Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: riverrocket on February 17, 2013, 05:46:13 pm
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I put a new Meteor P&C on an 036 pro and I’m trying to tune the carb, the problem is, I can turn the H screw all the way to the left (it has limiters on the H & L) and the saw doesn’t want to 4 stroke.
1) I tried another carb (same as the one that’s on it)
2) I pressure & vacuum tested, No Leaks
3) The saw starts and idles perfect
The only thing I haven’t done yet is hook the tach up to it, It just doesn’t seem to make a difference when I turn the H screw, it seems to run the same with the screw turned all the way to the right as it does with it turned all the way to the left. Is there a way to remove the limiter caps? I made a couple cuts with it turned all the way out and it has all kind of power, but I was afraid to take it to wide open throttle. It sounds and runs awesome, but i'm afraid i'm gonna red line it.
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Take the tabs from the limiters?
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Thanks, I kind of figured i would have to remove the limiters, I just went down and cut the tabs off. I just thought that there might be a way to remove them without clipping them off? I'll test today and put the tach on it if i can get it to four stroke.
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You can take needle nose pliers and pull the plastic limiters completely off and you are left with just the metal needle valves but it is darn near impossible to keep a little screw driver in the slot when the saw is running.
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I have found that with limiter caps that you have to remove them periodically. To be able to richen them up, as they will run to lean. Especially with saw that get a lot of hours put on them.
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I've bought new limiter caps to go on saws that have them completely removed but I took the tabs off before installing.
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I clipped the tabs off and took the saw down to the wood pile Yesterday afternoon, I started with the H turned out 2 turns, and it was 4 stroking, I set the h at about 1 3/4 turns out and it seems pretty close, it still four strokes a little in the cut but then cleans up and cuts smooth.I think it's still a little rich, but i think i'll leave it a little rich for now
I didn't get a chance to put the tach on it yet, It got dark on me. The saw has all kind of power, I'm really impressed with this meteor P&C.
while i was at it i tested two 026 that i opened the mufflers up on, man did that make a difference, they have the mufflers with just one hole in the front, I just drilled two more holes the same size, one above the existing hole and one below. Thanks for your help, I'll never have another saw with limiter caps, I wonder how many saws burn up running to lean because of the limiters? especially after modifying a saw. people think there safe because they have the limiters.
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I wonder how many saws burn up running to lean because of the limiters? especially after modifying a saw. people think there safe because they have the limiters/
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Well the classic example is a gent from Cincinnati a few years back who followed another persons advice partly and hogged out the muffler on a then new 088 Stihl and failed to adjust the carb .
He was proud as punch of how the big saw could just scream like a hopped up 70 cc and had the power of a 120 plus .I cautioned him he needed to give it more fuel which he ignored .A month or so later on flea bay ,for sale 088 Stihl ,cooked top end ,Cincinnati Ohio area .Now I think at that time an 088 was about 1200 bucks ,still a lot of long green down the tubes .
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I agree with you there. A tach is a saw saver. I have noticed too that limiters from the factory will not let you go any richer. So as soon as you do any mod you have to pull the caps.
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I don't know if this is true on Stihl saws or not, but on some saws if you completely remove the limiter caps, the mixture will change as the needle valve drifts with the vibration. (found this out the hard way on my Jonsered 2152, so I reinstalled and just trimmed the tabs)
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yea, I think your right, they will vibrate and change, i Left the limiters on, Just clipped the tabs off.
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You are correct the cap acts as the springs like on older saws with no limiters like a wj-67 or a wt-215. With no cap they will move around on you. I would guess you could modify a carb grommet to fit over the screws to help hold them in place. Have not tried it.