Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: Remington on March 05, 2013, 06:57:40 pm
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No its not made of wood.
If you need a tool to adjust that wild thing and don't want to buy one for $20 and wait 2 weeks, you can make one from a clear bic pen or some other type of hard pen.
-Remove the top cover from the poulan to have clear access to the carb.
-Take a clear type bic pen and remove the ink and caps
-Melt the smaller end and roll it on a table to shrink the hole a bit smaller
-Melt it again and when soft squeeze it over the spline screw and let it harden and form a tool. It might take three or four melts to make it perfect but it worked for me.
-Be very steady when holding the melt. it hardens quickly and the slightest movement will make it too loose. you want a nice tight fit so let it harden for 30 seconds at least before pulling it off.
- Adjusting is still a bit tricky, the pen barely fits so you have to put it in the cover and put the cover on at the same time with the pen sticking out.
H and L needed two different sizes of pens for me. It worked great and because its plastic it will not damage the splines like pliers would.
Credit goes to the nintendo game cube tool . this pic is for a nintendo screw but the idea is similar
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Very cool idea.
Only thing I havent seen a hard plastic pen like that in years. They must still sale them if you gottem eh.
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Pretty slick. 8)
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They're hard to find, check in between the folds of your sofa.
I actually used a blue paper mate pen for the "H" as I believe that screw was a bit smaller but I found that clear works better, its harder and dries stiff.
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Good job
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Good idea. I've used a red or blue electrical crimp style connector to get needles out , and then slot it for screw driver. It usually only works a couple times before the connector plastic gets boogered up and too loose. Chris
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Get ahold of some 1/8" (I believe) copper or plastic tubing...press on, and you have yourself a tool! I have access to all kinds of plastic tube, so it's easy for me, plus when/if it strips, you can just cut it off and repeat. Good luck.
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That's the real deal of mechanic work making your one tools love that.
Thanks for shearing (http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o578/dutchsawdoctor1/oknew.gif)
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Another redneck idea after a few brews today ;). Only works if the black carb grommet is removed so it can reach the spined needles.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/redneckfixes004_zpscfbc75bb.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/redneckfixes004_zpscfbc75bb.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/redneckfixes003_zpsbc084751.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/redneckfixes003_zpsbc084751.jpg.html)
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I found adjusting difficult but not impossible using the wire connectors. You are never sure just how much you moved the needle?
Most likely, if you don't have the true screwdriver, your best path is to do like has already been said . . . Remove the screw completely and slot it!
Finding the real screwdrivers is a real problem. They used to be $2.99 + shipping, now some sharks on Amazon are trying to get $50 for them including shipping and they don't even have a good transaction rating.
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I bought the tool six months ago for $14 from Damlow prices on Amazon... now $40 before shipping for the same item. Wow. Supply/demand at work I suppose but who woulda thought!
Ken
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If any one is interested Ordertree has splined tool, 530035560 listed for $7.28. I'm not sure what shipping is. Chris
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530035560
Purchase of item disallowed
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Since you mentioned it I have one that needs some attention on a Poulan I rebuilt the carb on today .I usually use hard plastic tubing but I can't remember where I put the stuff .Oh well we have miles of it at work .
This one just isn't up to snuff .I assume the original factory tuning .I had one just like it I worked on last year and it did pretty good for it's size .
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I did in fact bring home some hard plastic tubing and tweeked that Poulan 222 .Much better .
It's basically the same stuff they use on air shocks,small water lines like to an ice maker etc .You could probabley buy it a Lowes for a quarter a foot or less.Works good .
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I heard that the EPA contacted Ebay about these drivers stating that the sellers were facilitating breaking the emissions law?? In addition, the EPA also complained about the cheater emulators that folks were using to beat a second cat on a hot rod car. I see those are gone now too?
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I heard that the EPA contacted Ebay about these drivers stating that the sellers were facilitating breaking the emissions law?? In addition, the EPA also complained about the cheater emulators that folks were using to beat a second cat on a hot rod car. I see those are gone now too?
Must be some more of the government getting carried away and bigger as in the Justice Department and the Infurnal Revenue Department?
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sharkey is correct. EPA also contacted the manufacturers and told them that if they didn't stop the wide-spread sale of low cost adjustment tools, that they would pull their emission certifications and force them to put limiter caps on needles or use some other method to prevent needle adjustment. The intent of the adjustment tools was that they were only to be sold to dealers and not users.
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When there is a need to find a way to get the job done . . . . The people will find a way - and if demand is great enough - eventually, a "Black Market" will be set up for the unavailable tools.
One thing is for sure and that is the engines will not run for long without needle adjustment.
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Last week I set my 365 Special up for 12,900 and the outside air temperature was in the 90's
Today I went to use the chainsaw when the outside air temperature was in the low 70's and it was too lean. I suppose I had set it too critical to begin with?
I consider that model to best be set at 12,500 if you might be doing some buried cuts?
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I remember a 93 Harley I bought new had sealed adjustments. Took it in to the dealer because it just was not right IMO and he drilled the sealed area out and hooked me up with adjustment back then. ;)
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remember the quadrajets? ;D
my old auto teacher would damn near blow the roof off the class if you mentioned removing the plugs over them air jets. always told us there is something else wrong ::)
"geeze, adjusted them on my '85 chevy caprice and it never ran better. no stumble, got rid of the slight roughness etc". he didn't want to hear it. of course, after all these years me and my friends still all laugh at mr. zielstrah and his funny notions. i just can't believe he's still a teacher there.
edit: this is the same teacher that started a snowmobile that came in on a trailer to have the stuck throttle fixed. he gives the starter a pull and away the skidoo goes. right into my friend al's chevy monza spider's drivers side door. >:( then, blames al for it. yup. blamed al for the other persons snowmobile, blamed al for him (the teacher) hitting the door with a known machine with a stuck open throttle....
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I take my handy-dandy Dremel tool and cut a slot in the top of the screw and use a regular screwdriver to do what needs to be done.
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That's also a way to do it ;D
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IF the carb is off thats the way I done it in the past, cut slot.
Buttttttt if carb is on a customers running saw and you are just tuning it. I dont think you want the wasted time of doing such, pulling carb off etc.
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Nice ideas here folks. Thanks for sharing. I have my first Poulan 3314 and need to tinker. Just can't see buying that expensive tool. I'm looking into the tube idea. Not a Lowes around my neck of the woods but H. Depot is nearby.
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On my 5020 all i do for L&H adjustments is get the engine warm,kill it,pull the recoil assemble and cooling shroud,then replace just the recoil and lightly hold it while pulling ,then clamp a small pair of needle nose vise grips on the adjuster and fine tune it redneck style ;)
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I have found a couple of options to adjust my Zama W-26 3314 carb.
I bought two types of hoses to experiment. They both fit pretty snug on these carb screw splines.
The first I got was a 1/4" black air line hose from a well known auto parts store. Pretty stiff and tuff hose. It seems to grab the splines pretty good. Can be bought by the foot. Cost me .50 cents.
The second is a semi-clear hose from H. Depot that is normally used for refrigerator water lines. You can see the spline marks on the inside once removed from the screw. Had this around the shop so I took a foot of it to experiment. Not sure if you can buy small pieces of this. We bought it by the 10' roll. Don't recall the price but not too much.
Both of these hoses seem to have to same inside diameter. They both fit snugly through the adjusting tool holes in the side cover but will turn easily.
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If you can get the screws out, just slot them with a Dremel cut-off disk. Saves a lot of frustration if you don't have the real tool.
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Cutting the slots with a dremel is definitely my backup plan.
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Last week I set my 365 Special up for 12,900 and the outside air temperature was in the 90's
Today I went to use the chainsaw when the outside air temperature was in the low 70's and it was too lean. I suppose I had set it too critical to begin with?
I consider that model to best be set at 12,500 if you might be doing some buried cuts?
I agree with you. I was setting the carb up on my 3750 which is very similar and found it ran best between 12,500 and 13,000 especially when it was buried in wood.
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Seems every time I go to use one of my many chainsaws, the temperature has drastically changed since I last used it and the mixture is wrong.
Thats what's nice about my 545 and 550. Soon after you start them the mixture has corrected itself and away you go.
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Seems every time I go to use one of my many chainsaws, the temperature has drastically changed since I last used it and the mixture is wrong.
Thats what's nice about my 545 and 550. Soon after you start them the mixture has corrected itself and away you go.
I have learned to carry an adjusting tool when ever I go out with a saw, because you are right things change and the tuning changes.
It does not take long to make the adjustment and then I am good for the rest of the time cutting.
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530035560
Purchase of item disallowed
Canadian Tire sells them for about $10.00 up here in Kanuckistan. But you have to ask for them at my local store as they keep them in a drawer out of view.
Lee
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I bought a pacman tool from HLS this past Monday.
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I bought a pacman tool from HLS this past Monday.
Cool to know. I have single D and we both have splined. Seems like the other makers keep coming up with other crap though.
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Neighbor beside me bought a like new style Homelite whacker at a yard sale and it is lean on the HS. Has Pacman needles.
I guess the best thing to do though is to remove and slot the needles?
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I was lucky and bought an entire set about 3 years that had all the different types. Now that I am working part time on saws I have had to use a few of them that I thought I would never use.
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I finally met my match the other day! I was trying to resurrect my late Dad's 2150 the other day, and found that I needed to adjust the needles a little bit...I pulled out my trusty 1/8" plastic tubing, and it was good enough to push onto the splines, but was too big to actually adjust the screw. After a time, I found some copper tubing of the same size, and with a little ingenuity I was able to make my "new" tool work just as good, or better than the one that you can buy in the store. Long story longer, if you take a little time, and use your head, you can make just about anything that is laying around your shop do the job that you need it to.
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I finally met my match the other day! I was trying to resurrect my late Dad's 2150 the other day, and found that I needed to adjust the needles a little bit...I pulled out my trusty 1/8" plastic tubing, and it was good enough to push onto the splines, but was too big to actually adjust the screw. After a time, I found some copper tubing of the same size, and with a little ingenuity I was able to make my "new" tool work just as good, or better than the one that you can buy in the store. Long story longer, if you take a little time, and use your head, you can make just about anything that is laying around your shop do the job that you need it to.
Necessity is the mother of invention.
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I used the #12 butt crimp connectors on the splined needles but it wasn't consistent enough for accurate adjustment. I decided that the crimp connectors could best be used to just remove the needles so you could slot them?
Then I came across the splined and Pac Man screw drivers at a decent price. I didn't worry about it any more.
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I took some plastic tubing that would fit tight over the spline head screws, then cut down a pair of small machine screws to about 3/8" long, boogered up the threads on them to keep them from turning, pressed them into the tubing and pressed the tubes onto the mixture screws in the carb.They come out about even with the plastic guard over the screws.This way they can stay there forever, and can be turned with a straight screwdriver, plus they are easy to see thru the holes in the top cover.Works great! ( P3816 saw).
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Not a bad idea.
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Thanks, Couldn't afford the golden screwdriver, had to do something! I think all newer saws can't run right out of the box, they're strangled by gov't. regulations. I really doubt that chainsaw emissions is a big problem anyway...