Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: Rem6br on September 25, 2013, 07:51:29 pm
-
Hey all I'm new to the forum and have a question about my 009 saw. Somehow gas is getting in the oil tank could
A bad oil pump cause this? Just need advice on things to check before I do a complete tear down
Thanks
-
Actually it sounds more like a crankcase gasket which is a big job. The most fun will be those crank rollers on the rod.
I would drain and clean both tanks and air dry. Then fill the gas tank, and feel along the seam for moisture in the oil side, it will
probably be fairly obvious.
-
I agree with fish, also if you try and fix it your self stihl makes a special tool to hold the roller bearings on the rod for not much money. Can give you the part number if you would like.
-
You can pack some heavy wheel bearing grease around those rollers on the lower end of the rod to hold them in place?
For those that wonder what's going on here, the 009 only had one counter weight on the crank and the rod slid off and on the crank from one end after that side of the case was removed.
-
I thought that's what it probably was :( I have it tore down a pretty good way ,have to figure out the best way to remove
the flywheel. I have the crank nut loose just have to figure out how to pull it looks like not enough space to get the puller fingers behind the flywheel. Jason I could use the part # for the tool. Thanks for the help with my saw
-
Taking a flywheel off the "redneck way" without the official puller works better if there are two people.
One person holds a pry bar on each side while the other taps the nut threaded even on the shaft with a dead blow hammer.
It wouldn't hurt to have warmed the flywheel up around the hub area with a heat gun ahead of time?
Most of the Stihls used a blind sleeve with threads on the end to engage the threads in the hub of the flywheel to pull it off.
-
That's a way to do it on youtube more way's to do it
Like this also,
http://youtu.be/vz9CJbJWLOs
-
Just thread the flange nut down, but 1/2 turn from touching the flywheel.. Hold the flywheel with one hand, and set a socket on the nut, and rap it with a hammer, will pop right off.
-
Thanks for the info on the flywheel I will get back on the saw tomorrow after work. Have to find some gaskets now
-
I will get you the part number later today or tomorrow. I agree with fish the puller from stihl you thread on and hit the end with a hammer. I always try and support the clutch side of the crank to prevent any side ward movement. Don't think it is necessary put good practice. Not much on prying on things something usually ends up broken or bloody. Also you can give it a pretty good hit to break the tapered seat.
-
The part # 1120 893 9100. They call it a clamp.
-
Thanks Jason
-
Well got it all tore down and the gasket looked good so after further inspection found the case is ****
At the case screw that's between the fuel and oil tanks. Sounds like its time for some belzona to repair it
-
Anyone have the torque values for the crankcase and cylinder head?
Thanks
-
Service Manual sent.
-
Thanks
-
I dont know about 009, but I just hand tighten things tight. No torque wrench used.
-
I'm ready to put the case back together and need to know what type of sealant if any is used on the crankcase gasket?
Thanks
-
Stihl uses a pre form gasket. They also have a gasket set that has all the oil pump gaskets, reed valve,carb and exhaust gasket plus crankcase gasket and oil seals. Part #1120 007 1062. You can also use a cereal box and make your own, just a little more time consuming.
-
Thanks I have the gaskets just needing to know what type of sealant if any to use on the crankcase gasket
-
Just use some heavy grease
-
Did you make out okay, is it running.
-
Well I tore it down and found a crack at the screw boss that's between the fuel and oil tanks. I repaired the crack
put on a new gasket and it still leaked but not at the screw boss. The case halves did not mate together true so one side is somehow warped slightly. I had another saw for parts and I used the case from it went ahead and installed the
crank and rod and assembled the case halves together filled it with fuel and let it set for about 4 hours or so and no leaks. Ordered new crank seals and a genuine stihl top end kit with two groove piston. Got the seals today and still
waiting on the top end kit. I'll let you guys know how it runs when I get it complete. Thanks again for all the help
so far on my little 009 soon to be a 009L
-
Received the top end kit today and was wondering what to lube the piston and cylinder with for assembly?
I was thinking just use a quality 2 stroke oil what do you guys do
-
2 stroke oil will be fie
-
Well guys thanks for the help with the saw she's running like a new one. 8) Here's what all I did to it
I replaced the crank seals,all gaskets,new piston and rings,new cylinder,rebuilt oil pump,rebuilt carb
New bar and yellow chain because I hate safety chains. The carb may still need some fine tuning because
while idling sometimes it will die but starts right back up. I will post a pic of it in a little bit
-
I hope it serves you well