Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Cut4fun on March 23, 2011, 07:30:35 pm
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All new territory for me again. Took a husky 268 in trade and it already has a 272 aftermarket top end on it.
How do the 268 and 272 compare to each other?
How does the 272 compare to a 372?
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the 372 has more torque than a 272
it has 1mm longer stroke and 4 transfers
but the 272 has a very good reputation of reliability,they are really tough. it got its power in a higher rpm range
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So was the only difference in the 268 compared to 272 was 50mm v/s 52mm or was 268 open and closed port and 272 closed port only?
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I love the 61 thru 272 family, as well as the Jonny 625/630/670 versions. But the 372/2171 chassis that replaced it was a significant improvement. More power, much better anti-vibe, better cylinder design.
You are correct in that the 268XP and 272XP really only differ in the extra 2mm bore of the 272. Like most examples where two similar models differ by only a few CC's, performance is very close with differences noticed as the wood gets bigger. They are both of what would be called the second generation on this chassis, where as a 266XP is from the early generation. Early being defined as twin coil ignition and lower profile muffler and top cover.
There were two versions of the 268: the closed port XP and the later open port which was not an XP. The open port 268 arrived at about the same time the 272XP replaced the 268XP. For at least part of the time it was on the market, the open port 268 was given the "special" moniker. That open port cylinder was shared with the 268K cutoff saw as well as your gray top 66. The only other cylinder that was shared by two models was the 62CC jug used on both the 162SE and the Jonsered 630 Super. Easy saws to work on, but interchangability between different models can be tricky until you get familiar with them.
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I thought the "Special" was the XP, made for a while after the 272XP really replaced the 268XP, and?
I have also seen a couple of exemples that the were a 268SE for a very short time before it was redesignated XP.
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I thought the "Special" was the XP, made for a while after the 272XP really replaced the 268XP, and?
I have also seen a couple of exemples that the were a 268SE for a very short time before it was redesignated XP.
268SE doesn't sound right to me, are you maybe thinking about the 266? "SE" was replaced by "XP" during the 266 model run and should have been history by the time the 268 arrived.
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I have seen 268xp with a gold sticker that says SPECIAL and something about 300th anniversary. Dont know if it means anything.
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I thought the "Special" was the XP, made for a while after the 272XP really replaced the 268XP, and?
I have also seen a couple of exemples that the were a 268SE for a very short time before it was redesignated XP.
268SE doesn't sound right to me, are you maybe thinking about the 266? "SE" was replaced by "XP" during the 266 model run and should have been history by the time the 268 arrived.
The 268 never really replaced the 266 in general, but may have done so in the US. In Europe it was still sold several years after the 268XP had been discontinued. The newest 266XP manual I have seen was dated 1997. ;)
I also had a hard time believing there ever was a 268SE, but I finally became satisfied by the evidense that some actually were made.
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I also had a hard time believing there ever was a 268SE, but I finally became satisfied by the evidense that some actually were made.
Just picked up the 268 and looked at it while looking for some parts.
Black tag has 268 SE. Recoil has 268xp.
I will get pics later.
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Wow, I've got to run downstairs and check all of my 266's and 268's!!!!
This is getting interesting, isn't it. ???
Here's what I found. I have two 268XP's, one a 1988 and one a 1990. The ID tags have neither SE or XP written on them; they just say 268. The decals both say XP.
I have three 266's One from 1985 has SE on both the ID tag, (silver), and the starter decal. The other two are both from 1987 and have SE on the ID tag but XP on the starter decal. Those latter two saws, despite the SE on the ID tag, would be considered 266XP's by everyone, including Husky. That's the way it would have been listed in the catelog, on the box, the owner's manual and the receipt when you bought it.
One other thing I'll check tomorrow are a few IPLs and owners manuals. If as I suspect, the cover pages and such refer to these saws as XP's, then that's how they should be defined. At least here in the US, I think that the transition from SE to XP was pretty much like I said earlier. Other markets may be different, as it's really nothing more than a marketing term to begin with.
However............. let me add more mystery here regarding 254's. I have a 254SE and a later 254XP, and there are a few differences. There is a slight difference in the flywheel side of the case as the later saw was altered to accomodate Air Injection. Different muffler deflector and corresponding contour at the front of the case, different flywheel shroud, and the ability to accept the air injection snorkle are the changes I've noticed....so far.
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The chain brake and clutch side case also had a # of changes in the 154-254 xp evolution.
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I also had a hard time believing there ever was a 268SE, but I finally became satisfied by the evidense that some actually were made.
Just picked up the 268 and looked at it while looking for some parts.
Black tag has 268 SE. Recoil has 268xp.
I will get pics later.
Gypo used to have one that was serial 7350XXX - the serial number on yours would be interesting to know! ;)
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......
One other thing I'll check tomorrow are a few IPLs and owners manuals. If as I suspect, the cover pages and such refer to these saws as XP's, then that's how they should be defined. At least here in the US, I think that the transition from SE to XP was pretty much like I said earlier. Other markets may be different, as it's really nothing more than a marketing term to begin with.
......
I have looked at all the IPLs I can find earlier, and there are no trace of a 268SE there.
As I see it, you very well could be right. The second halv of 1987 "sounds" like a bit late for a SE model.
In all I have "collected" info of 3 saws with 268SE on that tag, and two of them could easily be the same saw (Ken Dunn and Gypo).
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ST breakdown the 268 tag when I get the pic ok. I dont know how on the older tags.
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I'm betting that Cut4's 268 is a 1987 model. They may have continued putting SE on the ID tag for part of the year, as they had been doing with the 266.
Easy to read those tags. The first number, in that case would be a 7, indicating 1987. The second two numbers indicate the week of that year that the saw was produced.
I went an looked at a bunch of IPL's and such, and I'm satisfied that there never was a model 268SE. All of the top cover and starter decals from the earliest 268 IPL are "XP", up until the open port 268 came out.
The 266 of course does show both SE and XP model decals, with the change taking place from 1986 to 1987.
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I'm betting that Cut4's 268 is a 1987 model. They may have continued putting SE on the ID tag for part of the year, as they had been doing with the 266.
Easy to read those tags. The first number, in that case would be a 7, indicating 1987. The second two numbers indicate the week of that year that the saw was produced.
I went an looked at a bunch of IPL's and such, and I'm satisfied that there never was a model 268SE. All of the top cover and starter decals from the earliest 268 IPL are "XP", up until the open port 268 came out.
The 266 of course does show both SE and XP model decals, with the change taking place from 1986 to 1987.
I know all that, and that is why I originally was so sceptical to the existence of a 268SE. From what I have experienced about IPLs, I tend to trust the tags on the saws more - but I could easily be wrong...... ;D
Why did they make tags that read 268SE at all, if that model never existed? ???
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http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp002.jpg[/img]
/i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp003.jpg[/ihttp://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp004.jpg[/im]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp006.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp005.jpg[/img]
Saving info Aaron posted on husqvarna 266 268 272 full wrap handles = There are two full wrap handlebars for this series.
The early version (probably just used on the 266SE/SG and early 266XP) has the bottom bracket ends meet at one central point under the saw (like a 181-288 full wraps).
The later 268XP/272XP full wrap has the two bracket ends offset fore/aft of each other and requires an orange plastic spacer bracket. Two screws (same as the half wrap screws, but longer and with a different part #) pass through the handlebar and plastic spacer into the fuel tank botton (where the 1/2 wrap screws would attach). Two machine screws pass through the handlebar and plastic bracket and into two nuts contained in said bracket.
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My guess was right, that's a 1987. Made in week 47, which would be mid November.
As to why they were still putting SE on those tags after SE had been superceded by XP, there probably isn't really an answer that would explain it. Maybe nobody reset the machine that made the tags. LOL
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I suspect Spike is right - 7 47 is even later than Gypos saw, and well into the XP area!
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So what years was the 268 made?
Going by this husky info it was into 97. So could this 268SE XP be a 1997 and not a 87? That might explain the 272 style top cover on a 268 xp. Top cover has 268 husqvarna XP.
268 (1987-05)
268 (1987-11)
268 (1989-02)
268 (1990-05)
268 (1991-02)
268 Special (1991-02)
268 (1993-09)
268 (1997-01)
272 (1993-01)
272 XP (1997-01
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Don't know about all 1997 year Huskys but my 246 and 254 state 1997 on their tags.
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All 1997 Huskys should have "1997" on the tag, in addition to the serial number.
Another thing is that all new 268s had been the open port "plain" 268 for years by 1997.
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So Niko your saying the tags were like the ones used today even on a 1997 268?
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So Niko your saying the tags were like the ones used today even on a 1997 268?
Same color, same number system (except for the "1997" on the 1997 ones) - and the 1997 tags did of course not say SE on them.
The saws also looked quite different, even if they were the same basic model.
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Went and made some rip cuts with the 24" bar buried for testing fun ;D.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/2100268372365362002-1.jpg)
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What are the different filter options on this saw? This one has a black plastic box with filter inside.
Is there a filter that can be put on like a HD filter on a 372.
I seen one that looks bigger square and shorter height on a weimdog saw. .
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So Niko your saying the tags were like the ones used today even on a 1997 268?
Same color, same number system (except for the "1997" on the 1997 ones) - and the 1997 tags did of course not say SE on them.
The saws also looked quite different, even if they were the same basic model.
Sorry, I managed to misread your question. Somehow I thought you asked about 1997 vs. 1987.....
Here is what I believe is true;
- The tags were "silver" before 1987.
- From 1987 the tags were black, and from 1987 to 1996 the system was the same, yww+4.
- Still the same from 1997 to some time in 1999, but with the full year in addition.
- From "some time" in 1999 it has been yy ww+5, and still is.
This apply to saws made in Sweden - there are other variants, like the Yugo/Slovenia saws - and even some oddities....
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What are the different filter options on this saw? This one has a black plastic box with filter inside.
Is there a filter that can be put on like a HD filter on a 372.
I seen one that looks bigger square and shorter height on a weimdog saw. .
Figured it out today. Here is the numbers to make the HD filter set up on the 268 and maybe 272, I'm not sure on.
503535401 HD AIR FILTER
503551101 AIR FILTER HEAVY DUTY
503560003 CLAMP
503535501 FILTER HOLDER
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Kevin I bought that never used 1993 272XP. I went over to the owners place the other day and asked him what he wanted for it, he said seeing I gave him such a good deal on removing his trees a year ago all he wanted for the saw was $300.
The saw came with a 16" Jonsered badged bar and original 73 LP chain. I ordered a 16" Husqvarna powermatch bar from my dealer, so I will post pics of the saw when the bar comes in. Also put a new aluminum bumper on the saw to replace the heavy dual steel dogs the 272 came with.
I can see why Husqvarna still makes the 272XP in Brazil and detuned it to sell alongside the 372XP which they also make there. Loggers want the compact 272 and good handling, better centered b/c outboard clutch[like the 346 has] with a full 72cc displacement.
I compared measurements to my 2008 372XP and the 272 is 1 1/2" shorter, almost a inch narrower and a 1/2" lower.
No rev limit ignition and no carb screw restrictor caps. I noticed right away a little more vibration in the handles reving it to WOT comparted to the 372, but I can live with that.
I just haven't cut a stick of wood with it yet, may never use it but I have a very strong urge to put it to work.
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Do the racing guys up here really like the 272 for alky saws, with a 1 ring piston.Stroked crank or not..
As for logging in this area, they never caught on, they had a reputation of bottom end failures and so the 044/440 reigned champ.
The 371/2 changed that however.
My best buddy has a 30 tank used 272 sitting on his bench I've been trying to nab, unsuccessfully, but I'm pretty sure its a Inboard clutch not outboard.
Vintage about 1994?, I bought a 038 magnum and he bought the 272, and cutting side by side converted me to a husky type fella.
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Thats a tough one. Shelf it or run it. Hmmmmmmm 8) I would have to run it, but making sure not to put it in a situation to tear it up though.
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Thats a tough one. Shelf it or run it. Hmmmmmmm 8) I would have to run it, but making sure not to put it in a situation to tear it up though.
I'm thinking the same. After running Stihls for 28 yrs, Jonsereds 7 yrs before that and now running Huskies exclusivily for the last 3-4 yrs. I can now have the chance to see what I missed out on in the late 1980s and 1990s with this 272XP. The 044 was my prime saw at that time. ;D
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I have a mint 272XP, maybe 10 tanks through it? I also have a NOS Jonsered 670 Champ with the tags still hanging on it. That baby's never seen fuel, and it never will.
It's easy for me to not run either of them because I have other examples of both models that I do run. So, there's no "I wonder what she'll do" curiosity that needs to be satisfied. I think that's usually the case for shelf queens like that.
Some guys no doubt think that it's a waste to have a saw that never gets used, and I understand that thinking. But part of the collector aspect of the hobby is finding mint saws and keeping them that way. And if you also have plenty of work saws, there's no harm in having a couple of virgins around. :)
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I know what you mean I have a MINT 1989 61 (shelf queen). It was almost a virgin the dealer made a couple of test cuts with it. Then robbed parts muff, carb, idle screw and spring for customers. I had a mint 268xp w/28" Husky branded bar. Bought on Ebay $225 inc ship about 4:30 am guy had just listed it BIN. Saw looked like it had maybe 1-2 tanks thru it. Wifes cousin stole it and a LOT LOT more while I was down with back problems. Got many more saws to use. It's like which one needs running today a DolMak, a Partner, an Efco or a Husky.
Shep
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I have a couple more that fall into the mint category. A six tank 257, a 50Special, a Jonny 70E, and a 630 Super. Maybe a couple more I can't think of at the moment.
There are also a few saws that have seen some moderate use, but were well cared for by their previous owners and are cosmetically excellent. Plus a few saws that look mint, but were toasted and the owners chose not to rebuild them. One of my 262's falls into this group, along with a Jonsered 2145 that I converted to a 2153.
Since these saws have already had their cherry's popped, they do see some trigger time. But they get a more thorough cleaning before being put away. 8)
But it's my not too pretty project saws that I've brought back from the dead that do most of my work. Not so much because they're rough looking, but because I get a kick out of running saws that I built from various junkers. Often with no more investment than an aftermarket piston and a spark plug. Plus, project saws all need to have a couple of tanks run through them in order to get them sorted out to be sure they are OK.
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I'm still waiting for the 16" Huskie powermatch bar to come in so I can post pics of my 272XP[ I swear they still haul freight by dog sled up here >:(]
I have a strong feeling I will put this never used 272XP to work. I will run it with the 16" b/c, 8 pin 3/8 rim sprocket and save about a 1/2 lb by using the aluminum smooth bumper by eliminating the 2 heavy steel dogs [which aren't meant to be used for a heavy duty 16" pulpcutting saw anyways.] The modern 73 LGX sawchain with anti-vibe should help with the 272's rubber mounts over the old style chain it came with.
With this setup the 272 will be my main small timber cleanup and limbing saw. I'll probably just have my 346 for backup. My bulkier 372 with 22" will be my next worksaw in the lineup with the 395- 32" rounding out at the top. My 338XPT and Stihl MS200 are my climbing saws.
Now should I go out and buy a brand new 390XP- 28" to complete my lineup? :D
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I was going to say I have a couple 16", but wrong gage for you up there 050 to your 058 and my 362 372 likes them.
Powermatch and a GB Pro top.
Now if one of you guys with a used 346 or 372 want to trade me out of my 268xp SE with new afm 272 top end we can talk. It just sets there on the shelf as a back up. Saw pics are in beginning of this thread.
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Good lord look at the size of that stick :o :o a 272 is cutting in to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XSSZ62DyLE&feature=player_embedded
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Here's the 1993 272XP with the long waited for 16" bar. I paid my dealer $72 for that bar so for sure I'm putting this saw to work to get that money back :o
Replacing the dual dogs with the lightweight aluminum smooth bumper will save about a 1/2 lb plus there is a weight in the chainbrake lever that will save a few ounces when removed too. This should bring the saw below my 372's weight. The dogs are useless for limbing and cleanup work what I intend to use this saw for.
Like I said the 272 is 1 1/2" shorter, almost 1" narrower and about a inch lower then the 372. With the outboard clutch like the 346 the 272 should be an excellent good handling hyper limbing and blocking saw.
The stiffer rubber av mounts will offer better precision cutting then the spongy floppy 372.
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8) That sounds cool Willard, like something I might have wanted to do myself ;D - and I surely agree with getting rid of the large dawgs for that use!
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I;m going to have to try a 16" on my 268/272. For some reason 272 feels heavier then my 372's PHO though.
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I think the 372 is supposed to be slightly lighter than the 272, but they are very close. The difference in "feel" is probably more than the difference in weight. I'd say that it's more to do with the inboard/outboard clutch than the mounts.
I have a 16" on one of my 266's, and it makes the saw seem smaller some how. A nice handy package. I've had that same bar on a 371, and for whatever reason, the earlier 266/272 chassis seems to wear the shorter bar better. The 371/372 feels better with an 18", which is my favorite set up of all these saws.
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I he never used a 272, 268 etc. - but I can well imagine that the more compact powerhead with an outboard clutch feels more at home with a short bar, than the 372xp does.
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The 272 would be better with the longer bar also because of it's "closer to the center" b/c for better balance. As I see it you lose balance in a saw when you want the convenience of a inboard clutch for sprocket rim removal.
I put the tape measure to the 272 and 372 tonight and found this:
The guide bar on the 272 is 2" from the center of the crankcase [gasket]. On the 372 it's 2 3/4".
3/4" difference might not sound like much but it's really noticeable when holding both saws.
Now someone thinking the inboard clutch 372 would cut lower to the ground is wrong. The 272 is lower by a 1/4".
The center of the bar on the 272 is 1" to the edge of the sprocket cover, the 372 is 3/4". Now what makes the 272 lower to the ground is its top handle is flush square to the sprocket cover. The 372's top handle sticks out a 1/2" past the sprocket cover [reason is to compensate for the wider b/c position].
The 272Xp like the 630 Jonsered as I remember will have really nice balance. I just haven't cut a stick of wood with the 272XP yet to make a report on it.
At the moment with my busy schedule I'm waiting for a sunny day and some spare time to take lots of good quality [once in a life time] photos of the mint 272 before it gets all scratched up and dirty.
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Well the other day I put the 272Xp to work for the first time. I took lots of pictures but to post them on here I would have to downsize them even more.
Very firm handling, well balanced saw. After a few tanks I resetted the rich factory carb settings and for only running 2 tanks she motors!
Setting the carb brings back fond memories of my old Jonsered 630, with the 272 idling on its side resting against my leg, left hand holding the rewind side of the top handle and right hand turning the screwdriver. Try and do that with the 372..... impossible, with the 372 you got to shut it off ,pull the top cover and filter so you can see where to find the carb screws.
I have a question for Spike 60 or Niko. I remember my Jonsered 630 had 2 different sets of rubber AV mounts available , one set was soft the other set were firm. I believe seeing my 272XP came with dual felling dogs for use of long bars, it probably has the firm mounts. I notice a fare ammount of vibration with this 272, but then I'm so used to my newer Huskies with their smooth springs.
My 272's mounts have ridges going round them, if I remember correctly the soft ones were smooth.
I would appreciate if you guys could find me some part #s and maybe steer me towards some of the soft mounts if still available.
Thanks,
Willard.
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Thats why I upload pics to free photobucket account and you never need to resize to do so. Then you just use their link and they are saved there if your puter ever crashes.
Lost a lot of stuff like that over the years.
http://photobucket.com/
This link embeds pics IMG (http://http: //i59.photobucket .com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Copyof166extras035.jpg)
Here it is embedded
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Copyof166extras035.jpg)
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501-7734-01 and 501-7735-01 Soft mount PN's. Will look and see if I have.
Shep
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Here is the 272 IPL with hard and soft part numbers listed. Section E or around page 5.
http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20272.pdf
501 77 35-01 (Soft)
** 501 69 91-01 (Hard)
* compl 504 6/8 74-04 (G)
501 27 63-01 (Soft)
501 26 97-02 (Hard
501 77 34-01 (Soft) **
501 62 87-01 (Hard) **
501 53 05-01 (Soft)
501 59 41-01 (Hard
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I thank you big time for the 272XP IPL.
This morning I went to my Husqvarna dealer , ordered the soft mounts, HD air filter complete kit, and winter rewind housing cover.
It appears Husqvarna Canada has all these parts in stock. 8)
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Well a while back I upgraded my "brand new" 272XP with the soft rubber mounts and HD airfiter. And to date I have approximately 50 tanks of fuel through it. Having missed out on these saws years back when I worked for Stihl pushing the 044, I now see what I missed out on. Sure the 272 doesn't have the side chain tensioner what the 044 bragged about back then, no big deal at all. My brand new 2010 395XP has the same front tensioner and no one complains about it.
I really enjoy running this hyper compact outboard clutch 72cc saw. With the 16"b/c, 8 pin 3/8 rim , smooth bumper [no dog teeth] and better centered b/c, it is alot of fun to use.
Plus the ease of setting up the carb with the screwdriver when the engine is running is sooooo much nicer and easier then what is done with my 372. Tuning by ear is slowly going the way of the doo doo bird with all this new AutoTune and all, whats next....hand filing, with the future of "push button sharpening"?
BTW having replaced the steel dogs with the aluminum bumper and removing the inertia weight from the chainbrake lever, my 272XP powerhead is now lighter then my 372XP powerhead.
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I use the 272 mostly as a racesaw cause of the short 34mm stroke you can really turn some rpms with them , as far as torque goes I would take a 371/371 over a 272 for everyday cutting the big hard wood we have around here , I also have a couple Queen's in 272's sitting in the basement
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My 272XP will always sport the 16" and be used just for small timber and limbing /blocking up wood during chipper cleanup. My 372XP-22", Stihl 066 Mag-28" and 395XP-32" handle the bigger stuff.
My lonely little 346XP-16" waits on the sidelines if the 272's chain gets rocked out.
BTW I'm eager to try out the 562XP .
Speaking of race saws I have a notion to send the 272 off to Quebec for a full stock appearing race mods, if I do put the 562XP in my lineup.
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not to may stock appearing 0-74cc events around over here , way more 0-74cc pipe classes
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Ed are you talking about Minden, Ontario?
As I mentioned earlier about sending the 272 to Quebec, I heard Jean- Simon B. has had good luck with them.
I think at 50 tanks the crank bearings should be nicely loosened up by now. But then most builders like working on a brand new unit.
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lets try this again,
Minden has not had a show for some years now , most shows in Quebec are 0-74cc pipe or 0-81cc pipe , you can run a muffler but you should be behind the guys running pipes , any type of fuel is allowed . Simon is very good
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lets try this again,
Minden has not had a show for some years now , most shows in Quebec are 0-74cc pipe or 0-81cc pipe , you can run a muffler but you should be behind the guys running pipes , any type of fuel is allowed . Simon is very good
Thanks for the clarification about Minden, one of the shows I always wanted to visit. I have no plans for the 272 to have a pipe, just gonna run it in the obstacle pole buck events. I have a pipe on my Stihl 064 w/ 084 carb which I built in the late 1980s, but I quess it would be too big cc to run out in Quebec if I should ever take a trip out there.I'm in Manitoba. I've been out of competing since 1991, but with more time for travel now I want to get back into it. For the last 15 yrs I've been organizing and running a timbersports competition for our local winter festival, Husqvarna is my major sponsor.
My brother had pipes built for his 85cc Poulan and 2100 Huskie by a fellow out in Ontario back in the 1980s, same place Ron Hartill had his built. I'll ask him to night when he comes in from camp. If I remember correctly it was Wolf or something. Very strong running pipe.
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The 272 would be better with the longer bar also because of it's "closer to the center" b/c for better balance. As I see it you lose balance in a saw when you want the convenience of a inboard clutch for sprocket rim removal.
I put the tape measure to the 272 and 372 tonight and found this:
The guide bar on the 272 is 2" from the center of the crankcase [gasket]. On the 372 it's 2 3/4".
3/4" difference might not sound like much but it's really noticeable when holding both saws.
Now someone thinking the inboard clutch 372 would cut lower to the ground is wrong. The 272 is lower by a 1/4".
The center of the bar on the 272 is 1" to the edge of the sprocket cover, the 372 is 3/4". Now what makes the 272 lower to the ground is its top handle is flush square to the sprocket cover. The 372's top handle sticks out a 1/2" past the sprocket cover [reason is to compensate for the wider b/c position].
The 272Xp like the 630 Jonsered as I remember will have really nice balance. I just haven't cut a stick of wood with the 272XP yet to make a report on it.
At the moment with my busy schedule I'm waiting for a sunny day and some spare time to take lots of good quality [once in a life time] photos of the mint 272 before it gets all scratched up and dirty.
I can relate to all that, no problem at all! ;D
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Willard, Simon had gave some info about class size limits in his area now days in this stock bore 372 pipe build. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/piped-372/
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I never meet Wolf but do know of him, he built quite a few snowmobile pipes , that is something I have down and hope to never build another set of snowmobile pipes in my life , your 064 would run in the 0-106cc class which is pretty much pure 2100's , One thing thou , you will need to be running on alcohol as gas is not going to help you to even be close
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Willard, Simon had gave some info about class size limits in his area now days in this stock bore 372 pipe build. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/piped-372/
Thanks for the info Kevin, I always wanted to compete out in Quebec but was always worried about the language barrier. Some of the fastest power and hand saws ,plus loggers come out of that province.
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I never meet Wolf but do know of him, he built quite a few snowmobile pipes , that is something I have down and hope to never build another set of snowmobile pipes in my life , your 064 would run in the 0-106cc class which is pretty much pure 2100's , One thing thou , you will need to be running on alcohol as gas is not going to help you to even be close
Thanks for the warning. Yes it's funny how history goes, back in the late 1970s- early '80s my 2 brothers and I were running ,85cc Poulans, 2100 Huskies and 090s all with pipes in the open class in 10"X10", 3 cut cold start.
I had good luck with my 090, so then the brothers each buy a Bob Walker Mac 101 kart saw with pipes and big carbs.
To keep up to them I converted the 090 over to methonal with a Mikuni 34mm alky diaphram kart carb and reed valve intake manifold I bought from Russell Karting. To make the reed valve work on the 090 I had to cut 2 "boost ports" holes into the intake side of the piston. Lots of tinkering but I was able to cut with the Macs...... until the next year when a big strong kid comes in with a dealer sponsored 400cc Husqvarna bikesaw. That was Feb 1983. That year I built my 1982 Yamaha 125YZ liquid bikesaw and for the 8 following years I had lots of good runs with it just on gas.
Last year in 1991 before our event was shut down I was up against 084s sponsored by big city Stihl dealers with cut off heads etc built out east.
I got the Yamaha on the bench right now all torn down , after a 20 year rest she still has lots of potential in her for the 140cc limit class......... now that I have a better idea whats best for her.
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I think if you want Simon now you'll be mailing it west of Manitoba not east. He's staring at the backside of the rockies as we speak. ;D
I'm not sure if its clear but 0-140 are production classes only, then an unlimited class where anything goes,and is where your 125 will be playing, with 250 Hondas and 325 Rotax's btw.
As Ed stated everything is on fuel and pipes and freaking fast.
Quebec does have a phenominal timbersports history, but new guys just aren't filling the void of the retirees.
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I think Simon is back home for xmas right now but Jeff is correct , the 125 cc wound be running in the unlimited class , Some places do have muffler classes but most shows are by cc and run a pipe
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Here's a question Ed, could a 272 muffler saw be made to compete with the pipe saws?
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I guess it can be done but I think it would be very hard to do , sure you can make a real kick ass muffler saw to beat 10 saws out of 20 but those last 10 are going to be real hard to beat and I guess another thing is , it depends on the wood . I have seen 272 muffler saw cut 8 by 8 whitepine real fast but take that same saw and try cutting 10 by 10 in harder aspen and the amount in difference grows alot between the muffler and pipe saws
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I'm not sure if its clear but 0-140 are production classes only, then an unlimited class where anything goes,and is where your 125 will be playing, with 250 Hondas and 325 Rotax's btw.
I think Simon is back home for xmas right now but Jeff is correct , the 125 cc wound be running in the unlimited class , Some places do have muffler classes but most shows are by cc and run a pipe
Thanks Ed and Jeff for the input. I didn't expain earlier but I have never competed east of Manitoba, always west. Thats the reason why I built the 125 bikesaw many years ago because the open hotsaw cc limit under the CANLOG rules has always been 140cc max. The exception was a small non CANLOG show when that Husky 400cc bikesaw competed.
2 cuts in 18"-24" [some show's also have 1 cut] cold start for the hotsaws. 3 cuts 12"-16" for stock appearing. They also have a 100cc open class for factory saws with pipes and anything goes. At home here on the prairies we always have cut 10"X10" or 8"X8".
I want a fast stock appearing 272XP for the Obstacle pole buck, Precision cut [Grande Prairie precision cut], Boring speed buck and Pole falling. Some shows have 3 different cc classes for stock appearing speed buck.
I have chopped underhand, standing, springboard, crosscut and bow saw [JP Mercier blade] ;).
Squamish is the best show of the summer.
I want to try competing in Quebec some day, I have been learning French with the help of my 8 year old daughter who speaks it very well. 8)
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Sir , one thing about competing in Quebec, you do not need to be able to speak one word of french , these people will do what ever it takes so you understand and have a great time , Shows in Quebec are far more fun for me than doing shows else where , now I have not down any shows for quite a while but hope to some day soon again, some one will speak english and will tell you whats going on
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That's good to know. I have travelled through Quebec years ago and didn't find a problem communicating. But I want to learn the language, I've worked over the years with alot of excellent Quebec loggers here in Manitoba and they had no problem learning English.
I remember these guys talking about a big show in Rimouski, Quebec in the 1980s where wood cutters from all over the world came to. Competitors from Finland were said to do well at the chainsaw handling [limbing-precision] events.
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I've just been watching timbersports on TSN2 and the game channel and Bill Deeba is showing lots of older shows. Kaslo BC is one in particular, just cuz I love the area but those events your talking about, I've just seen for the first time and know what your talking about. Grande Prairie.OP.choker
I'm wondering just how fast of a saw you would need.
It seems your doing more running/climbing than sawing and your cutting in uncomfortable positions. In a 30 second Obstacle pole race your using the saw for 5 seconds?
Wouldn't a hot gas woodsport and race chain work well.
Alky is just damn persnickety. I did see someone have an older little(50 or 60 cc) red Jonny or home delight that were way faster than the other saws.
Canlog rules... dont get the east guys started on that stuff, every show has its own rules it seems..
East has it set just like a Stihl series events but with a couple more chainsaws events any modification except bike parts and fuel goes.
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Bill Deeba's channel, check out all the videos, I think he has 85 or something like that. Some old some from this October in Quebec
http://www.youtube.com/user/LumberjacksOnline?blend=11&ob=video-mustangbase (http://www.youtube.com/user/LumberjacksOnline?blend=11&ob=video-mustangbase)
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Some more viewing pleasure
http://www.youtube.com/user/Grindingdust?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase (http://www.youtube.com/user/Grindingdust?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase)
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those events your talking about, I've just seen for the first time and know what your talking about. Grande Prairie.OP.choker
I'm wondering just how fast of a saw you would need.
It seems your doing more running/climbing than sawing and your cutting in uncomfortable positions. In a 30 second Obstacle pole race your using the saw for 5 seconds?
Wouldn't a hot gas woodsport and race chain work well.
Alky is just damn persnickety.
Jeff thanks for posting some good entertainment there! I wish I could be as computer savvy, but I have to admit I only learned to turn one on a couple of years ago :D
In the Grande Prairie Precision cut and the Obstacle pole buck events a light fast saw makes all the difference in the world. Sure it looks like a lot of running and climbing in the obstacle pole buck, but in the top 3 finishers it always comes down to the speed and quickness of the saw.
In the precision cut its "all" speed and ergonomics of the saw.The 272XP with its excellent centered b/c and balance thanks to it's outboard clutch really excells in these 2 events. I did really well with a 630/670 Jonsered in these events back in the day.
No way would I use alky again, last resort maybe in my 125 YZ bikesaw. I would run the 272 on gas like you said with a good woods port.
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Put a 16" 3/8 on the 268xp / 272xp topend saw today. Couldnt even take it for a :-X test drive :'(. Recoil was not engaging. Took apart put back together and still not engaging.
Ideas what to look at next?
Saving IPL's
268 http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20268.pdf
272 http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20272.pdf
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Here is what I noticed today. Pawls work freely. But when I tighten center starting pulley bolt down the metal part of pulley can not reach the pawls. If I loosen center bolt the metal part of pulley has some play to come out some and catch the pawls to start saw.
Is this a sign of worn starter pulley or starter pawls? I'm thinking starter pulley.
After starting I made some test cuts with 16" on the same wood the 346's were tested in yesterday. ;D
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Here is what I noticed today. Pawls work freely. But when I tighten center starting pulley bolt down the metal part of pulley can not reach the pawls. If I loosen center bolt the metal part of pulley has some play to come out some and catch the pawls to start saw.
Is this a sign of worn starter pulley or starter pawls? I'm thinking starter pulley.
I didnt know this and I do have the shorter pulley on it now.
61, 266, 268, 268k, 272, 272xp, 272k, 272s MODELS.
Husqvarna supplied 2 different pulleys for these models.
This pulley has the 5 rings on the stem. Please confirm this with your pulley before purchase.
Metal Stem Height: 23mm & 14mm Center bore hole.
Older pulleys had 10mm center hole.
PART NUMBER 503102405
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Different housings as well you have to match the pulley with the right housing...
posted a quick pic over here:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,48687.msg710155.html#msg710155
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That explains it. Thanks.
This is a 268xp with 272 topend. So I do have the right short pulley just worn out I guess. I almost most bought the longer one when I noticed something was different and wanted to know more.
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There are 3 pulleys that fit this series saws. PN: 501-5207-01 fits 162-61-266 10mm hole. 503-1024-02 fits 61-66-266-268-272 short tube (2 part ign. w/sm decal). 503-1024-05 fits (late model single coil w/big decal) 61-268-272 long tube. Also fits Jreds 625-630-670. Don't know the Jred's well enough to include their numbers but the coil is the major determing factor on which pulley to use.
Shep
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I pulled the pulley out of the 268SE XP 5031024-0 was on pulley. Center hole was 10.4mm Does show some wear on the metal short tube catch area and is rounded off some.
Looked at coil and it is single. small decal.
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Dang I'm confusing myself here. The pulley I took off 5031024-0 the 2 stamped on dial, 268 for 1987 shows 5031024 03 on IPL.
What would be the safe one to buy? 02 or 03 or are they the same or what. ???
03 says
268 (1987-05) Chainsaw
268 (1987-11) Chainsaw
268 (1989-02) Chainsaw
268 (1990-05) Chainsaw
268 (1991-02) Chainsaw
268 K (1989-01) Power Cutter
02 says
61 (1985-06) Chainsaw
61 (1986-03) Chainsaw
61 (1986-12) Chainsaw
61 (1987-11) Chainsaw
61 (1988-06) Chainsaw
66 (1987-06) Chainsaw
66 (1988-08) Chainsaw
66 (1989-02) Chainsaw
66 (1991-03) Chainsaw
266 (1985-06) Chainsaw
266 (1986-01) Chainsaw
266 (1986-04) Chainsaw
266 (1986-12) Chainsaw
266 (1987-11) Chainsaw
266 (1988-06) Chainsaw
266 (1989-02) Chainsaw
266 (1990-01) Chainsaw
281 (1989-02) Chainsaw
281 (1991-04) Chainsaw
288 (1989-02) Chainsaw
288 (1991-04) Chainsaw
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Perhaps just different production dates.
You need to check the bulletins and IPL to see if there was changes made, I really doubt it, but it could have been.
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I just bought this one 503102403 . Hopefully it works for retail cost. :o
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Dang I'm confusing myself here. The pulley I took off 5031024-0 the 2 stamped on dial, 268 for 1987 shows 5031024 03 on IPL.
What would be the safe one to buy? 02 or 03 or are they the same or what. ???
03 says
268 (1987-05) Chainsaw
268 (1987-11) Chainsaw
268 (1989-02) Chainsaw
268 (1990-05) Chainsaw
268 (1991-02) Chainsaw
268 K (1989-01) Power Cutter
02 says
61 (1985-06) Chainsaw
61 (1986-03) Chainsaw
61 (1986-12) Chainsaw
61 (1987-11) Chainsaw
61 (1988-06) Chainsaw
66 (1987-06) Chainsaw
66 (1988-08) Chainsaw
66 (1989-02) Chainsaw
66 (1991-03) Chainsaw
266 (1985-06) Chainsaw
266 (1986-01) Chainsaw
266 (1986-04) Chainsaw
266 (1986-12) Chainsaw
266 (1987-11) Chainsaw
266 (1988-06) Chainsaw
266 (1989-02) Chainsaw
266 (1990-01) Chainsaw
281 (1989-02) Chainsaw
281 (1991-04) Chainsaw
288 (1989-02) Chainsaw
288 (1991-04) Chainsaw
Looks like IPL dates, but goes only up to 1991, so a lot is missing.
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I just bought this one 503102403 . Hopefully it works for retail cost. :o
Yeah right for 268 503102403
The metal part of the pulley is to short to reach the pawls. Go figure. >:(
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This time I bought a 5031024-05 if it turns out to long I can fix that. 2 short like the last new one I couldnt.
The last one was 2mm shorter then the one I took off. I think it was like (numbers are going to be wrong I know going from my memory yesterday). 16mm 03 was new one 18mm 02 I took off and 05 ones are suppose to be 23mm long.
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Different housings as well you have to match the pulley with the right housing...
posted a quick pic over here:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,48687.msg710155.html#msg710155
I just bought this one 503102403 . Hopefully it works for retail cost. :o
Yeah right for 268 503102403
The metal part of the pulley is to short to reach the pawls. Go figure. >:(
This time I bought a 5031024-05 if it turns out to long I can fix that. 2 short like the last new one I couldnt.
The last one was 2mm shorter then the one I took off. I think it was like (numbers are going to be wrong I know going from my memory yesterday). 16mm 03 was new one 18mm 02 I took off and 05 ones are suppose to be 23mm long.
Sweet 503102405 to long just like weimedog posted in the pic. 5 mins on the side of grinder wheel and fits great and works like a charm. No more BS trying to find the right ones that dont work when they come in anyways and HALF the price to boot. (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/smiles/woohoo.gif) (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/smiles/woot-1.gif) (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/smiles/woot-1.gif) (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/smiles/woot-1.gif)
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Where do I find the old style brake band in the 268 with metal hand brake handle? The one in the IPL looks different and newer style.
http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20268.pdf
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp005.jpg)
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Where do I find the old style brake band in the 268 with metal hand brake handle? The one in the IPL looks different and newer style.
http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20268.pdf
Anyone know the part # for the old style brake band for the metal handles? Shown in pic above and is different then the new ones in IPL.
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501830201 is the part number, but it's NLA from Husky. Only real option would be to get the entire new style side cover.
I like the old metal chain brakes. Little sandpaper and they shine up real nice on the old girls. 8)
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501830201 is the part number, but it's NLA from Husky. Only real option would be to get the entire new style side cover.
I like the old metal chain brakes. Little sandpaper and they shine up real nice on the old girls. 8)
New owner of 268/272 wanted the new updated 272 clutch cover. So I ended up getting one of these for him. http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+50373+6601&catID=
So I now have the husqvarna 268 272 61 metal handle chain brake cover (in pic above) that needs the NLA brake band or just run it without like I did. Trades or sale out right.
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(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/photobucket-33855-1356215688997.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/photobucket-24416-1356215681990.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/photobucket-33524-1356215682526.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/photobucket-34053-1356215683565.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/photobucket-33866-1356215684101.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/photobucket-34054-1356215687944.jpg)
My good friend just gave me this 'veteran' 272XP (with 268 top cover and starter cover) for Christmas. It's a good runner. Last time it was used, He was cutting up a large maple with me last April. If I'm deciphering things right........it was built in the second weekd of January, 1996.
Needs an outer bar plate, kill switch, brake band, and brake flag (and screw/bushing/spring). Has the 'knee link' and coil spring for the brake, as well as the brake hardware cover and screws. Yes I know the dawg is on upside-down. That's easily fixed, and I won't hold it against my buddy.:D
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272 Decals . . . .
http://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=nowavailable&action=display&thread=2672
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272 Decals . . . .
http://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=nowavailable&action=display&thread=2672
Cool. I didn't know that SCS was making decals for these saws. Thanks for the info!
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A member of this site also sells these same decals "Chainsawr" $30.04
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/husqvarna-272xp-latesmall-dc-decal-set
I have bought several items from chainsawr and the parts and service has always been excellent.
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When looking at the pictures I saw the unfamilar blue decomp button on the saw. My 1993 272XP has no decomp but only has a few tanks of fuel run through it to date since '93.
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My aftermarket 272 top had de-comp
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Don't need it on my '93
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Later 272XP's, as well as the aftermarket top ends have comp releases.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Husqvarna%20272XP/CAM00008.jpg)
Cleaned a buncha mung out of the saw, flipped the dawgs over (after stripping the spraypaint off of them), mounted a 28" B/C (only bar I have in this mount at the moment), and ran it a bit tonight. It'll be in the working stable once I replace the bar plate and CB parts. I'm going to pick up a 24" bar to run on it as well. Here it is in the messy corner of the shop (LOL).
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Looking good Aaron, I thought Husqvarna would have put spring anti vibe mounts on these late model '96 272s .
The 262 had it in '89 and the 394 in '92 .
But now that I think of it the 272s still made today and sold in the south Pacifac are still rubber, if I'm not mistaken.
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To the best o f my knowledge rubber mounts only for 61-268-272. Do wish they had spring mts. tho. Hard ones aren't to bad.
Shep
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As I'm used to running non-AV saws (and old rubber mounted AV saws), I prefer AV mounts that have less 'give'. The rubber mounts on these saws give a good 'feel' for me. Just can't get used to running a 'springy' saw such as a Dolmar 6400-7900. The 372XP's I've ran weren't bad.
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I find my 372s spring mounts are too spongy.
Speaking of solid anti vibe mounts, on my old stock appearing saws for speed cutting events ,I made up aluminum mounts to replace the saws rubber mounts. For only 3 cuts in a race with this setup I have the "best feel for the wood".
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I find my 372s spring mounts are too spongy.
Speaking of solid anti vibe mounts, on my old stock appearing saws for speed cutting events ,I made up aluminum mounts to replace the saws rubber mounts. For only 3 cuts in a race with this setup I have the "best feel for the wood".
That's a pretty slick idea.
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I find my 372s spring mounts are too spongy.
Speaking of solid anti vibe mounts, on my old stock appearing saws for speed cutting events ,I made up aluminum mounts to replace the saws rubber mounts. For only 3 cuts in a race with this setup I have the "best feel for the wood".
That's a pretty slick idea.
...for that use!
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I find my 372s spring mounts are too spongy.
Speaking of solid anti vibe mounts, on my old stock appearing saws for speed cutting events ,I made up aluminum mounts to replace the saws rubber mounts. For only 3 cuts in a race with this setup I have the "best feel for the wood".
That's a pretty slick idea.
...for that use!
That's what I meant.....:D
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Working on a 272 clutch cover that came apart. Easy fix once lost part ordered.
Husqvarna 272 IPL http://www.jonsered.ws/272.pdf
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My "brand new" 272XP with under 10 tanks through it is now a shelf queen, in the near future I plan on sending it off for full race porting and stroked bottom end, might even go cut off head.
I need a few opinions if 10 tanks is enough of break in for max power after the race mods. Years back I would put about a thousand hours on a work saw then put a new p/c on it and put another 80 hours before putting the mods in .
Well broke in bottom end with a just broke in top end seemed to work good for me.
But with full race mods 10 tanks might be all I need?
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To add to my last post, what I was asking was how much break in time does a full race ported, stroked chain saw power head need?
With my Yamaha YZ bike saw it only needs approximate 10 minutes to break in bearings and rings to be race ready.
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Had a very nice looking 268xp come in the shop today needing a muffler brace. The saw looks and feels great, its the first one I have ever seen. I'm definitely looking forward to playing a bit when the new parts arrive. What can I expect...:-D
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In my experience,
You can expect a few more rpms than a 272 and little less torque.
Very nice saws more powerful than a 61 but still not a 272.
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Had a 268 with 272 cylinder in today. While trying to tune I noticed it would still four stroke with H side closed.
Didnt get a chance to see which carb but guessing needs a cleaning and kit.
Any ideas if you have seen this as to why it would be 4 stroking with H side closed.
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Metering lever too high.
Metering lever fork not seated in the grooved 'tit' on the metering diaphragm.
Leaking needle/seat due to grit or damage.
Leaking welch plug.
........or a combination of two or more of those.
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If swapping and or fixing the carb doesn't fix it.... check and make certain the plug wire isn't arcing to either the case or the cylinder. ::)
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All the above will be getting checked when it comes back in Jan.
Now I am wondering if this carb had a brass governor on it that goes bad. Acted like ones that has done that in past too.
Didnt think of this till 530am
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Just in case it is this carb Tillotson HS 234b http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1989_AAaa/HUSI1989_AAaa_I8900006_.pdf
Diaphragm & Gasket Set RK-23HS DG-5HS/T
Tillotson Carburetor & Kit Application Chart https://www.stens.com/assets/media/pdf/2012_Tillotson_Application_Chart.pdf
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Tillotson HS service manual http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/techinfo_hs_us.pdf
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Plug the governor with a little aluminum disc or Welch plug
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Plug the governor with a little aluminum disc or Welch plug
Dont have saw right now. When it comes back thats what I'll do if it has ones.
Didnt think to look for one when it was here.
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Not welch. No gov on the HS 234. Put one of the new AFM 272 carbs CCC Dave sent me. Carb is great, but still no change.
Checked all wires for grounding. Nothing I could find.
Wonder if a coil is going out? Also wonder if it might have been a aftermarket coil at one time and is failing now. Dont matter if oem or afm. But it flutters like it is fat but plug shows not. So think a coil could be doing this?
Reminds me of what jmester was saying that 394 coil was doing. Not letting it get up to rpm's and fluttering or breaking down?
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Not real familiar with the model saw you are working on but sound exactly like what I had going on with the 394 I had. Put an oem module in it and it has ran great. If everything else checks out on the fuel side and the ignition wiring is good. I would try another coil.
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I wish I would have thought of it yesterday. But a coil from a poulan 415-505 and a partner 500 5000 and others would have worked for a test.
Husqvarna 50, 51, 55, 61, 254, 257, 261, 262, 268, 272, and Jonsered 625, 630, 2054, 2055, 2095
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Not real familiar with the model saw you are working on but sound exactly like what I had going on with the 394 I had. Put an oem module in it and it has ran great. If everything else checks out on the fuel side and the ignition wiring is good. I would try another coil.
Could you screw in the H on the 394 and it still blubber sounding?
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I could seat the high speed and still blubber/4 stroke
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I could seat the high speed and still blubber/4 stroke
Exactly what I am chasing.
He cut a truck load of ash in 20mins today he said. Even though it is running like chit. Said the stihl 311 guy and stihl 290 guy took hr each.
I said how, your saw is running like crap. He said your chain dawg. :P
I had hand filed it for him knowing he wanted to talk chit to them. ;)
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Very good. That's some funny s$it.
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Aftermarket coil just showed up. Says designed in Italy. Bet it was made in big T or C but cant find a made in ? anywhere on it.
Looks great.
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I was told coil was Italy made.
Has DAYED 4 on coil and designed in Italy on coil.
ITALY standard on box. Professional parts. Green box. Original quality 100%
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New aftermarket coil installed and still has the fluttering symptoms like it is 4 stroking.
New carb, new coil. Checked all wires for any grounding, notta.
At a loss here. ???
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Leaky welch plug would cause the issue as would a high needle that seats on the spring before the orifice. Other than that id suspect the fanwheel /coil issue
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coil
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20014_zpsuxtienhk.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20014_zpsuxtienhk.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20020_zpsvfacamzu.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20020_zpsvfacamzu.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20016_zpsvzzwtr1s.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20016_zpsvzzwtr1s.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20018_zpsw7nloivn.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20018_zpsw7nloivn.jpg.html)
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Needed some clearance due to where lead come out different. Had to do this on 3120 too.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20022_zpsmqlizu7q.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20022_zpsmqlizu7q.jpg.html)
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Said screw it going through it with owner permission.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20024_zpsti6sbyit.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2100p26837266husky/afmcarbscoil272%20024_zpsti6sbyit.jpg.html)
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Leaky welch plug would cause the issue as would a high needle that seats on the spring before the orifice. Other than that id suspect the fanwheel /coil issue
Did new carb and new coil.
Tore it down and going to go through it.
Never pulled flywheel. But did check magnets for pull.
What if fly slipped?
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I'm going to do my redneck fuel line deal on this saw like the stihls. Bypass that $10 molded fuel line.
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I would check the inlet needle taper on the new carb and compare to the one in the tillotson. I remember back on the 394 I did the inlet needle in the k10-wj kit had a second taper. Pulled it out a used the one from a k15 kit with a single taper and helped to fix the over rich problem.
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Back together today. Put new ring, redneck fuel line using old molded grommets etc. Bot new carb bolts as the heads have been wollard out over the years.
Reason for new ring even though pulled 140psi. Ring wear was noticeable compared to the new one and it seemed like old ring had lost tension. Just mt WAG
Maybe ring FLUTTER was what I was hearing even when H was all the way in? Is this possible?
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Just comparing carbs
Tillotson HS260 to HS234
260
Venturi 11/16"-17.5 MM
Throttle Bore 20.64 mm on a 260a race carb
234
Venturi
11/16"-17.5 MM
So what is the difference in these 2 carbs? I cant find anything on throttle bore on 234.
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If you have the 234 in the box just measure the throttle bore with your calipers?
I was thinking you had the bigger carb on the saw?
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I have the new HS260 but going by Tilley HS site venture same.
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Me and Jim was talking about the blow by on this.
If I remember right I swear I could tell a area in the ring where it was thinner too.
The area behind ring was wet and whole ring blacked. Ring had felt like it had lost tension IMO too.
Anyone heard of this before and causing the problem I was seeing?
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Was talking with Cliff about this a while back and he had a 5 cube that he thought had carb or ignition issues and it turned out to be a ring that barely nicked a port and was hard to see...
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Was talking with Cliff about this a while back and he had a 5 cube that he thought had carb or ignition issues and it turned out to be a ring that barely nicked a port and was hard to see...
Good info. Right where I was at and nothing new fixed it.
Thats why I pulled it down to go piece by piece. I would have never thought of a ring causing this. But it did.
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Rednecking the molded 1 piece oem fuel line in these with tygon line.
I just cut the grommet off the tank area area and then installed the tygon line through tank gromment. Then through the the carb area seal.
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0032/0472/products/hemogum_005_large.JPG?v=1414059411)
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Just comparing carbs
Tillotson HS260 to HS234
260
Venturi 11/16"-17.5 MM
Throttle Bore 20.64 mm on a 260a race carb
234
Venturi
11/16"-17.5 MM
So what is the difference in these 2 carbs? I cant find anything on throttle bore on 234.
How about the interface vs. intake, impulse, choke, throttle, etc?
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Owner ran saw and took home today. Happy camper. ;)
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JFYI those aftermarket replacement carb bolts were perfect replacements. 268 61 272 are on list. Any other saws they work with?
(http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1nCJEKpXXXXXmaXXXq6xXFXXXX/4Pcs-font-b-Carburetor-b-font-Bolt-Fit-font-b-Husqvarna-b-font-268-61-272.jpg)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41YwlDhvHML._SX425_.jpg)
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The look nice
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Cant remember if I told this.
While I was rebuilding a 272 for a friend. He was thinking he might want me to muffler mod it.
Well after she was all together and many brews later still hmm hawing about muffler mod. I explained how open the 272 muffler already was and would just be opening the exit and it will get louder and carb adjustment. Explained 272 will not see gains that some of the choked up saws will see like a echo or stihl 290-390 saws do. 272 already breathes good IMO.
Well I finally had a idea. I took my stock muffler 445 and my muffler modded 505 to the back testing log. I let him make cuts with both. Then ask him what he wants to cut with for hours.
272 still has stock muffler. ;)
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The redneck tygon fuel line in place of the molded line above.
I just reuse the grommets and tygon. no drilling for any I have done so far.
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I used your idea just the other with a small change. I used a piece of brass tubing that I pushed through like you did and then attached the fuel line to both sides of the brass tubing. You can get the brass tubing at any hobby shop and it comes in all different sizes. The brass tubing has no give and will not compress when pushed through a grommet and with fuel line on both ends it stays in place.
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I used your idea just the other with a small change. I used a piece of brass tubing that I pushed through like you did and then attached the fuel line to both sides of the brass tubing. You can get the brass tubing at any hobby shop and it comes in all different sizes. The brass tubing has no give and will not compress when pushed through a grommet and with fuel line on both ends it stays in place.
Nice. 8)
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Husqvarna 268 xp in today. After getting it started and running and cutting to get it hot it is acting like the crank seal on pto side is leaking to me.
Info on seal replacement on these as I havent did one yet. I'll start digging too. Thanks
Saving info as I go.
clutch side crank seal goes in the oil pump body not the case. The oil pumb body is o-ringed to the case. this is another good place for an air leak to occur
o-ring on the back of the oil pump leak air as often as I see the actual crank seals leak.
Is this the o-ring they are talking about? seals and o-rings
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODMyWDc3Mg==/z/qfAAAOSwZVhWSPy4/$_58.JPG)
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husqvarna 268 IPL http://www.declicmotoculture.com/fs/Root/boq9i-268.pdf
seal 503 26 02-04 503260204
o ring 740 42 21-00 740422100
saving info
the crank seal is mounted in the oil pump housing...remove the oil pump housing being careful to note the tiny o-ring that seals pump body the oil passage going to the bar.....also note how deep the crank seal is mounted in the housing. It may be easier to remove the oil pump gear and shaft again noting the order of the parts. Tap the old out and the new in to the same depth as the old using an appropriate deep socket.....make sure it goes in square to the bore and be very careful not to scar the sides of the bore where the seal set against. Now you will notice that the oil pump housing is also o-ringed to the case.....this must be replaced at this time as well .....this is a special sized o-ring and should be picked up from a Husky dealer part # 740 42 21 00. Use a dab of grease on the seal lips to help it to slide over the crank end.
flywheel side...there two ways this can be depending on the year.....the early (two piece ign) has a seal carrier held in place by three screws...remove the screws and carrier...same as clutch side..tap in tap out, setting the seal to the original depth. This carrier is also o-ringed to the case with the same o-ring as the clutch side so you will need two of these. The late version (one piece ign) does away with the carrier and the o-ring....the seal is right in the case....remove the seal by using a seal puller or a thin screwdriver to lever the seal out...again be very careful of the side of the case bore...do not scratch it.....tap the new seal into place squarely with a deep socket......install to the original depth.
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Anyone try the aftermarket seals and o rings on this series of saws? Northwood Saw has them for half cost of oem. So wondering.
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Any info @weimedog
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On Jacks small engine website I can get OEM for cheaper then the aftermarket. Shipping is $2 more but no biggie
Husqvarna 503260204 Sealing Ring $2.99
Husqvarna 740422100 O-Ring $1.99
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Found a leak at base gasket. Went and did a gasket delete with threebond 1194.
Tested again and seems to me to be flywheel side seal. Lay on flywheel side after hot and she just takes off at higher rpm spinning the chain.
sob flywheel was on there goooood. :-X :-X
Seal was a sob too :-X :D. Can see chipping inside the crankcase on seal area from lip areah to about a 1/3 to 1/2 down. Told owner what I saw and will see if I can seat the seal little deeper to seal up. Might be iffy IMO.
Had pto side down to the seal with oil pump still on. Put it all back when tested so hope pto side goes easier when parts come in.
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Oh also noticed where seal rides the crank it appears to be a slight worn groove. Anyone seen this on chainsaws? I have seen it on car cranks but not on a saw.
Dont know if the seal will seal anyways right there. but going deeper should clear this too.
Any thoughts or info?
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2 503260204 Sealing Ring $2.99 $5.98
1 740422100 O-Ring $1.99 $1.99
1 501806803 Gasket $2.10 $2.10
1 501296402 Gasket $1.99 $1.99
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Everything back together. Just waiting on new seals and o-ring. Will have to pull the intake and carb back off for the new gaskets too. But want to test it with new seals and the old carb and intake gaskets first.
Dont know if pics you can see the chipping on bottom right seal area.
.024 squish with base gasket delete.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14606344_10210077818078504_3385136367029825815_n.jpg?oh=9a5060634f2838ca3f9c0beeeb814962&oe=589810CA)
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Parts came in from Jacks small engine today. Installed and tested good.
Owner suppose to pick up tomorrow to give it a hard run with 20+ downed trees.
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Owner picked up the saw today. Gave me a a 6'er for tip. ;D :P
Also I took some pics of it comparing side to side and top to top with my 475. Same way I did the 445 440 372 pics.
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268 272 side by side top to top pics with my 475
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That 475 looks a little bit fatter.
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That 475 looks a little bit fatter.
Yep and is.
Have pics of the 445 440 372 together too.
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That 475 looks a little bit fatter.
Yep and is.
Have pics of the 445 440 372 together too.
pics below
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I have seen wear on the seal area of the crank like that before. Have been able to work around it by seating the seal a bit deeper (check to see that there's room for the seal lip first).
Husky flywheels (at least on 100/200 series, 285/1100/2100/298/2101) always seem to be a **** to remove. I always have to use a puller on them. Most others (except old large frame Macs) seem to be more cooperative. May have something to do with the tapers they use. Just a SWAG...
So far I have always used OEM seals and o-rings on these. I usually replace the little oil pump discharge x-ring as already mentioned. When that leaks, oil dribbles out from under the pump rather than going where it is supposed to.
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I have seen wear on the seal area of the crank like that before. Have been able to work around it by seating the seal a bit deeper (check to see that there's room for the seal lip first).
Husky flywheels (at least on 100/200 series, 285/1100/2100/298/2101) always seem to be a **** to remove. I always have to use a puller on them. Most others (except old large frame Macs) seem to be more cooperative. May have something to do with the tapers they use. Just a SWAG...
So far I have always used OEM seals and o-rings on these. I usually replace the little oil pump discharge x-ring as already mentioned. When that leaks, oil dribbles out from under the pump rather than going where it is supposed to.
I set seal deeper and all good. Between the marks on crankcase area and the crank wear seal area. Seems I got by both.
What is this x-ring? Is it the small o-ring where it goes into the bar oil tank?
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Guy told me if it ever needs it crank bearing and split he wants it done. He loves the weight and handling etc of this saw.
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That's how I feel about my 266XP and 272XP (and I'm sure I'll feel the same way about my 268XP after I rebuild it).
The 1/2"-ish diameter rubber bit that goes into the oil tank is the flange end of the pickup tube. You can pull it out of the hole in the tank when the pump is removed.
The tiny 1/4"-ish diameter square-ish section rubber ring on the little roll pin sticking out of the backside of the oil pump body is the X-ring. It has an X cross section (basically a square cross section with a shallow groove around the OD and another within the ID). It seals the pump discharge port against a hole in the case that feeds a passage that leads to the bar oil feed slot in the bar mount pad. Damn thing costs $3-$4 or so, but is important to replace if old and gummy.
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Thanks for info
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Good friend stops in with 268/272 no start.
Also wanted chain touched up.
Need to see if the coil is going out. Didnt have time to run it for 30mins straight. Sent back out with him to test with chain sharpened.
Also 353 to look over said smoking from recoil area. LOL needed cleaned bad = getting hot. Plus very dull chain needs sharpened.
Cash is king but sometimes I prefer things made in TN ;). Plus the 30pak not my choice of brew but it was bonus. ;)
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I bet that's tasty
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I bet that's tasty
Wife tried the orange crush. Said it was gooooood. Dangerous type good as goes down to easy sipping.
Other Punch.
Guy I got it from said he was tired of waking up next day not knowing what happened that night. :D :D
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Been there got the T shirt. Tanqueray gin and Country Time lemonade the culprit!!
Shep
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Was having a few brews in the work area yesterday with a firewood cutter with 3 saws in tow. He is getting little older and just a tad over a year from retirement. So the heavier bigger saw was cut from his stable. He had 71cc 62cc 52cc
Anyhow I somehow ended up with a 1987 husqvarna 268XP with aftermarket 272 topend and newer style clutch cover. Plus some bars and chains.
The 268 is SE on black metal tag and XP on covers.
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Pulling after market 272 carb and putting the oem tillotson HS-234 back on. Just need a carb kit RK-23HS
http://tillotson.ie/product/rk23hs-repair-kit/
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Last time it will see a 24" I tested with yesterday.
Guy wants it in 2 weeks for his dads birthday. Setting up with 18"
If it stayed around I was going to put the oem 268xp 50mm closed port topend on it.
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Picked up a homeowner owned 1993 husqvarna 268 yesterday to fix up and flip.
They had put a aftermarket carb on it. AFM recoil too. Wrong tensioner bolt so switched in a husky bolt.
Fixed the cheaply made recoil so pulley worked, got running but going to look for oem carb and recoil.
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As seen before picking up.
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Made a short video idling for new owner. Saw is SOLD going into a collection.
New owner going to get the OEM recoil and carb himself. Saves me the hunt.
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Lotta good saw pics, but the pic in the fridge looks even better. Some of those jars from TN even make their way up to the mountains up here. Supposed to have some vanilla bean coming from a guy who visits family in TN after I worked on his 2165 last week.
I hope the original, (and NLA), 268XP top end was actually bad when it was replaced with the AM kit. I've yet to see an AM kit that will run with an OEM without a lot of work, even if going up a notch displacement wise. Same applies to people replacing 48mm 365 top ends with AM kits. People get sucked in by all this "big bore" hype and toss out a perfectly good OEM kit for a chinese top end with .060 squish. Crazy. Then there's the obvious trade off in longevity.
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I hope the original, (and NLA), 268XP top end was actually bad when it was replaced with the AM kit. I've yet to see an AM kit that will run with an OEM without a lot of work, even if going up a notch displacement wise. Same applies to people replacing 48mm 365 top ends with AM kits. People get sucked in by all this "big bore" hype and toss out a perfectly good OEM kit for a chinese top end with .060 squish. Crazy. Then there's the obvious trade off in longevity.
No clue as I took it on trade twice over the years with same afm 272 top on it. Came from VA first time traded in.
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1989 300th local
I passed it up.
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Guy I know bought that 1989 300th 268xp. He said he worked on carb some. Now flipping it.
I ask him what the psi etc was, if a XP 268 cylinder and if piston was scuffed etc. But he didnt go that deep into itto look.
Fighting the urge again to buy the darn thing to dig into it.
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Passed again. Had a aftermarket topend on it. So for collector types that would want this saw it was devalued not being a OEM closed ported 50mm cylinder.