Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Homelite => Topic started by: leec on September 26, 2013, 02:22:07 pm
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I believe this to be the Canadian version of the 360. Anyway, I got it refreshed with the help of the tuneup kit from Chainsawr which included everything I needed including the intake boot. Got it running pretty well. P&C looked really good. My problem is the bar and chain, In putting the B&C that came with the unit back on the chain is clamped by the bar plates so that it won't move. I'm pretty sure the plates are on the correct way. The Acres site states that this unit should run a .325 chain but that's not what came on it.
It may be that the B&C weren't right as the saw was a non-runner when I got it. I have tried a couple of different Homelite and other bars but to no avail.
Any thought welcome
Regards,
Lee
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The 35 is actually the first of the 35/350/360 series. The 35SL is a 35 with a chain brake. SL signifies a chainbrake on these saws. Same with the 350SL and 360SL.
Measure your bar studs. Are they 3/8" (9.5mm) or 5/16" (8.2mm)? IIRC some saws of this series used the Oregon D096/D196/Windsor UXL mount (as used on the SXL-AO), while others used the K095 'small Husky' mount as used on XL76-130 and E-Z/Super E-Z/XL-1/XL-Mini/Super Mini/etc Homelite saws.
Can you post a pic of the bar mount area of the saw with the inner bar plate and bar on the studs?
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Acres has the 35sl introduced in 1991 and the 350/360 in1976 but perhaps they are wrong. However it also states plastic injection molding the construction??
Lee
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The Acres listing is messed up.
-Injection molded plastic construction
-1991
-Walbro WA/WT carb
Sounds more like the 290-340 series to me...
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Hi Aaron,
Bar studs are 5/16 and do have the "S" spacer. I have tried several Homelite (one off an Super mini) bars including the one that came with it. The sprocket spins freely before the clutch cover goes on. The clutch cover looks alright although you have to push the chain brake handle a long way forward before it engages.
I took pics but they were too large to load.
Also I seem to have picked up a problem from AS. Whenever I go to the site I'm instantly taken to other sites trying to sell me stuff. Even after running anti virus and malware software. And even on a freshly downloaded copy of Chrome?
Bummer AS is one of my favourite sites.
Regards,
Lee
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If you're running Chrome, disable javascript (in your settings). Same thing if you're surfing from an android phone. If you're running internet explorer, click 'tools', 'security' 'custom' and then scroll through the custom list. Disable scripting/auto scripting, click 'OK', and then click 'OK' again. THEN you should be able to go to AS without the linkbucks BS. It's a little clunky, but works well enough to get caught up a bit and check PM's.
Do another malware scan, as the linkbucks thing put 8 bugs on my computer. Others have reported the same...
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If you're running Chrome, disable javascript (in your settings). Same thing if you're surfing from an android phone. If you're running internet explorer, click 'tools', 'security' 'custom' and then scroll through the custom list. Disable scripting/auto scripting, click 'OK', and then click 'OK' again. THEN you should be able to go to AS without the linkbucks BS. It's a little clunky, but works well enough to get caught up a bit and check PM's.
Do another malware scan, as the linkbucks thing put 8 bugs on my computer. Others have reported the same...
Hi Aaron,
Do you happen to know how to fix Firefox. I couldn't find a place to switch off Java. The link bucks is now affecting the computer at work whick was free of it yesterday.
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noscript for firefox. Works great and was passed onto me by 660mag Only need it for AS. I disable 99% of the time and enable only when going to infected AS.
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noscript for firefox. Works great and was passed onto me by 660mag Only need it for AS. I disable 99% of the time and enable only when going to infected AS.
Sadly I'm a regular Firefox user and mine is infected. I have modified Chrome and IE and you can get in to AS but you can't login so you can't see most pics or respond and make entries. Real bummer!
Lee
PS no matter how I try to fit the bar and chain, once I tighten up the bar nuts the chain won't move. Maybe the chain brake is faulty or mal-adjusted?
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noscript for firefox. Works great and was passed onto me by 660mag Only need it for AS. I disable 99% of the time and enable only when going to infected AS.
Sadly I'm a regular Firefox user and mine is infected. I have modified Chrome and IE and you can get in to AS but you can't login so you can't see most pics or respond and make entries. Real bummer!
Lee
PS no matter how I try to fit the bar and chain, once I tighten up the bar nuts the chain won't move. Maybe the chain brake is faulty or mal-adjusted?
I figured how to log in with IE. The login box in the top/right corner does nothing (with javascript disabled). However, you can 'trick' the browser into giving you a login box that does work. Go to a thread, and then click 'reply'. The board will tell you that you can't post unless logged in and will give you a login box in the center of the screen. Log in (be sure to click 'remember me') and you'll be good to go.
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noscript for firefox. Works great and was passed onto me by 660mag Only need it for AS. I disable 99% of the time and enable only when going to infected AS.
Sadly I'm a regular Firefox user and mine is infected. I have modified Chrome and IE and you can get in to AS but you can't login so you can't see most pics or respond and make entries. Real bummer!
Lee
PS no matter how I try to fit the bar and chain, once I tighten up the bar nuts the chain won't move. Maybe the chain brake is faulty or mal-adjusted?
I figured how to log in with IE. The login box in the top/right corner does nothing (with javascript disabled). However, you can 'trick' the browser into giving you a login box that does work. Go to a thread, and then click 'reply'. The board will tell you that you can't post unless logged in and will give you a login box in the center of the screen. Log in (be sure to click 'remember me') and you'll be good to go.
Hi Aaron,
I finally managed to get a B&C mounted on my 35. It is one off an old Super EZ or XL AO. The bar needs a good filing to bring it back to acceptable standard and somehow I managed to find a very nice Stihl chain for it so should cut very well.
I can now log in to AS but can't contribute or respond, anyway making progress
Regards,
Lee
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Glad to hear you got a B/C on it. AS has had a "we're working on the site, try again in 25 minutes" message for the last 3 or 4 hours at least. Hopefully they'll fix it...
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Glad to hear you got a B/C on it. AS has had a "we're working on the site, try again in 25 minutes" message for the last 3 or 4 hours at least. Hopefully they'll fix it...
Hi Aaron,
So the 35 starts but won't stay running. H&L set at 1 turn out and have fiddled with that some but even when revving it will stop after 15-20 seconds like it's not getting enough fuel, or maybe too much! With the saw on cardboard on the floor it is making a blackish wet spot under the muffler. New lines, new filter, new intake boot and new carb kit (all from chainsawr)
But still havin' Fun
Lee
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Glad to hear you got a B/C on it. AS has had a "we're working on the site, try again in 25 minutes" message for the last 3 or 4 hours at least. Hopefully they'll fix it...
Hi Aaron,
So the 35 starts but won't stay running. H&L set at 1 turn out and have fiddled with that some but even when revving it will stop after 15-20 seconds like it's not getting enough fuel, or maybe too much! With the saw on cardboard on the floor it is making a blackish wet spot under the muffler. New lines, new filter, new intake boot and new carb kit (all from chainsawr)
But still havin' Fun
Lee
Hiya Lee,
You're getting closer. Did you replace the impulse line along with the others? If so, did you use transparent Tygon type line, or black rubber? Tygon type vinyl line won't hold up in an impulse line application.
Also.............................the fuel starving problem could be due to a bad fuel tank cap duckbill valve. Over time, they melt and can clog things up. Try starting it and then loosening the fuel cap a turn or so before it dies. See if it then stays running. If that's it, you'll need to clean out what's left of the old duckbill and install a new one. It's easy and cheap.
Fuel starvation could also come from not having the carburetor pump side gasket and diaphragm in the right order. Starting from the pump side of the carb body, you put the diaphragm on first and then the gasket. Reversed, it'll run.............but not well.
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Thanks for the feedback,
Yes black impulse line. I'll pull the carb and check all the gaskets and diaphrams as well as the metering lever. I haven't checked the duckbill yet either. Will try with gas cap loose. At least it's nice to hear it start!
Lee
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The 35 is actually the first of the 35/350/360 series. The 35SL is a 35 with a chain brake. SL signifies a chainbrake on these saws. Same with the 350SL and 360SL.
Measure your bar studs. Are they 3/8" (9.5mm) or 5/16" (8.2mm)? IIRC some saws of this series used the Oregon D096/D196/Windsor UXL mount (as used on the SXL-AO), while others used the K095 'small Husky' mount as used on XL76-130 and E-Z/Super E-Z/XL-1/XL-Mini/Super Mini/etc Homelite saws.
Can you post a pic of the bar mount area of the saw with the inner bar plate and bar on the studs?
Looking at the UT numbers, the 35sl is the highest. Might that indicate that the 35 is the latest model?
Lee