Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: KilliansRedLeo on September 27, 2013, 09:17:02 am
-
On another site I did a tutorial on the factory method and tools to do this. If anyone is interested, I will reconstruct it.
-
This is a chainsaw repair site so I can not think of a better place to post your tutorial?
-
Most definately, thanks for the offer.
-
OK, the next tutorial will be this one.
The idea is to take a 372 bottom end that is in need of bearings, seals etc and demonstrate how to use the Husqvarna factory tools recommended for this maintainence. There are techniques and factory supplied tools that the factory recommends for doing the work. We will actually do the work and demonstrate the tools as well as explain what the tools are actually doing for you.
Will not be complete teardown of the saw, we will start with an already stripped down saw, split the cases, remove the old bearings and seals, install new bearings and seals as well as reinstall and center the crank.
-
Im looking forward to see how its done right. First off, the 372 is my bottom end ;D, next, I'm tired of doing bearings the redneck way ::)
-
No Problem alsled, it is my pleasure! I get the subject for a tutorial and you get a rebuilt 372XP bottom end. Now all you need is a Hyway 372XP 52mm BB kit and a Stihl 064 piston and you will have quite the runner! A 52mm 272XP piston will also work but you will have to send it out to have the squish band cut, $40 from Mastermind, and you could hit 0.020 on the squish without a base gasket!
-
I have a 365 with a BB kit, I wana see hoe the 372 runs. I'm sticking a Meteor piston in it, and no base gasket, and muffler port
-
I guess the OP never got back to it? Whats the other site w/ the tutorial?
-
I dont know why he didnt finish up the thread here using the right tools?
There is other threads here on redneck methods me and others use too.
-
I have not yet gotten to do the thread because I have not yet come across a 372 saw in need of bottom end work. I did a quickie on FHC just to show the tool and how it works. If anyone has a 365/371/372 that needs bearings and wants it done PM me. I will do the work, supply new bearings/seals/gaskets for your saw just to do the tutorial. You pay shipping both ways. I only need the bottom end not the complete saw.
-
David Young is a member here with that 362.
-
I sent TNTBlaster a message, I'll send one to David Young also. Thanks Kevin!
-
expect a tutorial here in the next week. ;D
in case you haven't seen here is the victim.
Failure caught on video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qstxPOfi8k&list=UUpS_xbeHHNESX8fJgKk9JDw
the results
http://s194.photobucket.com/user/joeking_photo/library/362xp?sort=3&page=1
-
Gnarly! What failed?
Adam
-
Cannot get the Photoshop link to work?
-
Gnarly! What failed?
Adam
i guessed crank bearing
another guess was the plating let go shifting the ring and the ring popped through the crown at the locator pin.
what do you think?
David
-
It's a mess
(http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z158/joeking_photo/362xp/IMG_4214.jpg) (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/joeking_photo/media/362xp/IMG_4214.jpg.html)
-
It's a mess
(http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z158/joeking_photo/362xp/IMG_4214.jpg) (http://s194.photobucket.com/user/joeking_photo/media/362xp/IMG_4214.jpg.html)
thank you
that gray stuff is from aluminum, it is what you get when you try to polish aluminum, there was a lot of it.
if you look on the piston you can still see the machine marks, fairly low hours.
-
Are you sure the rod big end bearing on the crank did not fail? Grab the rod and check for up-down play at the big end of the rod. If any noticeable play, and you are looking at a new crank, OEM only, none of that Chinese stuff!
Usually when a crankcase main bearing fails the counter weights will contact the case, rubbing it raw, check for that also. Use bright light and dentist's mirror.
-
Seen the big end go out on a good bit here. Check her out David. I only used new oem kits or used good.
Some folks say they have had good luck with some of the aftermarket ones, but I was scared to do it for a saw I would evidently sell down the road. If I had kept them I might have tried one.
-
+1 on what Kevin said above! Check it out!
-
Seen the big end go out on a good bit here. Check her out David. I only used new oem kits or used good.
Some folks say they have had good luck with some of the aftermarket ones, but I was scared to do it for a saw I would evidently sell down the road. If I had kept them I might have tried one.
I hear ya,
if I ever did let a saw with afm parts out of my hands, I feel ok as long as I disclose what parts are used.
Crank well too much can go wrong. I don't know if I would try it.
-
Looks like the ring caught something on the intake side, odd unless it has finger ports?
-
There is also a chance that the locating pin in the ring groove backed out since I cannot see it in the picture. Spoke to David last evening, he believes that the big end bearings let go. More up/down play than in other saw bottom ends he has. He is sending the case and crank to me to be replaced. I'll put up some pics when it arrives.
-
I may have a bad big end crank paper weight in the barn if anyone needs to view till then.