Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: UNCLEBEEF on March 09, 2013, 04:12:50 pm
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Hello All, new to the forum, ive been reading posts and enjoying all the info here. i own two husky 455 ranchers, one stihl 028 and just picked up a husky 372xp today. i fired the saw to make sure it ran before purchasing but i would like to find a service manual to help me with inspecting and servicing before i run it hard in the woods. any help will be much appreciated. thank you. Dave.
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Old school one or the new x-torq one? Most of the old 372 SM will work though.
If you can tell, is de-comp on right side or top of cylinder?
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Look in your Email. I sent you the one for the none XT version prior to 2010
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hello, thanks for the response! dcomp is on the right side, i found a compression gauge and checked it.... 120 after about 6 or 7 pulls. is this weak or ??? does anyone have a normal range or spec for a used saw? is it time for a rebuild of the top end? any help is appreciated. thank you.
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I sent you the manual for the 372 with the decompression on the right side.
120 is a little weak but it should run OK. Closer to 150 is norm. Some were 140 new.
It is time to pull the muffler and look at the piston to see if it is scored. If not, perhaps all y0ou need is some rings?
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thanks for the manual Magnum, i pulled the muffler and looked at the piston, absolutely perfect, no scratches or scoring. i thought 120 was low and i was expecting to see some damage so...... run it or put some rings in it?
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I have pics of worn 372 rings that pulled 120psi and then a new set of caber rings to compare to.
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Here you go.
Just to show the newer guys the difference. You can see the wear and feel the psi difference pulling over.
372 50mm rings pulled from a running saw just getting low on compression 120psi, still ran and started good. Checked cold
Then new Caber 50mm rings with about 30 seconds of run in , idling and blips. Checked warm 140psi
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2171372BB372/rings002.jpg)
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thanks for the pics, so.. i'm leaning towards reringing. do i need to do any prep to the cylinder or piston besides normal cleaning? should i run a hone and cross hatch or do they do that with saws?
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IMO do not use hone or hone it. I just take a green scotch brite pad like plastic material or something, whatever they are.
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is that because you dont want to remove any material or another reason?
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You can go right through nikasil coating real quick if not very very very careful.
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o.k. i've been busy today before pulling the cylinder i pressure tested the crankcase. held 11.50 psi with no leaks. i pulled the cylinder and took some photos of the piston and cylinder, what do you think? i can see cross hatching in the cylinder bore. the cylinder and piston are mahle brand. to me it looks newer but i'm not a saw expert. do you think i can just put in rings and go or?
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some piston pics
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some cylinder pics
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Looks like it could use a new Meteor piston and rings to do it right.
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do you think the cylinder is in good shape? is there any concern putting a meteor piston in a mahle cylinder? do they need to be be matchng brand?
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The cylinder looks really good
Meteor makes a piston and Caber ring especially for that cylinder. $35-$40 shipped from Israel or Greece
The old piston has some wear, you could put rings on it and go but there is a lot of skirt wear on it.
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thanks for the help, i'll order parts tomorrow.
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50mm ? Meteor 372 piston kit $38.95 right here is US already Northwood Saw http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=37
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The Meteor kits from Greece or Israel take a month to arrive.
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Were do you order them from?
Distributer/producer or E-bay seller?
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I was referring to the two guys on Ebay.
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Hello, thought I would give an update on the saw. I received all the parts and installed them. started with a new 50mm meteor piston with a single caber ring. I made a scotchbrite flap wheel hone using a piece of pvc as a mandrel and ran a little oil in it while cleaning the cylinder, this really worked good to clean up the cylinder .i hand sanded the cylinder with a 600 grit wet/dry and oil, the nikisil is so hard I don't think this did anything. installed a new base gasket, rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter. now i'm adding another port in the muffler and then it's run time! I've seen different methods of attaching the new shroud on the muffler. I used a thread setter to install to 5mm inserts in the muffler, hopefully this will allow easy removal for cleaning the screen later on. I do have a question on initial break in. do I need to baby it or put it in wood and tune? what method has worked best for you? any help or opinion is appreciated.
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I just tune them a little on the rich side. I don't do any buried cuts for a while.
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alright will do. here's a couple pics of the muffler mod.
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You did a good job on that muffler.
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say what... ears are still ringing! thanks. went out and ran it for about 45 min while I adjusted the carb and made a few cuts. I noticed that it comes up in rpm fast and has a good torque band. so far so good, i'll run it more when the darn wind quits whipping....with ear protection!
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Nice.
(I used a thread setter to install to 5mm inserts in the muffler)
Can you show how those are done and what they look like before and how do they stay in?
I have read about a thread rivet insert, but never tried those. http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts.html
I just started riveting permanently them because I dont use screens and the self thread screws always seem to back out on me.
Just looking at others ways too.
Thanks,
Kevin
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hey Kevin, i don't currently have any pics of the tool.I used a tool from work but if you search Marson thread setter....that's what I used. you simply drill the correct size hole and it installs just like a rivet, the inside folds over and holds similar to a standard rivet. I used a 5mm thread insert and drilled a 9/32 hole. I also put anti-seize on the bolts prior to installing, that way taking apart later will be a breeze.
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I wonder if this would work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html
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I wonder if this would work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html
If I make it over to HF before muffler modding 353 with side deflector I will look at those to see. Thanks for posting.
I'd like to see if OP has feedback on his to see if the bolts back out of the threaded part after some run time on it.
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that tool is very similar to what I used. I've ran two tanks of fuel so far, bolts are still tight.