Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Homelite => Topic started by: Adirondackstihl on September 09, 2013, 02:12:30 pm
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Can anybody give any tips or advise on replacing the cylinder & piston on one of these bad boyz?
I've never torn into one, so I'm not sure what to expect or where to start?
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Be prepared to take apart a good bit of the saw in order to reach all 4 cylinder retaining nuts. Clear some space on the bench and be ready to deal with all the 'saw cake' that'll be in all the 'nooks and crannies' of the saw as you disassemble it.
Remove the flywheel cover, flywheel, and ignition bracket. Remove the carburetor, intake block, and carb box/rear handle casting (remember to disconnect the oil lines that attach to the manual oil pump in the rear handle casting). Remove the oil tank by disconnecting the lines and then removing the three screws that thread in from the area under where the flywheel sits. Here's the Homelite Service Manual:
http://www.mediafire.com/?300gk1fu7qmk3og
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Clear some space on the bench and be ready to deal with all the 'saw cake' that'll be in all the 'nooks and crannies' of the saw as you disassemble it.
She's a pretty clean specimen. Someone thought that these things should turn 14k and had the "H" speed jet WAYYY lean.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w84/stripper_album/photo.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/stripper_album/media/photo.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w84/stripper_album/image.jpeg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/stripper_album/media/image.jpeg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w84/stripper_album/image1.jpeg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/stripper_album/media/image1.jpeg.html)
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That is a clean one, and worthy of the time and expense of putting a replacement P/C in. You'll still be surprised by how much saw cake is hiding between the crankcase and the oil tank.:D
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I took it in on trade for doing a few muffler mods for a co-worker.
He told me it ran....not great....but it ran. He had no clue the shape the cylinder was in.
Once I showed him, he felt bad and gave me another saw on top of Old Blue.
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I have a shelf full of parts saws from that series. All with roached p/c's.....
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I had mentioned in the C5 thread that many of this design died on the vine of a burn out .I'm not sure if it's seal failures or just someone who had no idea how to tune a saw .
Matter of fact there are three Lombard Al-42 series (same design ) dead in boxes in my shed that were given to me and two I own with bad seals I just haven't taken the time to repair .
Now if it were I,I'd just put the thing in a box and wait it out .They made so many of those things that given enough time a donor will come along probabley as a freebie .
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I had mentioned in the C5 thread that many of this design died on the vine of a burn out .I'm not sure if it's seal failures or just someone who had no idea how to tune a saw .
Matter of fact there are three Lombard Al-42 series (same design ) dead in boxes in my shed that were given to me and two I own with bad seals I just haven't taken the time to repair .
Now if it were I,I'd just put the thing in a box and wait it out .They made so many of those things that given enough time a donor will come along probabley as a freebie .
Al I might have to trouble you to trade/sell one of those 'bad seal' Lombards (assuming you'd part with one with a good P/C) someday. Would like to have one at some point. That's low low priority however...
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Here is one I watched for sale for about the last month. ;)
It has sold now.
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I've got a Lombard Comango I tore down to re-seal the fuel tank.......about 3yrs ago. Still sittin in the tote.