Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: mrbb on July 03, 2013, 07:16:40 pm
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OK I am looking for some help
I have a older husky 55 rancher, that I bought new back in 2001, and its been a problem saw ever since it seems
goes from running great to crap in a heat beat
long story short, its been in several Husky dealer shops for warranty work as well as out of pocket repairs(what I spent I should have just bought a new saw)
any ways it was in a dealer last winter, they rebuilt the carb, and got it runnibng
today I needed to cut a fallen tree up, and it started(new gas) easy, then started running wide open throttle all by its self,
so wide open , kill switch would even work, had to pull the choke out and that managed to shut it down!
what I found when I took top cover off was ONLY had one carb screw in it, and it was just not in its hole
apparently last guy to work on it stripped out both screw holes, and guess this one screw was holding the carb on when he gave it bacl to me, but the vibrations , it walked out, thus running bad!
so questions
how do I get new screws to work, is tehre abything I can place inn the screw holes to snug them up enough to hold? was thinking like a permatex form a gasket or like. loc tite?
I got new screws, local shop had them, (not where it was at last, that guy has saw for 4 months and now this, so?/)
and last, when I took air filter off to see carb, the linkage for the throttle and choke came off, and I cannot find out how they go back on
looking at parts diagrams, I cannot even find one that shows the throtle linkage at all
I am not sure if I lost a part ror not, but where it goes through the cover to the trigget, what is supposed to be there??
I have a small clip that fills the slot, but do not see how it can hold the linkage in place
any and all help would be great
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the cover should keep the linkage in place if i am thinking right a lot of small huskys are like that. I guess you could try jb weld on the screws or put a small piece of plastic sliver in the hole with the screw. I would use a different carb. most quick fixes come back to bite you later on
BILL
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thanks for the speedy reply
I found a plactis piece that the linkage slips into between the handle and the trigger, guess it fell off and I didn't notice, found it , and got that figured out
put it backtogether then it stopped springing back, the return spring on the throttle flap shaft came off
so I ended up pulling the shaft out and re doing the spring
BUT I didn't notice the small notch on the flap or the hole in it, part number
502114401
502114401 THROTTLE FLAP
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Model-Diagram/HUSQVARNA/8574/728
would anyone know what position it has to be in to be correct?
I guess I should have paid better attention, but just didn't see it, my eyes don't work very well on small parts no more
and sine the screws are stripped, I don't want to have to keep taking apart and playing if I can help it
thanks, again
this was the part I lost but found, the plastic cap like part too in case anyone wants to see it!
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/throttle-push-rod-cpl-p-616489.html
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What screws are stripped the 2 that hold the carb on or the ones on the carb itself if it is the 2 that hold the carb on you really should change the intake. i have seen a lot of those stripped. if you pull the intake change the intake and impulse boot.I dout it will seal again i use a little dirko on the new ones
BILL
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thanks, its the 2 that hold teh carb to the intake
I melted some plactic and had it drip into the holes, seems to be holding tight, but plan to replace the intake, and will replace those parts too then while its apart!
I like to use new replacement parts when I can, always fell while its apart why not! as long as prices don't get nuys any how LOl
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Those are good saws but the intake and especialy the boot really sucks. They are usually fine till you take them off then it can be tough to get them sealed that is why i just go ahead and put a little dirko on them to start with
BILL
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Dont forget to replace the impulse pipe on these. http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1024
Replacement Impulse Pipe for Husqvarna models 36, 40, 41, 45, 49, 50, 51, 55, 55 Rancher. Jonsered 490, 590, 625, 630, 2036, 2040, 2041, 2045, 2050, 2054..
Replaces OEM 505 31 07-51 505310751
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thnaks, but for right now its running great, but I will be ordering all new parts and will get one of these too!
like I said, thsi sawe when it works, works very well, but its like every time I use it I never know if its going to run or not
been like a fix this, then that every time since new
was in husky dealers for about 16 months of time snce I have it, even had one dealer give it back to me saying they couldn't fix it! and it was just a yr old at the time
called husky up, and all they would do is tell me go some place else, even though it was an authorized dealer that claimed they couldn';t fix it!
rather fustrating when you pay for something that doesn't work right, and a constant one issue after another, and then having the repair folks screw it up even more
the first yr I had it IO tried to get Husky to either swap me a different same model, or even offered to up grade on my costs, and they plain out refused, saying, just keep taking it in for repairs as needed and they would cover(well only would cover costs for first yr)
but for now its running again ??
Thanks a bunch guys for the fast replys and help
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Cool, I like those saws! We have figured out a way to get gobs more get-up-and-squirt out of those little saws. If interested in how, let me know, I will post details when you are ready. Please listen to all the previous posts about intake boot/collar, impulse grommet, and replacing that crap piece of plastic the carb bolts to. You can also use an m4 brass threaded insert and drill out a new plastic piece so you never strip the plastic out again. The inserts are in the Husqvarna tools catalog or you can get them from McMaster Carr cheaper.
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Cool, I like those saws! We have figured out a way to get gobs more get-up-and-squirt out of those little saws.
tell me more please
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OK, if you are lucky enough to have a closed port saw, leave it alone. There aren't very many of those around.
What I do is get a Meteor 46mm closed port kit and also a Meteor Stihl 028S 46mm piston (3mm dome), both use a 10mm pin.
Measure the squish with the kit piston and no base gasket, should be around .0365. Then head to your gunsmith or a machine shop with both pistons. Stihl uses a narrower rod small end than Husqvarna. So some metal must be removed from the insides of the piston pin boss in order to fit the Husqvarna rod and provide for oiling of the small end. The easiest way to figure this out is to measure the kit piston and size the 028S piston to match.
So now the 028S piston fits the rod but is 1mm (.040) taller than the stock piston. Which leaves you with .0035 negative squish (not good) .0365-.040! I determine what squish I want and make a custom base gasket out of annealed copper shim stock. I go for .018-.022. Lastly ask your wife for an old tube of lipstick. Coat the dome of the 028 piston with it and put the saw back together, pull it through and pull the jug to make sure you have no lipstick on the head an the plug.
If all is well, put it together. Mine blow around 195PSI. If you have lipstick on the head or plug you increase base gasket thickness.
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thanks for the info, and suggestions on how to make more power, but I am not that big into working on things to under take that
I tend to just buy a bigger tool of I want more Hp
but sounds like a great idea if you have the time and skills
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thanks for the info
Didnt I meet you at one of my Racing GTG's a few years ago? Were held here in Ohio at Whispering Pines.
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Well if your asking me, that's a good question, I used to go down to oiho a bunch from 2000 till about 2011, and just haven't nade it down since, I meet tons of folks in my time spent down there, so, not sure if we meet, but could be possible
used to have a bunch of friends down there that did a lot of wood workings, from timber harvesting in Oh and WV, to a few guys that played alot with remotoe control things, mostly air planes however?
but who knows, my memory isn't what it used to be
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Well if your asking me, that's a good question,
If it's you, you had a few dozerdan PP ported saws with you. Cant remember your nickname off hand.
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Well then it wasn't me, don't own any ported saws, I mostly usd to be in Morgan Co. Ohio too
but hey never know without asking!