford a vacation back out there just for the site seeing.
Guess I will see what is retirement like when the son is all out of college etc. Then maybe then I will take the trip to show the wife where I used to live out there in the early 80's.
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I will to check the air filter on that Poulan 365 now that it has the bigger carb. I do not believe it was something that I did to it. Thanks for the reminder.
I just checked air filter base to big carb. Wasnt off near as bad as I thought on quick look see.
Looks right at same going around on top and lower. The sides could be opened some near the carb bolt area.
Is it really needed? Maybe maybe not. :-\
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I will to check the air filter on that Poulan 365 now that it has the bigger carb. I do not believe it was something that I did to it. Thanks for the reminder.
I just checked air filter base to big carb. Wasnt off near as bad as I thought on quick look see.
Looks right at same going around on top and lower. The sides could be opened some near the carb bolt area.
Is it really needed? Maybe maybe not. :-\
Yep I just got through checking it out. I took a burr and flex shaft and opened it up where the sides are for the carb bolt areas are. May not make much of a difference but I did it anyways. You can cut it back just enough to get the clearance without going all the way through the plastic where the two mounting screws are for the filter.
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I was up in Yellowstone again on another horse back trip.
Must be nice. Wish I could afford a vacation back out there just for the site seeing.
Guess I will see what is retirement like when the son is all out of college etc. Then maybe then I will take the trip to show the wife where I used to live out there in the early 80's.
It is nice to go and do these things but this trip got canceled a little early. To many train wrecks with the horses and mules and so I told the BIL that it was time to pack it in and come out before someone got hurt bad. I am getting to old to be taking any chances on horses or mules that will not behave in some pretty remote wilderness. The BIL was disappointed but oh well.
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Making a 365 into a 380 with bigger carb and intake with look of 365 still with 3450 tank. ;) 365 was rebuilt from split crankcase up already. Just figured if I was going to put the big carb and intake on the 49cc, what not put it on the 60cc. So all the switching begins.
Putting 365 tank on the craftsman bare bore 3000 with tank seam leak all the way around.
Having to change out a 3450 crankcase with bad bearing and seal. For crankcase I have already done waiting for a few years on shelf.
Tank had missing duckbill, brass etc creating a leak too.
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365 with the 3450 330 3750 380 tank. Plus their bigger carb 164 and bigger intake.
1. Remember with this set up to put the intake bolts in first ;) . Before you have it semi together ready to put carb in :P. or you will pull it back apart to do so. ::)
2. Make sure you put the metal piece in intake and gasket between the carb and intake before you have carb on and start to tighten down. ::) :P
3. Remove all the air filter set from the 330 3450 etc and use the 365 metal bracket on 3450 tank to run the 365 air filter and cover. ;)
She runs. Just not ready to fish today.
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Just put the 3/8 7T rim on and 20" to make some test cuts. Cuts just like the stock PP380 3750 with 365 lower looks 8). Which we already new that was going to be the outcome. :P
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Yesterday I seen 99 on outside temp and 100 in barn. Anyhow wanted to do some more test cuts to tune the 365 with the big carb, big intake and the 365 oem air filter set up.
After I get done cutting I like to let the saw idle for a while. Just to see I have everything right.
I think I ended up with the L to fat being after awhile the saw quit. Would not start afterwords. Not even with a prime. No pop nothing.
I checked coil etc. Turned out it had flooded itself idling and I let set over night without plug. Fired right up this morning.
To get the throttle response I like off of idle to WOT I had gotten close to 1.75 turns out. I hate any lag off idle to wot. So I will go back later and see if I can find a happy medium.
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Just tested and tuning again. Just dont like the bog off idle to wot at 1.5 turns out on low. Went back to 2 and then let idle. After awhile just idling it did it again. Shut off. Wont restart flooded.
Going to pull carb and check the fulcrum height etc. This carb has been setting unused for a few years now. I might have messed with it at one time back when. Who knows.
Also refresh my memory. What was the issues folks were having when a HDA164 had issues? I know it is here in thread somewhere. Just being lazy.
I also have that other used 164 from the other 3450 build. Plus I still have that NOS HDA137
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Think I found it. Answer to my above question.
what kind of problems are you guys seeing with the 164?
Saw will act like it has an intermittent air leak. Wandering tune. Poor idle quality. Won't respond consistently to changes in needle settings. Rebuild kit and long sessions in a USC didn't help my HDA-164. Replaced it with an NOS HDA-137. Ran fine then. Still have the HDA-164 somewhere....
Thread I found it in. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/hda-164-nla/
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What part goes bad in the 164? refresh please.
164 https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5C5uEAF
137 https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5C5WEAV
49 https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5C4DEAV
(https://walbro.force.com/parts/servlet/servlet.FileDownload?retURL=%2Fparts%2Fapex%2Fcomm_partsservicedetails%3FpartId%3Da0Fo000000V5C5uEAF&file=015o0000002K61J)
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I believe it was the high speed jet check valve would leak and then when it leaked it would get back into the low side idle circuit.
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I believe it was the high speed jet check valve would leak and then when it leaked it would get back into the low side idle circuit.
Thanks.
Seems to be what this 164 is doing. Tune wonders. Then floods out when left idling.
This carb if I remember right was one I pulled from that 3750 you have when I was chasing it's issues. At the time it had way more issues then the carb. So I didnt catch the carb was doing this.
That was what I was thinking, but couldnt remember if it was this 164 carb or not.
Might throw the 137 on and see. today
part 19 Nozzle Assembly - Check Valve 86-654 NLA
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Finding great info in that hda164 thread here.
Here are a couple of vids that I did showing the high speed nozzle service for a Walbro HDA carb. The check valve nozzle is friction fit into the cavity under the brass plug in the metering chamber. The nozzle itself being made of brass, and slightly oversized, seals to the aluminum. I doubt that many carbs have been serviced more than once, but if they have and you feel that the nozzle isnt fitting tight enough into its cavity, seal it will a little nail polish.
I think you will find that the majority of problems in the HDA series is because of leaking 'mechanical type' check valve nozzles. Symptoms are poor idle, impossible to hold tune and poor transition to rpm. The nozzle leaks barometric pressure back into the metering chamber through which the low circuit draws bubbles or maverick air causing the lean one minute, rich next condition.
Walbro makes the HDA with two types of nozzle seals - mechanical and capillary. The capillary type does not leak as easily as the mechanical type and is not shown. We will service the capillary type next. Be careful with your high pressure air line because becoming frustrated trying to clean the mechanical seal type, you can blow the seal cap right out of the nozzle and unless you see it go wont know its even gone...
i. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHaS_kxIrS0
ii. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5lcs8ceHag
iii. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6B0Cg3o15vk
iv. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghQMHs4NKb8
You may be wondering which type of check valve nozzle seal your carb has. You can take the carb apart and look or you can go over to Walbro's website and look it up there.
Here is a link to the HDA-164. Walbro; http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?partnum=HDA-164-1&Series=HDA
Follow down the IPL to line 19, 'Nozzle Assembly Check Valve'. If a part number is shown on this line, your carb has the mechanical seal type Walbro part 86-654.
In contrast lets look at another HDA carb, Walbro HDA-63.
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?partnum=HDA-63-1&Series=HDA
On this IPL, there is no part number shown on line 19, but on line 50 we do see a part number for the 'Screen Check Valve'. Then we can say that an HDA-63 uses the screen check valve instead of the mechanical check valve. There may be other ways to tell as well, this is just one of the ways I use,
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Installed the 137. That was it, idles all day now. Leaky check valve on the 164 I guess.
I did make note of all the used 164 and the nos 137 factory settings on L and H. 2 out on both even on a 164 that still had the carb stops installed. I pulled them to check.
I ended up around 2 on the L and about 2.25 on the H to set me fat in the 12's with the 137.
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Good to hear Kevin. It is to bad that the 164's cannot be repaired.
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They can be repaired if we can dig up some NOS mechanical check valve assemblies. My bum HDA164 will wait in a box until then.
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Running the HDA 137 bigger carb. Cutting the ash with 20" buried I felt she was fat but didnt want to adjust H till I could check. Did adjust L to get the idle right after hot. Ended up around 3 out on L. Then turn the Idle I up some. I like to set a saw down and stay idling.
Anyhow after getting home checked with tach and she was pig fat in the 10K's. She is now set in the low 13K's.
Also checked the psi after the new piston kit has been in there for about 4 tanks now, guessing......Pulled 150psi reusing the scored cylinder I cleaned up by hand best I could.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14731256_10210077822718620_5715327673523467119_n.jpg?oh=0975f18e9bca94a90292c23520628f5e&oe=58A77886)
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Looks like the 365 has seen its last cuts in this configuration. I offered to help a guy out that had his flywheel explode in half on his 3500. Offered him whole saws in 3500 or 365 or parts needed.
So I will be pulling 365 crankcase, recoil cover shell, inner air dam, flywheel, top cover for his new project build. Shame to do it to a running cutting saw but I have plenty of them.
Plus it will be transplanted into a saw to get back up and runner for another.
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Owner of the 3500 is very lucky to not have been injured IMHO. Here is the 3500 pics that the 365 will be rebuilding.
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Tear down done. I think I could almost do these series in my sleep or eyes closed.
:D :D :D :D :D I did make 1 newbie mistake. I forgot about the recoil spring not being encapsulate in plastic.
pics
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Wow that would have been exciting. He is indeed lucky to not be missing part of his left hand or other important bits.....
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Seems to me something happened to that fly wheel before running it or something foreign came loose while it was running. Split in half like that weird.
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Someone in another thread where we are talking about this. Brought this up. Wonder if he had used a impact to tighten the flywheel nut down with. Got too tight and fractured it.
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He said no impact was used by him.
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I have used an impact on flywheels plenty of times. Unless he got some 600 pound impact driver and drove the nut on like no tomorrow.
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Just trying to come up with something as to why. That is just crazy busting in half like that.
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Reason I say this. I have been racing with a gas saw before and be full throttle and catch the brake handle on a up cut and instant stoppage. Nothing broke.
Had to be something wrong or done to that flywheel in the past.
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I agree with you. I read the other thread also and had commented over there.
It could have been dropped or any number of things that lead to it splitting.
Who knows what some of these saws have had done to them in the past. When I bought my 3500 the clutch was welded together on it with no springs in it. Just the extra weight in the wrong place on that clutch would have caused some imbalance.
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When I bought my 3500 the clutch was welded together on it with no springs in it. Just the extra weight in the wrong place on that clutch would have caused some imbalance.
:o
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Could have been a casting flaw in the flywheel. It also could have been damaged by being whacked with a hammer or dropped onto a concrete floor sometime in the past.
There were a few old Echo models that experienced FW failures. One is the CS1001VL if I'm not mistaken. More than a few of them have grenaded the FW. I know a guy in Pa that has that model in his collection. The FW blew a while back. Thankfully, nobody was hurt.
Another Echo model with FW issues was the CS500VL. There were so many problems that Echo had a recall of the saws. If your 500VL fit within a certain SN range (mine is after it......dangit), they'd give you a new saw to replace it. In the wording of the recall, they blamed improper R/R of the FW during breaker points service (by homeowners, or improperly trained mechanics).........causing damage to the FW that could later result in a blown FW.
The 500VL's after that SN range have a stronger FW (and possibly a different crank/FW taper....cannot remember now). The 500EVL (electronic ign) saws are also not affected by the recall. Recall is dated 1986 or so.
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Another 60cc project PP365. Bonus was the 16" K041 3/8 replaceable sprocket nose bar and 3 new 33rsc chains.
Oh and partner bar cover.
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pics
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Figured I would see some scuffing when I seen the broken impulse line. Piston can be saved but will use a new one.
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The chain that came of 365 was Oregon 76 SL 3/8. If someone needs it for the chassis and drive links for making lighter race chain just trade me a 60dl chain or cost of replacement plus shipping to you.
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are parts still available for this line of bigger poulan's?
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are parts still available for this line of bigger poulan's?
I have everything they need. But alot is going NLA anymore.
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thats what i wanted to know... Thank you for your fast response....guess i should hold on to all the bad micros and s25da saws i bought over the years that have bad pistons etc...seems like parts on all the older saws are getting sparse....Makes me ill that people scrap the old saws....
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This 60cc came in on trade on some parts another guy needed for a 65cc.
Trying to decide if I should part it to help others or try to save it. Sort of lost interest in these since using the 3.3 335 54cc all the time.
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Was like I thought. Bearings has had moisture from setting over the years.
So this PP365 will get parted.
Clutch shows more wear then piston in my eyes. 🤷🏼♂️